NEED SOME HELP/INPUT

[bigjohn141]

Ok, I was thinking about trying to rig something up so my pass switch would turn my HID light on and off. To do this I will need a common relay (no problem there) and a switch that is cycled by a short 12v current. By this I mean, apply 12v and it turns the switch on and closes the relay and apply 12v again to turn the switch off and open the relay. Does anyone know of a switch like this or possibly a relay that with activate in the same manner without the switch? Any help, suggestions, or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
John

 

[bigjohn141]

Ok, I found what i need, the only problem is that it isnt cheap. In order to do this you must have a Momentary-to-Toggle relay, also known as a latch relay. These thing run around $100 everywhere on the net. If anyone has a place to get these at wholesale or a better price, please pm me or reply to this thread.

 

[ICEMANN]

you can make your own latching relay with two 12v bostch relays if I remember correctly.... It would be easer just to add the circuit to your "turn signal cancelling" button.. Push to turn off your turn signals. Hold to turn on lights etc. Or just spend $5.00 worth of radio shack stuff and add a toggle to your right hand switch assembly.

JD

 

[Rhythm]

Is the passing switch a momentary or a constant switch ? If its a constant, all you will need is a Bosch relay that can be purchased from Rat Shack . Just connect the positive and negative wires coming from your passing switch housing  to the remote inputs (coil side) on the relay. Once thats done, you will have to bridge together (connect) the hot wire on the low beam plug to the input side of the relay, next  bridge (connect) the HID to the output side of the relay. Once that has been done connect the HID and Low beam ground wires together.

Thats it !

 

[bigjohn141]

Rythem, the passing switch is momentary. ICE do you have a diagram of how to wire the two relays or is there a post somewhere? I am going to try a search for it, hopefully I will find something. I may end up just using a toggle switch. The passing switch is there and I never use it anyway, so I would like to try to get some use out of it. Thanks for the imput guys.

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[Rhythm]

Thats fine ! Only thing you need to do is  bypass the momentary switch with a weather proof toogle switch like JD has shown above. Then do exactly what I what I said earlier.  

I purchased my weather proof boot and a on and off type toggle switch from a local Ace Hardware store. Only because Rat Shack no longer sells the weather proof boot covers.

Also you will have to make a L bracket or modify a piece of metal to hold your toggle switch that will  be mounted  to a bolt on the clip on..  
I would post a photo of my setup but my camera battery is currently dead.  I'll post a photo of how I mounted mine later on today.



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[bigjohn141]

Thanks Rythym. I think I am going to try to get this passing switch idea to fly before going with a toggle switch. I believe I have found a relay like I need for around $25, I just have to call later to get the dimisions. One more question though, How much current do these things draw? The relay I have found is a 16amp @ 120v so I think it should do the trick. If everything works out ok i will post it up incase someone else wants to go with it.

 

[Rhythm]

I dont know off hand. Just take a lQQk at your fuse box to find out what the amp draw is .

 

[Bronto]

Describing the operation of a Bistable Flip Flop.
Two versions of a Bistable Flip Flop
Transistor version scroll down to Bistable Flip Flop.
IC version scroll down to 555/556 BiStable.

Wire the +12 to the circuit to the headlights dim. Not familar with the pass switch. If it runs a relay or directly to bright lights.
A small nuisance will occure not isolating the brights voltage. Not only with the BiStable Flip flop operate when pressing the passing light. It will also operate each time the brights are turned on.
To isolate a passing switch that directly connects to the brights. A heavy duty 20-30 amp Diode is spliced into the passing light swirch wire. Connecting the BiStable FlipFlop input connected on the Anode or switch side of diode.
If the passing switch operates a relay first. Is less complicated it's just wired in without a diode mod.

Notice the BiStable circuits. The trigger is a short to negative voltage or ground. An additional trasistor or a small light duty relay to convert a positive trigger voltage to a negative. Or you can use PNP trasistors in the trasistor bistable flipflop.

Goodluck if you get it to work. Make some extra ones. Encase them in epoxy and sell em for $100

 

[Rhythm]

The easy way would be to totally remove the momentary switch and disengage the hi pass wiring while capping it off.  Then hopefully he will be able use the same spot to place his new weather proof toggle switch while exiting the two leads through the switch housing backside keeping a stock clean appearance .

Whichever way you choose to use please post up the end results.



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[bigjohn141]

Thanks bronto for the info. I think i will just order one premade because by the time I am finish wiring that mess, the busas will come standard with night vision. Rythm, I am right there with you. I am going to disassemble the switch housing later on to explore my options. If it is going to be too difficult to wire this thing, I plan on triying to find a micro toggle switch to take its place. I think I am going to take a few pics when the install actually happens just to make it a little clearer.

 

[bigjohn141]

Don't you people sleep or have a life?

Neither do I.

 

[Rhythm]

Good deal and good luck on finding a micro toggle switch .

P.S. keep me in the loop if you find a source for the micro switch.

Ty

 

[Rhythm]

Posted on Aug. 02 2005,02:44
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Don't you people sleep or have a life?





Neither do I. [/QUOTE]

 

[Bronto]

Gone so fast earlier it's already the next day

Yes I have cloths on, even shoes

 

[ICEMANN]

Wow lots of ideas. The flip-flop is a good idea however pretty involved..

The 12V latch relay you found for $25 will work fine. I believe it takes the momentary contact push to latch it on then a second push to latch it off. The "normal" hid amp draw is under 15 amps. Your stock switch can handle it. The relay at 16 amps should be able to handle it. What I would do is put a 15amp fuse inline "BEFORE" the relay so if it does blow you loose the fuse not the $25.00 relay.

Idea of hint ref inside of switch assembly. Toggle switch is in upper part of housing in a very small, very small space. everything else bends down around handle bar then out. Not worth trying to seperate to remove the switch. Also any new switch you get will not fill that "SLOT" that the push to pass button takes up. "Gapping" hole left if you remove it. It would be easier to "trace" the two wires coming from the switch out of the assembly and hook your wires to it.

ANOTHER IDEA!........... You highbeam on/off switch. SWITCH the wires from your low beam to your high beam. Your highbeam on/off switch would now control your HID. Put the highbeam on the other latch circuit or seperate switch. WIth the HID you wont use your highbeam anyway. REMEMBER to adjust your headlight aim aftr you put the HID in. It's easier to remove your instrument cluster then you can reach into the back of the head light to make adjustments while sitting on the bike. Get it perfect then put cluster back in.

ICE

 

[suzuki4life]

buy a euro switch and rewire it if necessary. My personal opinion, trying to adapt circuitry to outdoor conditions and exposures are a BAD idea unless he really knows what he is doing. If water/moisture doesn't kill it, heat will. IF you're lucky it'll survive those conditions and then fail to improper load or a dumb short. I love mods as much as the next guy but sometimes it just doesn't make sense to try reinventing the horse.

 

[bigjohn141]

Ok the relay is on order. Now all I have to do is wait for it and the HID system to show up. I went with a $30 relay instead of the $25 because it uses 1/4" spade terminals and is a tougher design. Also it is rated to run a 1/2hp motor so it will be able to handle to HID system. If everything works out, I will post the place to buy the relays.