Nitrous Or Turbo

[ColdBusa]

Hey everybody,
I am in the debate of what to do to my busa. I want something that is going to be reliable, but I want it to be fun (well funner than this beast already is...lol). I live in Rockie mountains in Canada and I was told by a tuner that I should just go with nitrous. The only thing about that is as you know nitrous runs out and I will probably be soo addicted as soon as I arm the system that I will run out all the time. One of the tuners told me that tuning a turbo charged bike for around where I live is very tricky because of all the changes in altitude.

I just wanted to see what you guys thought about this, if he is correct or I should go see another tuner.
For mods soo far I have a full Yosh Tri Oval dual tip exhaust, PCIII USB, Power commander LCD display (which would be good for nitrous to change maps), small airbox mod, speedo healer, and GIPro.

Feel free to comment as I would like to hear what you have to say..

Gary.

 

[ColdBusa]

maybe this should be in the "engine and performance modifications" page, can moderators move please?

 

[NightCrawler]

Turbos never run out of turbo!

But really, it depends on your budget. If you can afford it, get the turbo. If you can't .... SAVE UP and get the turbo!

 

[SpeedAdict]

There is always the 1397 big bore kit. Cause there is no replacment for displacment

 

[P-Willy]

The big bore would be a good choice. The turbo will probably require a lot of ongoing tuning. Unless racing is a top priority i'd stay away from nitrous. It should only be used at full throttle. I'm sure the turbo would be a blast to ride though.

 

[johnnycrash]

(ColdBusa @ Aug. 01 2007,22:37) I will probably be soo addicted as soon as I arm the system that I will run out all the time.

That's how it went for me. I routinely go through two 2# bottles per day now on the weekends.

N20 is a hoot for the money, but I hope to go turbo this fall - more power and it never runs out.

 

[GPW]

1397 and a whisper of NOS...........

 

[Rainer3012]

I'm not sure what effects n20 has on an engine, I always though it could be hard on them though.

 

[MET]

Start with a Dry NOS set up and a good tune. If you need more then go with a turbo. Lots of times a NOS setup is all you will need. Altitude should be fine to deal with just different amounts of HP that is all. You will still have enough. I have been below Sea level and at 7,000 feet with not much change other then adding more boost.

 

[SANDFLEA85]

question for you NOS guys..i just sprayed for the first time last week.it was on bike when i bought it 8months ago but never had the need or desire,well after 8months i now desire more...so in 5th gear rolling at 80-90mph I crack the throttle (wot switch w/ 2sec delay to full spray starting at 20%) and within those 2 sec im at 150mph...fukn rush to say the least....how do you guys use it,i didnt want to spray in the lower gears until i get used to it.....but its definately insane

 

[johnnycrash]

(DEVLDOG @ Aug. 02 2007,14:44) how do you guys use it,i didnt want to spray in the lower gears until i get used to it.....but its definately insane

I use a Schnitz RPM window/TPS switch for activation.  I have a toggle under my clutch lever that arms the system, easily reached with my forefinger - I just get through first and then as the bike settles down in second I toggle the system to armed and the rest happens automatically.  I stole this idea from chevelle and it works great.

My bike is lowered and stretched 4 inches with a fresh Shinko so wheelies and spinning aren't a problem.  I have sprayed in first before and survived, but don't plan on doing that again. I'm runing a 50 shot dry - got a 48 hp gain on the dyno.

I just ordered a modded GPS from Boost by smith that will allow me to just leave the NOS system armed all the time with no fear of spraying in first.  $40.  www.boostbysmith.com

 

[Turbo-Torch]

What kind of issues are you going to have with changes in altitude? My 25 year old CX500 Turbo spools up to 19.3 psi whether it's at sea level or 10,000 ft. On board sensors detect atmospheric pressure, boost pressure and temperature which allows the ECU to calculate the perfect mixture no matter what altitude/boost level you're at. High altitude riding has next to no power loss with a proper turbo setup.

 

[The Big Red One]

(Turbo-Torch @ Aug. 02 2007,18:02) What kind of issues are you going to have with changes in altitude?  My 25 year old CX500 Turbo spools up to 19.3 psi whether it's at sea level or 10,000 ft.  On board sensors detect atmospheric pressure, boost pressure and temperature which allows the ECU to calculate the perfect mixture no matter what altitude/boost level you're at.  High altitude riding has next to no power loss with a proper turbo setup.

I had a Seca 650 turbo that I upped the boost on....and even tho it still pulled full boost at 8000+ ft it def lost power...quite noticeable. But it was also carbed. I live at 5000 ft and when I took it down to sea level.............yeeeeeehawwwwwwww!!!

 

[gsxturbo]

A stage one turbo would be very hard to tune if you live where the altitude changes alot but a good secondary system would have a barometric sensor independent or the map sensor so it would correct for any changes in altitude.

A FMU systems will only work right when tuned at the altitude your going to be running at,

Now secondaries will adjust for the difference in altitude by reading the map(barometric pressure)and adjusting the fuel required to suite most systems upon startup the controller will take the reading from the map before the engine starts and goes by that for the fueling the only problem is if you go up in altitude it wont adjust for it seeing as its going by the baro that it seen at startup now with a second baro sensor it will constantly adjust for altitude.

 

[ColdBusa]

Ok, what do you think about this email that I got....

"Well that's unfortunate the guy at Walt's said that. I will agree that huge elevation changes can have some effect on the A/F ratio, but a stage 1 system works within the OE fuel system. All we do is increase fuel pressure in relation to boost pressure. The stock FI system compensates for air density changes with the onboard atmospheric sensor, increasing or reducing injector duration based on what it sees relative to it's factory pre-set condition. It works very similar to a power commander, but it's constantly adding or taking away duration. That being said, if you are in a boost situation in Calgary (low air density), and the fuel pressure rises to 80 psi, and then you are in Vancouver (high air density) at the same boost, you'll get the same fuel pressure of 80 psi, but the factory sensor will have added more fuel injector duration due to the higher pressure that the atmospheric sensor sees at the lower altitude, thus maintaining a correct A/F ratio. If you rally want to be safe, get a dynojet wideband commander, and monitor your A?F ratio real time. And you can make subtle adjustments to maintain a healthy A/F ratio wherever you are. "