New to forum have oil question
- Thread starter TUCKER73
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4 qts when empty. Just put in 3.5 qts, stand her up straight and look into the sight glass on the right side on the clutch case cover. Then, fill her up to mid way between the lines and she's good. Amsoil 10w40 is good, just remember, IF you go full synthetic, don't go back to conventional and I also recommend not to use a blended oil either
1busa
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+1 what he said.... amsoil is a good brand. I run Mobile 1 synthetic cause it is readily available @ several autoparts store 7days a week. Sometimes guys go with the fancier or higher priced oils and it's sometimes hard to come bye. Have to drive to a certain bike shop to get it or maybe only a limited supply since few places carry it.
to the oRg 
coreywiley
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to the org
Busashot
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I have run Amsoil for 20 years now. I am not saying all other oils are inferior but Amsoil has proven itself in all of cars and bikes. First hand experience is when I had a 1987 Mustang LX 5.0 that had 60k on it when I bought it back in 1992. It had conventional oil in it but I soon changed over to Amsoil 10w40. At about 70k I added a Kenne Bell Supercharger, exhaust system and a good ignition system while the engine remained stock otherwise. I ran 8psi with 92 octane on the street and with bumped up timing and 2 psi more boost, I ran 116 octane race fuel. The car had clocked 12.70s @112mph at 5300' altitude on street tires. Since I was young and full of energy as well as worked as a mechanic, I kept the maintenance on this car perfect. You could eat off the bottom of the car after I spent a week detailing it completely and I mean completely. Anyhow, after about 4 years the car had about 175k on it which included about 500 qtr mile runs under it's belt. I decided to pull the engine and look into doing a rebuild for a turbo upgrade. When I pulled it apart I was freakin amazed how the cylinder bores appeared and how the bearings looked like they may have only had 100k on them. The engine look flawless. I stand by Amsoil 100%. Maybe a tad more expensive but after 25 years of competing against other oils all these years, most still say they are the best.
ldryder
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In my previous motorcycles, a 2001 CBR1100XX with 68,000 miles and a 2006 FJR1300 with 81,000 miles... the valve clearances were checked regularly and were never out of spec. I feel that using Amsoil 10w40 and changing it every 5,000 miles had a lot to do with that.
Of course, I use Amsoil 10w40 in my 2013 Hayabusa and my 2010 Goldwing.
Of course, I use Amsoil 10w40 in my 2013 Hayabusa and my 2010 Goldwing.
HOOKDADDY
Registered
Why you say dont go back to conventional and dont use blended oils
LOL Because going from dino to synthetic is ok but going back has its downsides. When the engine metals get used to have the lubrication of the syn, the dino oil starts pitting components. Also, your seals get used to syn becuase it runs "thinner". Then your seals don't want dino. You have tiny oil passages though, that syn oil cleans dino sludge out of. This lets your engine move smoother, putting dino back in gums them back up.
And I just don't trust semi syn
And I just don't trust semi syn
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