Busaindena
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The two pictures show difference in where the new wheel position with +3 , looks like about 1 inch shorter wheel base
New 46 steel vortex rear sprocket
- Thread starter Busaindena
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Tenderfoot
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I've been seriously thinking about going 3 up in the rear also. Let us know how you like it and the differences when you can!
Busaindena
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I will give feed back when weather gets above 50deg here in maryland
Now drop your fr sprock by -1
ottafish
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I've gone +2 on the rear and would never go back to stock. 70% of my riding is twisties and it works beautifully. I also find it's easier to get off the line without bogging down as much
Tenderfoot
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My plans are the R6 throttle, cat delete and ecu flash along with the gear change. I'm trying to thread the needle and have the best of both worlds. @ottafish are you saying with the +2 you can feel the difference without it hurting cruising rpm speeds? I know this is subjective but, would +3 be on the edge or just over the best of both worlds scenario.
Busaindena
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Yes stock length and chain has 2000 miles
ottafish
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Definitely can notice the dif on +2. It only changes rpm by just over 200 at 100/110kmh which is our legal cruising speeds. I have a speedo healer to adjust the speed on the gauge. I can't comment on a +3 though, that be back to the OP to do.
For me, if I was doing heaps of Hwy work, I wouldn't go any further. And here street and roll racing isn't much of a thing, (massive penalties including having you bike confiscated and destroyed) so all out street acceleration isn't what I need.
Busaindena
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Wow I would be driving like mrs daisy
Mythos
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I just tried a 47T with a stock chain and front sprocket that have 16k miles on them. The chain is close to the limit of wear and the sprockets are ready to change. The 47T didn't allow the axle to match up to the axle slot.
This is it with the stock chain and front sprocket. The wheel is pulled back tighter than I would adjust it and the axle still doesn't align by quite a lot. The pic was taken with the bike on a swing arm pivot stand so the swing arm is at maximum open.
I have a set of raising links to go on and I think that will open the swing arm enough to fit the new 47T rear with a new front sprocket and a new chain of stock length.
This is it with the stock chain and front sprocket. The wheel is pulled back tighter than I would adjust it and the axle still doesn't align by quite a lot. The pic was taken with the bike on a swing arm pivot stand so the swing arm is at maximum open.
I have a set of raising links to go on and I think that will open the swing arm enough to fit the new 47T rear with a new front sprocket and a new chain of stock length.
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Tenderfoot
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I imagine a 47t would make it hard to keep the front tire on the ground!
Mythos
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I'm expecting it will be manageable based on my experience with going to +4 on my ZX-14. It might not be the thing for drag launches though. The busa was always more of a wheelie bike than the 14 but the raising links will inhibit wheelies somewhat too. It should still do about 180 mph.
The suggestion of going to -1f / +3r sounds like it might be a little excessive to me but that's what some people are looking for...maybe I'll try it!
Berlin Germany
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@Busaindena
your pic seems to show a chain without any slack but straight like "laying on a ruler"
man - that way, without any slack, you at 1st will kill your chain (or did it already, feelable & visible by some 2 or 3 inflexible / "stiff" links if the chain get its 1" slack)
and at 2nd the bearing at the sprocket shaft directly behind the sprocket in the crankase.
to 1. easy to fix with a new +1 link longer chain or by a -1 tooth / 17 teeth (instead of the at the gen2 usual 18) front sprocket - i guess
to 2. damn hard job , the engine must be pulled and the crankase needs to be splitted
in general - when the swing arm goes up because the shock absorber compresses,
the chain "shortens", so to speak, due to the geometry of the swing arm to its pivot point / to the distance to the pivot point / shaft (pinion)
what then causes the destructive giant force on the front bearing, which then leads to the destruction of the bearing in the last step
and if then only a single ball of the bearing (or fragments of it) go inside because the bearing cage breaks ==> "tooth loss" on the gear wheels up to broken / bent shafts, everything is possible
and then "good night" transmission
means in worst case a total loss of the trans.
my own exp. : that wandering ball , around 25 years ago, i have had at my ´80 z1000
followed by a total loss of both shafts and all gears - but not caused by a missing chain slack but by a not correctly tightened sprocket nut. the result - a huuuuuge and incredibly high bill.
so ! - what ever you do do it quick - at very 1st control a.s.a.p. - in a max silence around you - if there are any bearing noises when turning the wheel in neutral and motor off
and then, if no noises hearable, give the chain a.s.a.p. a visible slack of 1 inch minimum
measured in the middle between rear axle and pivot point of the swingarm.
your pic seems to show a chain without any slack but straight like "laying on a ruler"
man - that way, without any slack, you at 1st will kill your chain (or did it already, feelable & visible by some 2 or 3 inflexible / "stiff" links if the chain get its 1" slack)
and at 2nd the bearing at the sprocket shaft directly behind the sprocket in the crankase.
to 1. easy to fix with a new +1 link longer chain or by a -1 tooth / 17 teeth (instead of the at the gen2 usual 18) front sprocket - i guess
to 2. damn hard job , the engine must be pulled and the crankase needs to be splitted
in general - when the swing arm goes up because the shock absorber compresses,
the chain "shortens", so to speak, due to the geometry of the swing arm to its pivot point / to the distance to the pivot point / shaft (pinion)
what then causes the destructive giant force on the front bearing, which then leads to the destruction of the bearing in the last step
and if then only a single ball of the bearing (or fragments of it) go inside because the bearing cage breaks ==> "tooth loss" on the gear wheels up to broken / bent shafts, everything is possible
and then "good night" transmission
means in worst case a total loss of the trans.my own exp. : that wandering ball , around 25 years ago, i have had at my ´80 z1000
followed by a total loss of both shafts and all gears - but not caused by a missing chain slack but by a not correctly tightened sprocket nut. the result - a huuuuuge and incredibly high bill.
so ! - what ever you do do it quick - at very 1st control a.s.a.p. - in a max silence around you - if there are any bearing noises when turning the wheel in neutral and motor off
and then, if no noises hearable, give the chain a.s.a.p. a visible slack of 1 inch minimum
measured in the middle between rear axle and pivot point of the swingarm.
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Busaindena
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I still have some adjustment left with +3 , I move the chain to its tightest spot and and measured 1 inch movement .
If you're set on running a 47 with the stock arm, you could toss on a longer chain. Plus you could keep enough links to have the axle near the back of the arm to help with the wheelies a bit!
michael parris heuberger
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HI. I am going with +3 in on the front and -2 to 4 on the rear. Gen 1 stock 17 front 40 rear. I also have over drive 5th and 6th OD .96 stock 1.043.
Mythos
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Yes, I might need to go to one extra link to fit the 47T even if I use raising links in the setup or else I'll have to go to 18/46 or 17/47. I always do my best to not gain weight when replacing OEM with aftermarket though so I'm really hoping I can stick with stock length chain. The whole idea is to have the ideal chain length to accommodate as wide a range of sprocket gearing at stock wheelbase as possible without adding weight.
I'm just now getting into the project. Here's my thread on this matter:
Minimum Wheelbase, Tire Size, Raising Links, Gearing and Chain Length | Gen 2 Busa Information
So you know where I'm going with this, what I have in mind is a Gen2 busa that is set up for twisties and sport riding that can be converted to LSR without needing to remove the chain to accommodate the lower ride height and tall gearing. Wheelbase, tire size, ride height, gearing and chain...
I had my eye out for the rubber band stretched chain too. It's a little hard to say from the pic with the stock muffler on there but from what I see, the tension looks OK. The book says 0.8"~1.2" slack. If you ask me, that is a bit on the tight side. I go for an inch and a quarter or maybe even a little more. It might be hard to measure it on one run without the swing arm getting in the way. Here's how I do it:
Leave the bike on the side stand. Lift the chain and measure the distance the top run travels with a 14" ruler held against the side of the chain, there is a nice spot on the undertail to butt the end of the ruler against. Relax chain (don't pull it down, just let it relax), now pull and measure the bottom run. Now add the two measurements. Use only about 2 lb of force when you pull the chain for both measurements.
After the chain is adjusted and the bike is on its side stand, the chain should mostly be resting on the swing arm chain guide. The bottom run should droop a little. If the chain lays on the chain guide all the way to the end, that is too loose. That is when I know I need to adjust mine. If you can see most of the chain guide, that's too tight once you put your weight on the suspension and ride.
A new chain needs to be adjusted frequently. If your chain is laying on the chain guide after a couple hundred miles, that's probably normal at this point, it doesn't necessarily mean it was overtightened. Just be careful that it's laying on the chain guide most of the way and I think that will be good for a visual. The measuring takes some judgement but the visual is a good backup.
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