Need help

Pipefighter248

Donating Member
I know this needs to be in Random thoughts, but know it will get viewed more in this forum.
Vehicle is a 97 Chevy Blazer 4.3 v6 4WD.
It took me 5 min of the key being in the on position before it would start this morning and once leaving it died on me 4 times before I could get it turned around and back home.
Whenever you first turn the key on a few of the lights on the gauges will come on, radio and lights work. But it will not start. Engine will turn.
Random amount of time later, the instrument warning lights come on like normal and you can hear the fuel pump. It will finally start. Driving down the road it will just die for no apparent reason.
I am stumped on this one.
Altenator seems to be good and the battery was replaced roughly 8 months ago. Pos. battery cable was replaced to the startor 2 weeks ago. I have checked the connections off the pos batt cable and all seem fine.
Please help and advise.
 
Is the starter working normally, or is itintermittent?

Do you hear the fuel pump come on EACH time you turn on the key?

When is the last time the fuel filter was changed?

If it's not the starter, then you might be looking at a bad fuel pump. I had one start going out on the '90 Chevy pick-up I had, and it was doing the same thing, except it never died on the road. Just sluggish, sputtered during accelleration, and a pain in the butt to start sometimes.

Good Luck
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Starter works fine whenever the gauges are lite.
Fuel pump will work once a few seconds to minutes after the key is turned on. But will not "prime" until the warning lights on the dash illuminate.
Fuel filter was changed about 2 weeks ago.
I have had the charging system checked at autozone. But might take the batt. out and take it elsewhere to get a load test on it.

I honestly feel it is some type of electrical gremlin. Since it takes a while for the engine, air bag, and other insturment lights to come on.
 
After researching on a Blazer forum, it looks like the majority blame it on the ignition switch, which is supposed to be faulty on the 97's.
Guess I'm off to pull the dash.
Sounds like fun.
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What happens when you turn the headlights on during the initial problem? If they are nice and bright and the dashlight instrauments are dim, it could be the ignition switch. Do they drop out when you try to start it? If so, it is unlikely the problem is in the battery or charging system unless you have to “jump itâ€￾ using booster cables from another vehicle. You have a bad connection/ high resistance area. While the lights are dim, it is at a high resistance building heat and dropping voltage. It basically welds itself and expands making a better connection allow it to start and operate correctly. When it cools, you are back to the same problem.

Since you just replaced the + battery cable, I'd look it over again. Side post GM batteries are really bad about building up hidden corrosion. The cable you have may not have been terminated correctly as well. Turn on the head lights, form what you are saying they should be dead or dim and then start working. While they are not working correctly move/tighten the connections. On a GM the starter end of the positive cable connects to the post on the solenoid. The 10/12 gauge wire coming from the same post supplies the power to the entire electrical system. Make sure it was not damaged. There is a fuse link in line with this wire somewhere, but I doubt it is causing the problem. It is almost impossible for it to fix itself. Be sure to look at its terminal where it bolts to the solenoid post. A possible indicator is a place where it is very warm with the key turned on during the initial couple of minutes. Try it with the headlights on as well.

Another good place to look is the – cable. You replaced the positive cable. What was the matter with it? The – cable has been on as long and suffered from the same exposure as the + cable. It could be damaged as well.

Also be very careful of what you buy as replacement cables. Like everything else you get what you pay for. Ost of the stuff you see hanging on the wall in a clear skin pack from the Autozone, Oreilly, PepPoy stores are junk. They are usually only 6 gauge and less than the quality of the original. The same stores usually have a higher grade for 2-3 times the price behind the counter. If not they can get it. Stick with names like Whittaker, Beldon, Delco, and BorgWarner. Hold the two in your hand and you can see the difference in quality. Stop your next problem before it happens.
 
After researching on a Blazer forum, it looks like the majority blame it on the ignition switch, which is supposed to be faulty on the 97's.
Guess I'm off to pull the dash.
Sounds like fun.
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Hmmm.... if it is the switch, you should only need to remove the lower cover near the steering column. There is a yoke that holds the column to the dash. Pull those two bolts and allow the column to drop down 4-7inches. You then should be able to reach the switch and unbolt it.
 
Thank you for the lengthy reply Professor.
The pos. cable was replaced because it was corroded some and the gm dealer said to replace it before they would diagnoss it.
So I replaced it and decided to not let them get anymore of my money.
The blazer message board and a local garage shop said they heard of a faulty ignition switch in the 97 blazers and comparing what is happening with what is said on the boards it looks like it is the switch.
I have checked all connections that is possible including on the starter and all seem to be tight and good.
The cable was replaced with the cheap autozone 4 ga. cable. I went with a little more heavy duty gauage with the stock being what looks like 6 ga.
All accesories work when you first turn the key on, but it takes time for the fuel pump to prime.
 
ok .. I'll go in the " other direction " jsut cause I've found this to happen a few times. ... 1. do you have a ..large amount of Keys hangin on your keychain ..? if so.. sounds like you wore out Ignition ..like I said I've had to change a few. Ign (turnkey) becasue of this.. and the Oddity of it.. its always a "GM " product ..as in ( Chevy) .
 
it will not start. Engine will turn.
ooops missed that part.

Switch is possible, other two things that come to mind is the fuel pump itself and the safety switch.

Put a meter on the power wire going to the fuel pump. Find a GM manual for the correct color. See if it is getting 12 volts initially.

I've see a few pumps go out showing these symptoms. There is a fuel pressure port on the manifold to look at the pressure. Put a gauge on it and see if the pressure ever comes up to the minimum standard. Most of the time when the pump is failing, it can come up with enough pressure to run, but is still way under the minimum requirements.
 
Im gonna go with fuel pump. You should hear it every time you turn the key, not just after turning the key a couple of times.
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ok .. I'll go in the " other direction " jsut cause I've found this to happen a few times. ... 1. do you have a  ..large amount of  Keys hangin on your  keychain ..? if  so.. sounds like you  wore out Ignition ..like I said  I've had  to  change a few. Ign (turnkey) becasue of  this.. and the  Oddity of it.. its  always a "GM " product ..as in   (  Chevy) .
All that I have on my keychain is my remote entry, ign. key, masterlock key for work, and one of those disconnects.
On the other end of the disconnect is another story. Bunch of keys.
I always disconnect before putting the ign. key in.
 
it will not start. Engine will turn.
ooops missed that part.

Switch is possible, other two things that come to mind is the fuel pump itself and the safety switch.

Put a meter on the power wire going to the fuel pump. Find a GM manual for the correct color. See if it is getting 12 volts initially.

I've see a few pumps go out showing these symptoms. There is a fuel pressure port on the manifold to look at the pressure. Put a gauge on it and see if the pressure ever comes up to the minimum standard. Most of the time when the pump is failing, it can come up with enough pressure to run, but is still way under the minimum requirements.
Almost always starts, but takes a few seconds for the pump to kick on.
 
After replacing the ignition switch and hooking everything back up; it fired right up with no delay.
I will be sure to keep an eye out and if it does it again check some of the info above.
I guess that the blazer message board was right about 97's having faulty ignition switches.
Problem taken care of for now.
Thanks everyone.
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Glad you got it fixed
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My 90 p/u had a fuel pump going out at the same time as the ECM. I had all the factory manuals and still didn't find it. I did manage to drop a bunch of money on stuff that the ECM was telling me was bad, but wasn't. Glad your deal worked out a lot faster.
 
Glad you got it fixed
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My 90 p/u had a fuel pump going out at the same time as the ECM.  I had all the factory manuals and still didn't find it.  I did manage to drop a bunch of money on stuff that the ECM was telling me was bad, but wasn't.  Glad your deal worked out a lot faster.
Yeah stinks with all the electronics on stuff nowadays.
This has been going on for about 2+ months. Was getting fed up with it.
Hope that it will take care of it for a while.
Thanks.
 
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