Need help with recently bought Busa.

go through and double check everything you disconnected. I'm sure it will be something stupid that got overlooked.
 
I would disconnect the battery(no guarantees but won't hurt). So, is the FI light on? And off topic Welcometoblueguages.com these guys can fix your guages/odometer, cheap and fast.
 
RandyEicher said:
FI light...... light bar on the left side of the face?
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You're burning my brain:laugh:...been awhile since I looked at a gen1 (I have gen2).
Small light, bottom left(I think left), continueously flashing while the key is ON, bike doesn't have to be running but can be. There should be no lights lit on the guages with key on, bike running, so that's probably the one.
There is a white plug under the driver seat, it has a cap on it, nothing plugs into it from the bike. Use a piece of wire or paperclip to jump 2 of the wires, red/white and black/white(this is safe and will not harm anything) this is commonly called dealer mode. Again key must be on, and doesn't matter if bike is running. This will cause a code to appear in the lcd display on the dash, always the letter "C" followed by a 2 digit number. This is the trouble code, these can be referenced on this site also. If you have no problems you will get C00 displayed.
The picture shows the plug with the cap on, but it's just easier to remove it to access the pins.

wire%20jump.JPG
 
If you post your location there may be a member close by that can help you in person too. Some of these folks have been known to be so good as to swap there ecu's into others bikes just to rule out problems(like maybe someone flashed yours). Never hurts to ask.
 
RandyEicher said:
I am in Bellefontaine, Ohio. Any members near here?
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There are quite a few in Ohio, and on here at all different times. If you haven't heard anything else by tommorrow, just come back and say "bump" or "anyone?". That'll get your thread back in the new posts and more eyes on it. Hopefully it's just something stupid and an easy fix once you find it(and these problems are the worst kind:laugh:) Sorry I couldn't help, and good luck. Someone here has the answer!
 
THANKS. The real crapper is, that I was able to ride it. It just wasn't running real smooth. I could've sworn that the fuel mixture was off since the guy before me had open canisters on it. He put the stock pipes back on to sell it.
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Haha, I have two aunts and their families that live in Bellefontaine, Ohio. Quaint and quiet little town. Problem is, you're 3 hours from me, as I'm in Cleveland. Sheeeet, if it was warm and not raining, I'd be on the road right now! OH-4 is a drag strip, nothing on that road but road. Other than the rain, my Yoshi's are still cut and gutted waiting for fiberglass packing and rivets. Wanna come over and help me? Gotta take the lady to lunch/dinner and art museum anyway.

Every time I say "rivet", I feel like I'm mocking a frog.
 
sixpack577 said:
You're burning my brain:laugh:...been awhile since I looked at a gen1 (I have gen2).
Small light, bottom left(I think left), continueously flashing while the key is ON, bike doesn't have to be running but can be. There should be no lights lit on the guages with key on, bike running, so that's probably the one.
There is a white plug under the driver seat, it has a cap on it, nothing plugs into it from the bike. Use a piece of wire or paperclip to jump 2 of the wires, red/white and black/white(this is safe and will not harm anything) this is commonly called dealer mode. Again key must be on, and doesn't matter if bike is running. This will cause a code to appear in the lcd display on the dash, always the letter "C" followed by a 2 digit number. This is the trouble code, these can be referenced on this site also. If you have no problems you will get C00 displayed.
The picture shows the plug with the cap on, but it's just easier to remove it to access the pins.
Click to expand...
Ok. I jumped the wires, code was C00... Damn. Just to be thorough, I checked it with and without the PC3 hooked up. Same result.
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Update... I replaced the plugs and it fired right up. I was told that I do need to keep the PC3 on it due to the airbox mod, even though I still have stock pipes. Does anyone have a map for this exact set up? And thanks for the input.
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You are about 3+ hours from me. If the weather was better i would ride up and help you.

Do you have the USB cable for the PC3? Do you have the Power Commander PC3 software?
Here is the link to the control software: Welcome to Power Commander Motorcycle Fuel Injection Tuning Module

Then you can put in make, model and year to see the maps they have to download. They are pretty generic and none of them are for a bike with the airbox mod. BUT..you can try different maps and see if you get close. Also there is installation info to download to help you out.

Only other way to get your bike perfect for your set up is to have it Dyno-tuned by a pro.
 
Why let a PC3 go unused? Get the exhausts you want on it and spend the money, get it tuned perfect, and not have any issues......you'll thank me! JMO
 
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