OEM Piston ring gap
- Thread starter feket663
- Start date
What You Need To Know About Rings | Blog | Enginetech
Hello Enginetech friends, in this blog post we will review a little bit about piston rings, as well as how to choose the correct ones for your vehicle.
enginetech.com
General rule of thumb is a minimum gap of .0035" per inch of bore diameter.
Be sure that bore is measure top to bottom in various places to look for any taper variance.
Page 56 of the shop manual has your info. Don't have a manual? Get one here for free.....CLICK HERE feket BTW...why the need to change out the rings? Low or un-balanced compression test readings? Burnin' oil?
Are you this far along on a complete tear down without a manual? wow.
What were you gonna do when it came time to start torque'n everything up?
All that pesky micrometer stuff. Phooey.What You Need To Know About Rings | Blog | Enginetech
Hello Enginetech friends, in this blog post we will review a little bit about piston rings, as well as how to choose the correct ones for your vehicle.
General rule of thumb is a minimum gap of .0035" per inch of bore diameter.
Be sure that bore is measure top to bottom in various places to look for any taper variance.
And break out the calculator.Smart.
Odd table. But good guess's I suppose.I personally wouldn't trust it myself.
But that's me,I'm still paranoid after the war.Circle track?
Rubb.
I dunno fella's...the guy posted this Thursday,then was on again today...and didn't post up a thank you to you guys.No acknowledgement whats so ever.
Maybe he thought...ahhh feket.
Rubb.
Maybe he thought...ahhh feket.
Rubb.
feket663
Registered
Dear Rubb! Firstly I'd like thank you for help! I'm really sorry, because I can't find your reply in between many-many post...Page 56 of the shop manual has your info. Don't have a manual? Get one here for free.....CLICK HERE feket BTW...why the need to change out the rings? Low or un-balanced compression test readings? Burnin' oil?
Are you this far along on a complete tear down without a manual? wow.
What were you gonna do when it came time to start torque'n everything up? View attachment 1621911
All that pesky micrometer stuff. Phooey.
Smart.
Odd table. But good guess's I suppose.I personally wouldn't trust it myself.
But that's me,I'm still paranoid after the war.Circle track?
Rubb.
The reason of change my rings the following: I had a K6 Hayabusa with Wiseco 81 mm high compression pistons. The end of last season my bike consumed very high amount of oil (200 km/0,3-0,5 liter). In winter my mechanic disassembled my motor, replaced valve seals with OEM Suzuki parts, replaced pistons to OEM (used parts from my bike, mileage circa 20k mile), and piston rings (used, but good shape, mileage circa 3 k miles, coming from my bike too)... When the bike was done, I'm starting using, but the high oil consumption still exist... Certainly my mechanic checked the cylinder, it was good shape, no nicks, no scratches, and the diameter is close the original. My last idea, replacing the piston rings to new one...
I have manuals, the factory, and I BOUGHT a Haynes Hayabusa manual too.
So it's burning oil? Smokey exhaust? What condition are the plugs in.What does your mechanic read on those?
Rubb.
Your video makes me think worn valve guides. I only saw smoke on decel. You have done the valve seals correct?
Rubb.
Rubb.
feket663
Registered
I contacted few expert, and sent a video, but unanimously stated it's not valve seal or guide problem. If the valve seals would't good, when I start the engine, need smoke, but not in the least (IMO).
You may need a sharper brain than me my friend.
Rubb.
Certainly looks like valve guide wear with that puff of smoke just as you get back on the gas after the decel.
But, why on Earth did you use pistons and rings from another motor??
The rings will have a tough time trying to seal and bed in to the different shaped bore that they are now in.
If you go to all the trouble and expense of removing engine and cylinder head and cylinder block, and fit new gaskets, why not fit NEW rings at the very least?
Yes the pistons may work in the different cyl block, but the rings? Not so much.
Did you hone the bores before installing the used rings?
Did you measure the ring end gaps on all rings?
Did you fit the rings to the pistons with the correct orientation? With the end gaps 120 degrees from each other?
I mean, there is a lot of factors to adhere to, if you want the rings to seal properly.
I'm not trying to criticise and bring you down, but really just trying to help with ideas on how to sort this oil consumption issue.
But, why on Earth did you use pistons and rings from another motor??
The rings will have a tough time trying to seal and bed in to the different shaped bore that they are now in.
If you go to all the trouble and expense of removing engine and cylinder head and cylinder block, and fit new gaskets, why not fit NEW rings at the very least?
Yes the pistons may work in the different cyl block, but the rings? Not so much.
Did you hone the bores before installing the used rings?
Did you measure the ring end gaps on all rings?
Did you fit the rings to the pistons with the correct orientation? With the end gaps 120 degrees from each other?
I mean, there is a lot of factors to adhere to, if you want the rings to seal properly.
I'm not trying to criticise and bring you down, but really just trying to help with ideas on how to sort this oil consumption issue.
I'm sticking with an' issue with the valves,valve guides or valve seals.
I didn't re-build it,so I can't garauntee it was done right.
Wild guess here but could it be a blocked crankcase breather? I mention only because @feket663 mentioned some oil consumption as well, a symptom of a blocked breather.Your views @Kiwi Rider ? An' issue with pistons,rings,piston to cylinder wall clearance,ring end gap would result in blue exhaust all the time,not just on decel. Your plugs don't look too too bad. Put them up against a chart (dozens of them on the internet) and tell me what your mechanic says.The photo's are great because there are several things to look at when reading plugs,the center or positive electrode,the side or negative electrode,the inslulator and the first few threads. To me,your plugs look more carbon fouled than oil fouled.There is a light crust on them thou which indicates some oil fouling.
Rubb.
I didn't re-build it,so I can't garauntee it was done right.
Wild guess here but could it be a blocked crankcase breather? I mention only because @feket663 mentioned some oil consumption as well, a symptom of a blocked breather.Your views @Kiwi Rider ? An' issue with pistons,rings,piston to cylinder wall clearance,ring end gap would result in blue exhaust all the time,not just on decel. Your plugs don't look too too bad. Put them up against a chart (dozens of them on the internet) and tell me what your mechanic says.The photo's are great because there are several things to look at when reading plugs,the center or positive electrode,the side or negative electrode,the inslulator and the first few threads. To me,your plugs look more carbon fouled than oil fouled.There is a light crust on them thou which indicates some oil fouling.
Rubb.
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We don't give a fug if your poor or Eastern Block.
If you asked for help changing out a bad wheel bearing on yer donkey cart you get an' answer for that too.
I get help with all kinds of shi7 and I'm the Org's Original Bastid.
Now if you came in here asking about TRE's or your Power Band that would be a different story.
Rubb.
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Mr Brown
Registered
No need to get your feelings hurt, people are trying to help. We have members from all across the globe, so don't let that bother you.
Please, don’t be offended, we mean well and WANT to help you with your problem.
This is what we do. Help others that may not have much expertise or experience in mechanical diagnosis and fault finding.
Many members here have vast experience and knowledge on Hayabusas and other bikes also. I am a working motorcycle mechanic, car mechanic for 35 years and others here are also full time working mechanics.
So please, just ask if you need help.
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