NITROUS JET IN CLUTCH LINE

N

NICKxNOBLE

Registered
Does any one up here run a nitrous jet in the clutch line. I want to know a good starting point, im thinking around 25 to 35. also what rpm's do you leave at and how quickly do you lock the throttle? your help and advice will be much appreciated. please don't preach to me about seat time, just advice on jets and launching technique.
 
...so my guess is you probably don't want to use the clutch at all with such a set up after you launch. I've heard cutting throttle quickly without using the clutch unloads the transmission enough to shift but I have never tried it.
 
Mythos said:
...so my guess is you probably don't want to use the clutch at all with such a set up after you launch. I've heard cutting throttle quickly without using the clutch unloads the transmission enough to shift but I have never tried it.
Click to expand...

That works perfectly and does no harm IME. Doesn’t have to be a quick throttle off, just letting off the throttle as you upshift does the trick nicely. When I drag raced (in the old days:D) after launching my left arm was tucked in as I shifted solely in this fashion. Air shifters do the trick these days. :race:
 
I've heard of guys doing it but never heard anybody give up the secret of what size to use. I think I'd start small then work up from there. Might as well set up the two-step so you get consistent results. If you are gen-2 that is a simple ECU Editor adjustment.

To do the clutchless upshift when racing you only have to rock the throttle maybe 30%, and do it quickly. When I used to street ride I normally upshifted that way after I got into 2nd gear. Pointless to pull the clutch lever.
 
I don't know where you guys are racing with 2 steps and crazy clutch mods. Pro ET is really tough against the slider / delay box / chassis bikes and the street bike ET and index classes won't allow it.
 
ItsDooomz said:
I don't know where you guys are racing with 2 steps and crazy clutch mods. Pro ET is really tough against the slider / delay box / chassis bikes and the street bike ET and index classes won't allow it.
Click to expand...
Plenty of options around here. A couple tracks have street ET classes that allow hand sliders and two-steps. We have a heads up race, anything allowed but no wheelie bars. We have what I call "footbrake" classes with the cars that allow them and we can be competitive because there are no transbrakes, no delay boxes, and no line-locks past the burnout. Then we can also race the no-box car class if we want but that is tough without the delay switch on a transbrake. Then there is the occasional grudge race where of course anything is allowed.
 
I use a air shifter with auto shift, i use to have a good clutch hand and cut 1.50 60' all day long. i just dont get the oppurtunity to put in the seat time anymore. i plan on leaving about 9000 and dumping and going wot. just hoping for a recomendation on starting point. shinko hookup and 18'' over.
 
NICKxNOBLE said:
Shinko hookup and 18'' over .
Click to expand...

attachment.php


Not trying to ask them to do more than they should ~ if you buy a higher number they'll last longer . . .

However, that also means that they will not stick nearly as well as the lower number tires !

What I've found out is that the 180 / 55 " HOOK - UP " works great for the drags.

I wouldn't ask that tire to perform well heading up to an Idyllwild ride !

The " ADVANCE " 005 would be my choice for curving roads .

The " APEX " 010 would last me a little bit longer.

Buy whatever you want to go ride with ?

I'm OK~ with the sticky Shinko.

Just my two cents here.

Red, *<(:{)-

:popcorn:
 
NICKxNOBLE said:
I use a air shifter with auto shift, i use to have a good clutch hand and cut 1.50 60' all day long. i just dont get the oppurtunity to put in the seat time anymore. i plan on leaving about 9000 and dumping and going wot. just hoping for a recomendation on starting point. shinko hookup and 18'' over.
Click to expand...
18" over and going 1.5 60' is NOT. a good clutch hand. Sorry to be the one that had to tell you.
 
ItsDooomz said:
I'm racing NHRA D2, Manufacturers Cup and possibly an XDA race or two. Racing with cars sounds terrifying. Be safe...
Click to expand...
D2 points either at OSW or Gville, nobody really checks anything. If they have never seen you before in Gville they will. Flash an NHRA license at em and you are good to go. Besides they can only fill 1 class at OSW and that's anything goes and Gville 2 classes which is pretty much anything goes.
 
Either way, it will take you some significant time to dial in a poor mans slider even more so without datalogging. My left hand sucks worse than it did 5 years ago but i wont give up. My friend sold his after 3 days of persistent testing and just ended up pissed off. Another guy dropped his 60' down but his 330 went up. He swears its because of that valve although i cant explain that. And who is launching a busa at 9K? I really want to see that. Seriously though, the torque curve of the 1300 starts its decline in and around there, whether it be a stroker or a stock motor. Of course it isn't the same for a 1k. But launching at peak or when the torque curve is on the decline doesn't really make much sense. You've got the clutch slipping through the motor at peak torque. Nobody does that.
 
Actually I forgot you used to work there Tom. But nobody checks much of anything anymore. If anything its the racers in that class that lose a round take a look at a bike that beat them and go up to the tower.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Ryan Schnitz
Spyder Dry Nitrous Kit
Replies
2
Views
3,942
kingofdacoast
K
D
Home made small nitrous kit ... 30 HP 99 Busa
Replies
10
Views
3,842
dragdevil
D
N
single stage lock up clutch
2
Replies
32
Views
9,013
Kevin Jones
Kevin Jones
B
Need advice on launching 1397 68 inch bike
Replies
4
Views
1,611
rubbersidedown
rubbersidedown
8
Riding style- Clutch slipper vs clutch drop
Replies
19
Views
1,989
bellisbusa
B
Back
Top