Need some help here please....

[Rollin20z]

Ok, I had posted this in busa problems and didn't get much response I guess because there isn't as much traffic thru there as here. Did just see one response and I will check into that here shortly.

But my problem is with a 08 with clutch slippage. Originally started out thinking plates were worn and also from opinions of others thinking it was the same. Funny thing is that it just started happening all of a sudden, no leading up to it with gradual slipping just bang straight to the punch. Well, ordered brand new OEM frictions & steels and replaced them. Took out for test ride all seemed fine at first and then I guess it got warmed up to good temp and started same thing again. Under advise of others pulled it down again took measurements of stackheights(old & new discs) ended up with new discs stackheight is shoter than old discs. Around 1.9820 on old compared to 1.9720 on new discs??? New fibers are .002 thinner than old ones and the 2 thick steels are .001 thinner, others are fine. So under some more advice from a couple people I tried replacing one of the new thinner friction plates with the old outer friction from old stack with is thicker under the assumption it would build up the stack height thicker than old height which in theory would bring it back up to or above original height. In turn may end up with a little less clutch room between engaging and disengaging but should fix the slipping problem right?

Anyhow pulled it all back apart rechecked and replaced a thin with the thicker plate, everything has been re bled put back together and out we go again to see if it worked. Well it seemed to take a littler longer this time but she is back to the same scenario. Once up to temp if you go up thru the gears easy it'll seem to be ok, but if you go to give it any throttle she will just spin up the rpm's and it acts just like your spinning the rear tire trying to get the power to the road which it evidentally isn't that. Even if you roll on it more gradual it will still slip but just not as drastic.

I went out and took this quick little vid(sorry for the buzzing as I just hard mounted it to tank) and you can clearly see it doesn't matter what gear you are in it will slip away if any additional throttle is applied. I'm scratching my head dumbfounded here. Anyone?? I know there has to be someone else on here that has experienced this problem and has to know what is going on here. lease:

 

[SKECHE]

yes i had this experience, i thought it was the clutch, instead it was the clutch lever not letting out the push rod, it kept the clutch ingauged.

 

[StrtRac3r]

Yea sticky piston in the clutch cylinder would be unexpected, but easy to check out. I can't really think of anything for ya. But if the piston stuck you would feel lever play. Does it do this when you quickshift w/o using the clutch?

 

[SKECHE]

number 4 was getting sticky, so i clean it out really well and it worked fine...good luck.

 

[Rollin20z]

Yeah, lever seems to feel ok. And it doesn't matter clutch or clutchless shifting it still slips the same.

 

[Rollin20z]

number 4 was getting sticky, so i clean it out really well and it worked fine...good luck.

It feels just like your feathering the clutch to wheelie it up. BUT, it doesn't do it when cold only when it gets warmed up good. Would that still do it?

 

[StrtRac3r]

May be a dumb question but my mechanic skills are more centered around cars than motorcycles. Have you done anything different with the oil? Or checked the oil for dreaded particulates? I'll ask some buddies for more advise but everything I can think of would lock the clutch up.

 

[Rollin20z]

May be a dumb question but my mechanic skills are more centered around cars than motorcycles. Have you done anything different with the oil? Or checked the oil for dreaded particulates? I'll ask some buddies for more advise but everything I can think of would lock the clutch up.

Nothing at all. Oil had maybe 1000 miles on it when it started, and oil looks clean when I drain it out as I'm doing all my clutch removal pratices

 

[StrtRac3r]

I read the clutch can be adjusted too tight with not enough end play... Not sure on how to adjust, I've never dug that deep.

 

[StrtRac3r]

Lol didn't think of the fact you have already done more than once...

 

[JINKSTER]

just a heads up here and rather elementry these days so please dont take offense but...the oil you put in the engine doesnt say "Energy Conserving" in the bottom 1/2 ring of the api symbol does it?..cause if it does?..that oil had waaaay to much friction fighting additives to be healthy for a wet clutch.

 

[smv busa]

First change the oil to mobil 1, if that doesn't work take the clutch basket out and check it something might be broken and you can't see it

 

[StrtRac3r]

Is that oil additive that's kinda like solvent ok for the wet clutch? If so I can't remember the name but it's in a grey bottle at most autoshops and I would run that (not riding of course) drain the oil, check the basket for damage, check spring tension, throw approved oil in, and hope for the best. or spend that same 50+$ at a shop for diag.

 

[JINKSTER]

im also wondering since he said it lasted longer with the thicker plate/stack if it's possible that his springs weakened..this could especially be the case if his piston arm stuck keeping the springs compressed for a length of time.

 

[POWERHOUSE]

How about checking to see if your clutch master is overfilled, or close to the top? If it is, take some fluid out until you can see the level is half-way on the window . . . overfilling the master would cause the same problem, which would get even worse as things heat up . . .

 

[Rollin20z]

Well after more tinkering ,cussing and not having any idea what could be doing it, so I figured let start at the beginning AGAIN..

Skeche got me wondering about the pushrod in the cylinder deal, even though I had already been thru the lever scenario with Daniel Cloud9 inreference to the brass bushing maybe not being seated and all looked good. And being i have ASV levers and they break away backwards it made them seem as is all was good. Anyway after going thru them again if you notice the 2 small screws which mount the spacer block on the back of the levers which I assume adjust the mount per specific bike, well 1 of those was backed out maybe a couple threads which in turn was touching on perch before the block and in turn holding just enough pressure on the rod evidentally to help cause all of this. I will also say I took off the ASV and put a Pazzo on it just to double check and do notice the rod looks to be sticking just a bit right at the very end of the stroke so i guess I'll pull and clean up the cylinder while I'm at it.

So after a couple weeks down for the Gen2 ,$300 for new clutches,$5k in labor(my hourly rates are he ll) it looks like it all comes down to a .10 screw not being locktited from factory on a lever. Well anyhow before all this I have never messed with changing a clutch, NOW I am pretty sure I can do it blind folded beginning to end.


Only thing I am contemplating now is taking out all new stuff and replacing with old since it was fine before all this came up and save new stuff since it's the same in Gen 1 & 2. besides I have to at least pull the thick plate I put in in place of a thin because as of now with the thick one in there is really no free play in clutch at all.

I really appreciate all the input as up until now I and also a couple others were stumped, funny how just getting some others input and you can rethink and recheck something just a bit different than you already have and find something so simple.

Thanks

 

[Big E]

Glad yo hear you got it figured out.

 

[mr8ball]

Glad to here you go it