Oil drip from oil plug only when ran (maybe)

[Beekove]

I just bought my first bike, gen1 2003. Got it home and parked it. Next morning I found a nickel sized oil spot underneath. The drain plug was covered in oil. I wiped it clean a day ago and now it is still clean with no leaks. I can see a little oil on the pan toward the rear too.

I’m thinking it was leaking when it was ran or hot but I didn’t see anywhere else it could have come from. Any ideas?

 

[sixpack577]

Assuming the threads are good and the bolt is tight, it probably needs a new crush washer.

 

[Bumblebee]

Assuming the threads are good and the bolt is tight, it probably needs a new crush washer.

I was just going to mention the crush washer...which I change every time I do an oil change.....

 

[busabobh]

I had the same issue, it was the crush washer. Remember proper Tq. on the drain bolt when installing.

 

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

@Beekove welcome to the forum.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Beekove

it could be that the previous owner was too stingy to install a new suzuki pinch seal (crush washer).
solution:
- under no circumstances should you tighten the screw with more Nm - the thread in the oil pan tears out and then ....

1. new washer from suzuki (~ usd 2)
2. bike on the side stand (front to the mountain)
3. Pull the handbrake and "block" the lever (stronger zip tie or so)
4. larger pan under the bike and drain oil
5. wipe the sealing surface on the oil pan and drain plug so that no crumbs of dirt remain there
6. put the new seal and screw back in/on
7. tighten it with max 23-25 Nm
8. refill the oil from the pan

accomplished (max 15 minutes)

 

[Kiwi Rider]

@Beekove

it could be that the previous owner was too stingy to install a new suzuki pinch seal (crush washer).
solution:
- under no circumstances should you tighten the screw with more Nm - the thread in the oil pan tears out and then ....

1. new washer from suzuki (~ usd 2)
2. bike on the side stand (front to the mountain)
3. Pull the handbrake and "block" the lever (stronger zip tie or so)
4. larger pan under the bike and drain oil
5. wipe the sealing surface on the oil pan and drain plug so that no crumbs of dirt remain there
6. put the new seal and screw back in/on
7. tighten it with max 23-25 Nm
8. refill the oil from the pan

accomplished (max 15 minutes)

Exactly my thoughts too, Frank.
I NEVER use a torque wrench on a sump plug.
I have enough experience with them to KNOW when enough is enough as the pressure is being applied from my shoulder through the short 6 inch bar and socket.
Never use a long bar to tighten the sump plug.
Just my 2c.

 

[Berlin Germany]

I NEVER use a torque wrench on a sump plug.

even with 40 years of exp. I use allways a torque wrench for the oil pan plug
the f..king thread in the pan is so super sensitive and the danger to crush it is super high.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

even with 40 years of exp. I use allways a torque wrench for the oil pan plug
the f..king thread in the pan is so super sensitive and the danger to crush it is super high.

I have seen guys strip the thread in the pan because the torque wrench is out of calibration or they haven’t set it correctly, I’ve never stripped a thread tightening one by hand and have never had one loosen off and drop its oil…. So it’s a case of each to their own methods and what works for them.

 

[Beekove]

@Beekove

it could be that the previous owner was too stingy to install a new suzuki pinch seal (crush washer).
solution:
- under no circumstances should you tighten the screw with more Nm - the thread in the oil pan tears out and then ....

1. new washer from suzuki (~ usd 2)
2. bike on the side stand (front to the mountain)
3. Pull the handbrake and "block" the lever (stronger zip tie or so)
4. larger pan under the bike and drain oil
5. wipe the sealing surface on the oil pan and drain plug so that no crumbs of dirt remain there
6. put the new seal and screw back in/on
7. tighten it with max 23-25 Nm
8. refill the oil from the pan

accomplished (max 15 minutes)

Thanks. I’ve got a low-torque torque wrench that should manage 16.5. I’ll give it a shot. Needs an oil change anyway.

 

[sixpack577]

FYI
This is Not a crush washer, it is what some dealers will sell you claiming it is, when this just a flat washer.

 

[sixpack577]

THIS
Is a Crush Washer
It is a soft alloy, and the ridge in it "crushes" into the tapered end of the threads of the oil pan drain plug.
It is basically a gasket.
I buy them 5 or 6 at a time, as they're cheap.
They are also only meant to be used once, so a new one with every oil change.

 

[60+ Busa Rider]

THIS
Is a Crush Washer
It is a soft alloy, and the ridge in it "crushes" into the tapered end of the threads of the oil pan drain plug.
It is basically a gasket.
I buy them 5 or 6 at a time, as they're cheap.
They are also only meant to be used once, so a new one with every oil change.

View attachment 1663316

Please give part number, it’s blurry, thanks.

 

[sixpack577]

Please give part number, it’s blurry, thanks.

Sorry, here you go.
This is the same part for all year Hayabusas, and Gsxr 600, 750, and 1000 since 2001(and possibly older models too, but I'm not sure).

 

[Berlin Germany]

they are super usable at all M14-plugs at every bike.

i use em, for eyample, also at my ´90 yamaha fj 1200 with 100% success - AND the torque at my fj is now 23 Nm but never more the horrible 46 Nm yamaha posted in the manual (with cupper - washers)

 

[Bumblebee]

Sorry, here you go.
This is the same part for all year Hayabusas, and Gsxr 600, 750, and 1000 since 2001(and possibly older models too, but I'm not sure).

View attachment 1663319

View attachment 1663320

I bought a 40 pack from Amazon a few years ago....they are super inexpensive.