You can throw any exhaust on without tune, but you won't see the gains you COULD see without a PC or tune. Why not get the most out of your mods?
I've found that when searching online, there is an incredible lack of straightforward, step-by-step answers to specific questions. I have to piece together fifteen different posts to nail down the right answer. While there will always be some disagreement, I'll try to help with that problem and give one, complete answer for you and others searching in the future:
With just slip-ons, the need for PC/ECU Tune is not as high as with a full exhaust.
With a full aftermarket exhaust, you should:
(1) Get a PC-V and download a map with your mods (or one with similar mods). This is the cheaper route ($175-$220 used, $400 new). Instead of downloading a map, you could also get a custom ECU tune or Power Commander tune on a dyno if there is a tuner in your area. Some tuners use ECU editor software, others tune with the Power Commander, and others do both. ($275-$400 for a custom tune.) This will tune an optimal a/f and other settings for YOUR bike and your style of riding.
(2) Do the PAIR mod (block off the hose via marble mod, buy block-off plates, or do something similar). The exhaust will gargle/backfire on decl if you don't, and you won't get accurate a/f readings with the PAIR attached --if you ever need those. Might as well block it off. (Marble mod is free. Block offs are $20-$50.)
(3) For most full exhausts, it is easier to do install the exhaust with the oil cooler removed, but the radiator can usually be moved out of the way without removal. (only a little bit of oil drips out. It's an easy time to do an oil change and/or coolant change if needed, btw.)
Additional considerations:
(1) Consider a race-air filter. If the bike is going to be exhaling better, might as well make it inhale better. Consider BMC Race filters.
(2) Get the ECU flashed (different from an "ECU tune" from my perspective.)
- "ECU Flash" basically removes limiters, turns off some electronics like the PAIR valve (though the hose should still be blocked off), opens the secondary throttle plates better, etc. It is not custom to your bike.
- An "ECU tune" puts the bike on a dyno and provides a custom ECU tune specific to YOUR bike.
- People use "flash" and "tune" interchangeably because the software simply says "Flash ECU" regardless of the change, but since the service is different, I think it's MUCH easier to call these mods different things.
A flash is not at all required with the exhaust change. Cost is $50-$100 at most places. Some on here will do it for free, but shipping usually means you can get it for the same price as shipping if someone near you can flash the ECU. But these are your basic mods, so I thought I would throw this in. Hope it helps.
Today I noticed this and is it a shifter? Nice surprise because I was few days ago browsing the ebay and thinking that I could buy a shifter.
