ok who want a back yard tensioner solution?

OB_THE MOTORHEAD

Registered
take the stock tensioner rear bolt out.install a slightly longer 6mmX1.0 bolt with a nut into the origional hole.snd and just snug it in.then lock the nut an no more backin out.be sure not to tighten it a lot or you'll bend the retaining clip.the pressure from the bolt will keep the worm gear from going into reverse.guess i',m tired of the tensioner stuff
 
now this bolt wont hurt anything.....im afraid to ride right now.....my buddy blew his motor this week....let me know.....if you want to try it on my busa let me know.....
 
IT JUST KEEPS IT FROM BEIN ABLE TO UNSCREW.ITS JUST A SPRING LOADED WORM GEAR.THE SCREW SLOT IN THE REAR WILL BE UP AGAINST THE BOLT AND BE HELD BY ITS PRESSUR.BUT DO NOT MAKE IT TIGHT .ONLY A LITTLE TIGHT LIKE 1/4 TURN FROM CONTACT POINT.I'M GOIN TO DO THIS ON MY TURBO MOTOR THIS WEEKEND.THEN EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE LOOSTEN THE NUT THEN THE BOLT AN IT SELF ADJUSTS.THEN RE TIGHTEN AND KEEP GOIN.
 
I would suggest spending the $40 if you want a manual tensioner. The stock tensioner assembly uses a spring loaded screw to move the plunger forward as wear occurs. The screw does not move in and out but, is held captive in the tensioner housing. The screw only rotates. It is the plunger that moves. The only way to keep the screw from turning using a bolt would be to apply enough pressure to push it hard against the retaining cap on the motor side of the tensioner. This cap is only held on by a round retaining clip which is not designed to resist pressure since it is under none in normal operation. If this clip is push off by the force of a bolt against the screw head it goes into the motor. This is not a good way to avoid the cost of a tensioner.
 
Motorhead-your fix sounds interesting. I'm not sure if you have the patience to explain in more detail about this. Does the worm gear put pressure on a spring which pushes on the cam chain guide? How is this worm gear normally locked? Are all the failures due to the worm gear backing out? Sounds like if the spring failed then your fix wouldn't matter? I haven't had the tensioner apart so I don't really understand exactly how it works. I've got a manual tensioner ordered and yesterday I read through the cam timing procedure in the shop manual.
 
I've have heard of two cases here in
Stockholm (Sweden) were the cam chain had
been broken on the -99 Busa (Could that be
the reason for the spring load to be
decreased from 45 lbs. to finally 26 lbs.
on the 3-dot marked.
This will off load the cam chain pressure.

If all the failures are caused by the tensioner adjuster spring being broken or by
spring fatigue and less friction in the
screw construction, allowing the tensioner
to be turned backwards too much so that the chain will jump over one tooth, I don't know.

Mine 1-dot tensioner spring didn't break, I just found out that it will turn backwards when I rock the piston (simulating engine vibration).
Testing the unit has to be done under vibration so that static lock will be released !

Does someone knows for sure that the tensioner spring has failed ?

If you dismantle the unit, measure the distance of the complete screw and piston unit before you take them apart.

Also notice how many turns you have to
back it out before it releases from the
piston, so that you are able to install it properly again.
The screw could be inserted into the piston in two positions !

Also you are able to add some more pressure on the unit ...

I'll hope the new Tensioner is better
( 4-Dot ??)

/Ove
 
Velo,

The spring keeps the plunger on the worm gear extended out(hopefully!). It is designed to allow the worm gear to extend out as chain wear occurs. The worm gear design is to stop the plunger from retracting under load(chain tension).

Motor's idea is sound. Instead of the spring stopping the retraction of the worm gear, you run in the 6 X 1.00 mm bolt until it lightly contacts the back of the worm gear assembly. Thus preventing it from retracting under load. A pseudo "manual" tensioner.

Motor...Do you have surveillance cameras in my shop???? LOL

Dave
 
I haven't had the failure(yet!)but I heard it was the springs that were failing. I dont know if they are breaking or losing tension or what, but if you just put a bolt locking the worm gear in place, I don't think that would protect from the spring breaking? I dont have a clear understanding of how the tensioner works, if the worm gear is holding against the rod and the spring is just holding it all together, then the Mhead bolt method would keep the worm gear from backing out if the spring broke, essentially changing the stock tensioner in to a manual,BUT If the worm gear is keeping the tension on the spring, say; worm gear, then spring, then rod, then guide; and the spring breaks, there will be a big slack in the middle of the tensioner between the worm gear and the rod, so if the back up bolt is backing the worm gear, the rod will still back away from the guide. (I think, I am just guessing and I really don't know $hit so don't flame me :))This is just thinking out loud but I am putting a manual tensioner on my bike just for POM. Ya dig? Any other thoughts?
 
Good reply ABUSA!

I really can't see a timing chain breaking unless the tenioner was too tight.

If a tenioner was too tight and the chain broke, most likely it's going to happen when the motor is on a "down-rev".(coming down from high rpm's over a matter of time)

There are going to guy's that screw their motor up from not putting the manual tenioner in right, and they didn't take the time to understand how to do before they did so..

I personally wouldn't tell anyone how to install it because your going to have that 1 or 2 people that are going to fly through the process, do it wrong and say " I did it just you said".
Nobody wants to carry that on their shoulders!
 
YEP THHATS WHY YA ONLY GO 1-4-1/2 TURN TO KEEP FROM BENDING THE CLIP!!THE CLIP WILL NOT FLING OFF THAT EASY I DID SOME PLAYIN WITH SOME SPARES AND BENT THEM ON PURPOSE TO PROVE THIS POINT!.
 
tommorow i find out how bad the motor is after it blow up for the 2nd time. hope thay have some good answers , my friend said buy the bike for 5000 with the motor down, maybe work out deal and take the 3500 to 4500 and trade for the new gsxr 1000.
 
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