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OB_dave p

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thanks mate for posting the info on the other site made me feel a lot better.pity people have to think the worse all the time.Life is so short that we all can do without the hassle,did you get chance to see the pic on tmh with the kneedown (pic site)have said my peace with gnasher hope it works thought about giving FK some abuse but?????.forgot to ask you about the tensioner was it easy to fit and adjust and how often to you have to re-adjust it?(check mail
 
Dave, when i read it i thought ****! It was so out of character from the guy i met at york.

It did read the wrong way, especially as Gnasher said she had brought a friend.

No offence meant.

Fearsome.
 
send it to me mate.glad to hear the confusion has been sorted.nice to hear from FK(nice geezer)..
numbnuts did you like the red pic with kneedown??have you any input on clutch fluid?have read before about it turning dark brown is this due to heat or contamination from the pipe work and would you replace with dot 4 or dot 5???
 
Clutch fluid, goto Homebase and get the Castrol RS dot 4 fluid (rated higher than dot 5.1 (not compatible with dot 5 mind)
It is compatible with what is currently in the bike and with the rubber seals. It is totally clear. Good stuff. I use it, DM uses it and a couple of others. It is real cheap too, like £2.50 a pot.

(I bought 2 pots, have flushed clutch through, twice and done brakes twice, still got 3/4 pot left.)

Red Busa is a bit red!!!! looked good though. Was that your first??

Will send DaveD's post tomorrow if it is not urgent. Am at home now and file is at work

Nuts ;)

FK is a good chap. I like the old boy. Perhaps we'll all meet up one day and talk BS (that'll make a change!!) I think FK and Pooh would get on really well

EDIT oops missed a bit!!
if you take the sprocket cover off and lok at the design of the slave cylinder it is a sh1t trap. Evidently the rubber seal is kept in place by hydraulic fluid pressure. With clutch pulled in and piston expanded, sh1t coats the outside of the piston. When released **** then gets wiped off by seal, but not all of it. Some gets back into fluid. (most of this **** is chain lube I think....) Its a similar set up to a hydraulic ram, but without the dirt seal. No wondr it gets sh1tty!! as for getting hot, the push rod is that small an area in contact with the piston I don't think this is the case. By the way, my push rod was starting to corrode quite nicely. Seems they made it of a nice bit of rustable steel...........

[This message has been edited by NumbNuts (edited 09 August 2000).]
 
DaveP

Don't worry bud, all is fine and dandy!! took my tin hat and gas mask back to the shed. :D :D

Tensioner, was quite easy to fit, can give you potted synopsis if you want!!

Adjusting is not as easy as they say. DaveD agrees with me on this one he mailed me with a review of his fitting. seems we had about the same.

Thanks for the piccys mate!! mail me if you want pointers!

Nuts ;)

oh yeah, FK ***** **** *** you ******* ***** *** *** *** * ***!
 
Clutch Nuts?

or better, ClutchED Nuts?

hehehe

[This message has been edited by 'lantabusa (edited 09 August 2000).]
 
Phew, after reading the title I thought this was a suggestion for NNs to experiment a little.

stop getting Mail and Male mixed up DM.
 
will do DaveD, if DaveP wants it!!
I think the only thing you did that I didn't was to take the cam cover off. I just trusted my insitncts and crossed my fingers!!

I will say to anyone putting the manual tensioner on, if you start the bike with the lock nut slightly loose, it will back out real quick. I was adjusting last night and tightening by hand with engine running, finger slipped off and the bolt backed out 2 flats before i got hold of it again........just a warning!!!

Nuts ;)
 
Sore Nuts, less of the "old boy". I'm 32 years young.

Just cos you look like a prep school boy struggling to stop the bed wetting doesn't mean all others out there need to look like a part-player in The secret seven!

Fearsome.

p.s. anyone heard about the racing and top end runs at Elvington in September? Elvington is literally a couple of miles from the York dragway. I need an ego boost so any Hayabusa's are welcome!
 
Hey, no problem with translating, my German is close to perfect ... will send you scan of diagram with translation of captions/headings that need translation.
My point was not being familiar enough with some graphic tool to replace pure German texts in .jpg scan to make just that 1 pic understandable enough for all you guys.
 
Oil of Ulay FK!!!

keeps you young

personally I use Mobil 1!!!

yeah, Mr Lucky was ranting about that.....might be worth a bash.....
Did you read ANIMALS post on the Aerodynamics??

very good

Nuts ;)
 
Great stuff animal. Thanks for those

Shame they had to use a Blue Busa, else the drag would have been lower!!!! ha ha ha

Here's one for ya.

Just gap my plugs. I normally hae them at 28 thou inch. Read somewhere on the board someone was gapping at 30 thou inch. Thought I would try it.
I think I might be close to solving the stumble problem!!!!!!!
It has a very mild stumble now, nbothing like as bad as it has been................perhaps I should gap them to 32 thou inch, what do you reckon??

(this might not be the only factor, I also took all vaccuum lines off and blew through (although nothing came out) conected a hose to the Air Pressure sensor, and sucked, that is funny!!! alter engine revs by sucking ha ha ha ha. And did same to IAPS. Check resistance of IATS, supposed to be 2.2-2.3k ohms, at 20degs, mine was 1.8Kohms at 20 degs..... hhhmmmmmmmmmm

Resistance of IAPS was 10.3kohms, anyone else know what theirs is?? in the book it only gives voltages....and I forgot to do that bit!!

Nuts ;)
 
Hey NN,

Glad someone else finally noticed the probable real reason for the clutch fluid going foul so fast on Busa.

Already did some rants on that slave cylinder construction couple of times quite a while ago but nobody else seems interested?

On mine I put a plastic cap from a milk bottle over the darn thing on the inside with a hole in the middle just big enough for the clutch push-rod and guess what, no more clutch fluid fouling since then.

Oh, BTW, my pleasure entirely on the aerodynamics item.
 
I just copied you whole post to LAbusas (including your name!!!)

I think it wll be lapped up there!!

Any chance of posting the whole article?? or is it too long??
It is the kind of research that actually means something. All this mag vs other mag high speed, 1/4 mile stuff is nonsense and useless. This is pure, physical, quantifiable data. No argument available for the results.

Thanks for that.

Clutch, yeah cr*p design. Needs a dirt seal or wiper on it. I reckon a piece of rubber inner tube cut to size and fixed over it would do (small hole in middle of course for push rod!! :) )

Nuts ;)
 
Thought of that too (whole article) but problem is that it's in German, it's rather lengthy (10 full pages of text, pics and diagrams) and even the main diagram ain't readable for you guys as the "units" being measured (like frontal area, drag coefficient etc.) are also described in German of course.

Option would be to scan main diagram (that says it all really) tell you what the captions in front of the "rows" should read and if you're "handy" with some graphical tool you could do the translation of just that part (the captions for the columns are just the bike designations and ZX12-R is still ZX12-R in German too).

Let me know if you wanna spend the time on this by sending me an E-mail so I have your address to send scan to tonight if you want.
 
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