no start after engine rebuild

beanerbaego

Registered
firstly, shout out to 202mphbusa.

i started my project due to a bad rod bearing, this has now dragged along for almost a full 3 months . i checked clearances, greased components, torqued to spec, and timed the cams as directed in the manual. i honestly believe to have followed the steps correctly. i made sure my valve shims where in place too, as i heard that it was was a common occurrence to pickup the caps and have a shim become misplaced. the engine spun freely after assembly.


my issue now is that my engine turns over cleanly but it will not start. when i add choke. it sounds as if there a “clinking”. i’ve got fuel, spark, and compression. i’ve checked.

i need one final boost of mechanical knowledge from u all. if i can’t get machine running by this weekend, i will reluctantly b selling her to someone more savvy than i.

much gracias . beaner
 
After you timed it, did you rotate the engine several times and check the timing again?
It can appear to be timed correctly, but after one full engine cycle/4 strokes, it can be off by a tooth in either direction.
I would pull the valve cover and double check if you are not positive.
 
i’ll check the timing again, but i’m very confident that i had that down. i realigned the cams like 3 times before i concluded the the marks where correct.

would this really be the cause for the noise when the high idle (not choke like stated above) is pulled in ? im really stumped because the bike makes no unusual sounds when being turned over without the use of the high idle .
 
i’ll check the timing again, but i’m very confident that i had that down. i realigned the cams like 3 times before i concluded the the marks where correct.

would this really be the cause for the noise when the high idle (not choke like stated above) is pulled in ? im really stumped because the bike makes no unusual sounds when being turned over without the use of the high idle .

That is a completely mechanical adjustment, just a cable moving the throttle linkage, so that makes no sense in making a noise to me, as there are no moving parts for it to contact.
And regardless of how many times that you checked the timing, did you manually rotate the engine several times and check that the timing was still correct?
The timing can be a pain to get correct, and it can rotate out of time by a tooth when not set exact.
 
Does it kick on starting fluid?
Also Voltage check AT THE COILS while cranking
under ~10.6v and it will not start
intermittent spark but won't start, usually sparks at the last moment when releasing the starter button
 
Does it kick on starting fluid?
Also Voltage check AT THE COILS while cranking
under ~10.6v and it will not start
intermittent spark but won't start, usually sparks at the last moment when releasing the starter button
i haven’t tried fluid yet, but on my way i’ll b getting some. i haven’t done a proper voltage reading yet. the spark did not look weak at any of the four coils tho.
 
That is a completely mechanical adjustment, just a cable moving the throttle linkage, so that makes no sense in making a noise to me, as there are no moving parts for it to contact.
And regardless of how many times that you checked the timing, did you manually rotate the engine several times and check that the timing was still correct?
The timing can be a pain to get correct, and it can rotate out of time by a tooth when not set exact.
i’ll give the timing another look again. my reasoning for mentioning the funky noise was maybe the air ratio was causing an issue.

i’m not even sure if that’s possible. either way, i’ll check the timing tonight and pray that’s the issue. do u reckon i can fix that with the engine in? there seems to b enough work space.
 
i’ll give the timing another look again. my reasoning for mentioning the funky noise was maybe the air ratio was causing an issue.

i’m not even sure if that’s possible. either way, i’ll check the timing tonight and pray that’s the issue. do u reckon i can fix that with the engine in? there seems to b enough work space.

Yes, the valve cover will come out in the frame, it's really no different than changing valve shims, as the cams need moved for that too.

The air/fuel ratio cannot change unless you have a tune in a Power Commander, and it has been disconnected, or failed.
 
Yes, the valve cover will come out in the frame, it's really no different than changing valve shims, as the cams need moved for that too.

The air/fuel ratio cannot change unless you have a tune in a Power Commander, and it has been disconnected, or failed.
well, i checked the timing after spinning the engine by hand, and it appears to b to spec. i can send a pic if y’all would like .


any other suggestions? there’s spark to all plugs but it does appear a tad weak. i’ve called a shop and have an appointment for sept 26th;(. i don’t plan on doing any in depth work but suggestions r welcome .
 
I thought you had fuel already, but that sounds like good news.
see sir, i’ve got what one may call dumbassery.

seriously tho, i sprayed some gas directly into the intake and got a clean but very brief idle!

as i’ve stated previously, the engine turns over nicely and has good compression.

my pump is priming as i actually had the fuel hose fly off when i loosened the clamp. just no spray from the injectors. none when the pump primes and none when the throttle is pulled .
 
see sir, i’ve got what one may call dumbassery.

seriously tho, i sprayed some gas directly into the intake and got a clean but very brief idle!

as i’ve stated previously, the engine turns over nicely and has good compression.

my pump is priming as i actually had the fuel hose fly off when i loosened the clamp. just no spray from the injectors. none when the pump primes and none when the throttle is pulled .

I've had that before, lmao
it's like the flu, it'll pass, and you'll figure it out.
Retrace your steps, check for power at the injectors, it sounds like something simple.
 
You put power on them individually and they worked so...seems like they just aren't getting power. Double check all the connections on that wire loom and inspect for any kinks, cuts, etc.
 
You put power on them individually and they worked so...seems like they just aren't getting power. Double check all the connections on that wire loom and inspect for any kinks, cuts, etc.
i agree that this is what i must do. i hate the idea of having to tracd the harness, but if that’s what must be done. i’ll be doing a dive tonight. i’ll b back!
 
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