oil change

[Blue1]

I need some quick insight here.

First let me say I am a reasonably skilled amateur mechanic. I have a ZRX1200 Kawasaki and the only thing the dealer does is mount new tires on my wheels. I flush and rebuild all hydraulic systems on the bike, adjust valves, synchronize carbs (remember them?), flush coolant and bleed the coolant system. The Kawasaki factory manual is excellent.

I look at the Suzuki factory manual and realize why I didn't do all these services on my '83 GS1100E: because the manual absolutely sucks.

I made plans on spending the evening doing my first service oil and filter change. I break out the manual and nowhere does it say what body panels need to be removed. I figure that the illustration shows the brake side lower panel removed, so I go to the chassis section and, correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears that to remove the lower brake side fairing section, the upper sections must be removed. To do that, it appears the windscreen needs to be removed. To do that, the black vinyl trim between the gas tank and the fairing edge needs to be removed, and possibly so does the lower fairing underneath the bike.

Someone please tell me that I didn't just buy the maintenance bike from hell. Is there a short cut to accessing the oil filter or does the bike have to be completely stripped of the entire fairing, windscreen and trim?

I hope someone that knows can respond quickly so if there is a shortcut, I can finish this (what should be a thirty minute) job tonight.

Thanks,
Blue1

 

[OZZY]

you just need to remove the brake side lower. that will also include the inner panel that is attached to it.

standing in front of and looking at the bike it will be on your left hand side

 

[V-Max 2 Busa]

Blue1, Ya I especially liked where it says to "unhook the hook" took me quite a while to figure that one out especially seems it's not a hook at all, more like a large push pin that goes into a rubber grommet. It's really not all that difficult, the right side (brake side) fairing needs to come off, the right side inner panel (the black one) stays attached to the fairing, just remove it all in one piece, I've heard the one that hangs up most is the little pushpin up front above the front fender back by the radiator, I've also heard to use tape on edges to reinstall fairing as to not scratch the upper fairing, I didn't use any tape and had no problems there.

 

[8Daytona8]

Not a big deal so don't worry. I remove the R-side lower fairing screws only. from the left side of the bike laying on the floor you can get your left arm up in and around the header to remove and install the filter. If its the first time from factory oil change its on there pretty tight. I find the strap filter wrench works the best with the fairing not all the way off. Follow filter instructions and with a good grip the next time it should come off by hand. 1 1/2 turn after gasket contact and check for leaks. Most filters can be removed thru the header tubes on the R-side. Or around the header and fairing.

 

[Blue1]

I can't say enough bad things about the decision by Suzuki management to staff their technical writing department with basically non-English speaking morons that have never lifted a wrench. I am pissed, and wondering how I'm going to be able to work on this thing.

So I just unscrew all the fasteners from the right side lower fairing panel and pull an arrowhead stud out of a grommet? No other pieces need to be removed?

 

[8Daytona8]

I don't know of a full fairing bike that is any easier to do the basics on! Try doing anything on a Duc. Removing the whole fairing is way more work. 15 min after you get it ironed out.

 

[Blue1]

OK, I admit I don't have the most patience in the world.

Once all the screws are out of the fairing lower, what is keeping it attached to the black trim piece? I'm afraid to pull on it for fear of f**king something up. When some said to just undo the lower fairing screws, do they mean that then you can just push the bottom of that panel out of the way, not entirely removing it? Does removing it entirely involve removing the entire fairing?

Lastly, is there anyone in the Somerset county area of NJ that would be willing, for lunch and beer on a Saturday, to show me how the entire fairing comes off?

If anyone is willing, let me know and I'll PM you my email address and/or phone.

thanks

 

[V-Max 2 Busa]

Blue1, that's about it start wrenchin.  Owner's manuals are rarely ever very extensive, Service manuals on the other hand can be very extensive & thorough, you can find the full downloadable Suzuki service manual somewhere on this site, just can't remember off hand so if you need it give me you e-mail address and I'll send it to you.

Hey, this is my first sport bike and if I can figure it out anybody can.

Also, just hope the previous owner was a mechanical genius that thought that it's OK to crossthread fairing bolts then just force in a larger bolt.... Frickin Brilliant!

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

I can't say enough bad things about the decision by Suzuki management to staff their technical writing department with basically non-English speaking morons that have never lifted a wrench.  I am pissed, and wondering how I'm going to be able to work on this thing.  

So I just unscrew all the fasteners from the right side lower fairing panel and pull an arrowhead stud out of a grommet?  No other pieces need to be removed?

I think I've mentioned this before but I've never removed the fairing to change the oil filter and its got just under 20,000 miles. Except for the first one, I've done all the oil changes. I remove all the right side and under fairing bolts, and the ones behind the front wheel up next to the radiator and the top pushpin type connecting the black 'dashboard' to the fairing. The 'tabs' on the side piece that slide under the right side nose piece are actually pretty long so I use a 10-12" stick to prop the side piece away from the bike, down by the sight glass area, so I can reach the filter. The bike is on both stands BTW. I use a K&N filter with a nut on it, so removal and reinstallation is a snap. Realigning the almost removed fairing piece is also a snap and I never have to worry about scratches.

 

[Blue1]

I am picking up a Suzuki oil filter socket at the dealer Thursday or Friday.

I don't have a front stand yet, I'm looking for a headstock stand, not those stands that lift from under the forks; what good are they? You can't even remove the forks.

Anyway, I figure having it on the rear stand should be fine. Your reply was most helpful, I suspect I'll be riding Sunday with fresh oil/filter.

Blue1

 

[BlueHaya]

https://www.hayabusa.org/forums/?act=ST;f=24;t=29016

Use this.

 

[V-Max 2 Busa]

Did my first oil change without stands, actually just used Canyon Dancer w/tie downs to hold bike level.

 

[Blue1]

Guys, I know the difference between a shop manual and an owner's manual. I've built v-8 engines from the ground up and as I've said, I do all the maintenance on the ZRX.

The 'busa Suzuki factory service manual sucks; it is laid out just like my GS1100E service manual from 24 years ago. It is NOT extensive enough and presumes a Suzuki service background in its readers. It does not give torque readings for things like the fairing screws. It is laid out in a way that is difficult to find specific information.

Pick up a Kawasaki manual and you will see much clearer illustrations and verbal explanations. You can find the torque value of virtually every screw. Still not perfect, but usable.

Don't think I don't appreciate the 'busa; it is awesome! It's just gonna take me a little longer to learn all areas of maintenance.

Are the aftermarket service manuals worth the investment?

Blue1

 

[BlueHaya]

....you mean Kawasaki has to tell its owners how tight to tighten the fairing screws.(sorry I had to)

They just need to be snugged up. That is like including a screw torque spec in a home light switch cover plate...just snug it up.

...and you are right, the service manual will not train you to do work. It is for a shop to do work with by "trained" machanics (used loosely). They assume an applied basic knowledge.

 

[Blue1]

There is a specific torque that every fastener/application was designed to be tightened to.  The Philips screws that hold the windscreen on the ZRX bikini fairing have a torque value and you can look it up.

The Suzuki manual lacks the detail and forethought of the Kawaski manual.  That is a fact that is apparent to those of us that have used both.  If you have not used both, your comments are meaningless.

(sorry I had to)

 

[Spudley]

Manual

?......you guys use a manual

?.........





























Thank ya...thank ya very mushhhh.....

 

[Cblast]

If you have done such extensive mechanical work than I am sure that you realize the best way to learn the little details of maintenance on your particular motorcycle is to just get out there and do it. A lot of the manuals are available through various online sources and I for one could not find any torque spec on a phillips head screw in the kawasaki manual for my wife's ninja 250. Maybe the suzuki guys wrote that one.

 

[Vic_E55_2001]

Who need manual to change oil? and using torque wrench on fairing bolts??? just brilliant.

 

[Blue1]

Ok, I've obviously got off on the wrong foot with some people that feel personally insulted that I think the Suzuki manual is kinda crappy.

I'm not particularly mechanically inclined; I just had a desire to do the things I have done after reading and self-teaching; to do that, you must have the material to read. I had no personal instruction on anything I've accomplished. I felt I needed to consult the manual to remove the fairing so I wouldn't damage expensive pieces.

Cblast - You're right, I just got get in there and do it

Vic - I am happy to feed your superiority complex. Now you can kiss my

Blue1

 

[Cblast]

Hey bud, nobody likes to get off on the wrong foot. Welcome to the Org, the biggest trouble that I faced when changing my own oil was getting the old filter out. I have an Akrapovic full system and the header pipes are large and made it nearly impossible. then re-tightening the new filter with just a set of channel locks was a huge pain in the azz! Get a proper filter wrench or a good pair of kitchen gloves so that you can get a good grip on that sucker when re-tightening.