New best this weekend 8.802

sean06

Registered
My previous best time was an 8.88. Since last time out I added 2" to the wheelbase, which puts me at 64" and thought that would be enough to get me into the 8.7x's. But I was wrong:banghead: I did finally did get into the 1.3 60's:cheerleader: My best 60 was a 1.38 and I also ran a 1.39. So my best passes were an 8.802 and an 8.808. And the 1/4 mph clocks were screwy all day. My highest mph was a 163.959 :rofl: and my lowest was a 155mph, so now I have no idea what my bike really mph's. the 1/8mph was a steady 126-127 all day long. So my quest goes on for the 8.7xs:thumbsup: Next time out Ill try the gixxer 1k stacks. Ill let you guys know how that goes.

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Here are my best slips, and yes I know there is no way the bike mph this high. It has been running right at 158 the last 2 times out. But now after running a couple of 155's yesterday Im not too sure.

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On this pass I made my best 60' of the day and then the bike spun pretty good on the 1-2 shift which shows in my 330' time. This would have been my best shot at a .7x. The left lane was horrible so I stock running in that lane for the day.

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Very nice short times, hope now you know why I was questioning your mph....:thumbsup:
E.T's are good, but sorry you didn't get what you were looking for.
 
Timing lights are strange beasts, and what works consistently for cars doesn't work great for bikes. Cars light the pair of 1/4 mile timing lights high to hit a bumper or a light flag hanging down, but bikes prefer to have the lights low across a longer section of wheel. Depending on the speed of the timing processor, its possible to not even break the beam with a low profile tire if the lights are high enough. If the first beam doesn't break until the bodywork or (worst case) the rear wheel, and the second beam breaks on the leading edge of the tire you can read fast. The reverse is also true. I remember about 4 years ago at Maxton that the two independent timers didn't correspond and they were giving out two different speed slips the first day until they adjusted the timer hights to satisfy both the car guys and the bike guys.
 
what clutch set up are you using, might have been slipping clutches up top or spinning the tire. Either way.. your doing the damn thing. What all do you have done to that thing?:bowdown:

Mine is 02"@69"+ and I flipped it over 2wks ago. I was at State Capital Dragway racing a 09" turbo Busa trying to spray off the line. Thought I had it but, guess I was wrong. At 300lbs we all thought it was impossible. But i have the wrecked bike and wounds to prove other wise. :banghead:
 
Timing lights are strange beasts, and what works consistently for cars doesn't work great for bikes. Cars light the pair of 1/4 mile timing lights high to hit a bumper or a light flag hanging down, but bikes prefer to have the lights low across a longer section of wheel. Depending on the speed of the timing processor, its possible to not even break the beam with a low profile tire if the lights are high enough. If the first beam doesn't break until the bodywork or (worst case) the rear wheel, and the second beam breaks on the leading edge of the tire you can read fast. The reverse is also true. I remember about 4 years ago at Maxton that the two independent timers didn't correspond and they were giving out two different speed slips the first day until they adjusted the timer hights to satisfy both the car guys and the bike guys.

Thats interesting, I do have a shorter front tire on the bike (120/60). I have no idea what was going on. The ET's were all very close, but the mph was all over the place. Im not sure what the deal was, maybe I should put my stock front tire back on and see if this still happens.

And Im running a stock clutch with brocks mod and cushion kit. I know its not spinning up top, not enough power for that. But I have no idea if the clutch is slipping. I do have over 200 passes now on the stock steals and fibers. And sorry to hear about you and your bike:banghead: I laid my 14 down on at the 1/8th marker last year, so I feel your pain.
 
Have you scuffed the steels, or just left it alone? @ least I would pull them and check. By the time you notice the power loss, they have been slipping for a while. Replace them with stock as needed.
 
I wouldn't screw with your clutch until your 60 ft times start going away or the bike starts to drag you through the lights. 1.38 is great. The stock clutch pack works pretty well.
 
Dang dude, looks like you have the hang of that monster!

I'm not into drag bikes but that looks like a ton of fun! :cheerleader:
 
Have you scuffed the steels, or just left it alone? @ least I would pull them and check. By the time you notice the power loss, they have been slipping for a while. Replace them with stock as needed.

I havent touched them yet. Ill take a look at them and make sure I dont have any warped ones in the pack
 
I got 200 plus runs this year on the stock 14k mile clutch and it is still grabbing and stack height is 1.98. If you replace it though stock replacement works the best I found If you change the front tire post results b/c I was gonna go 120/60 for this coming season and curious if there is a difference:beerchug:
 
I did the swingarm, gearing, wheels, and 120/60 front all at the same time, so I no idea if it helped or not. My next front will be a 120/70 so Ill see if it slows down.
 
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