ordering Chain?

mzrsq

Busaless
Donating Member
Registered
If you read my recent posts, I'm in the market for a sprocket and chain. My question is, I have my plate relocated to the swingarm on the chain side of the bike. My hugger with chainguard is trimmed to fit over the plate relocator.

How does changing out sprockets affect rear wheel position?

If the wheel was to be located further forward I would need to do some additonal trimming, if the wheel moves back some, I'd be OK.

The options I'm looking at are
-1 front
+1 rear
-1 front +1 rear

Where would my wheel sit in each of these options?
 
If you read my recent posts, I'm in the market for a sprocket and chain.  My question is, I have my plate relocated to the swingarm on the chain side of the bike.  My hugger with chainguard is trimmed to fit over the plate relocator.

How does changing out sprockets affect rear wheel position?

If the wheel was to be located further forward I would need to do some additonal trimming, if the wheel moves back some, I'd be OK.

The options I'm looking at are
-1 front
+1 rear
-1 front +1 rear

Where would my wheel sit in each of these options?
-1 front = wheel further away
+1 rear = wheel closer
-1 front +1 rear = Should stay about the same distance



<!--EDIT|pipefighter248
Reason for Edit: None given...|1108322783 -->
 
Thanks guys, that information in and of itself may play a factor in my desicion.
 
If you read my recent posts, I'm in the market for a sprocket and chain.  My question is, I have my plate relocated to the swingarm on the chain side of the bike.  My hugger with chainguard is trimmed to fit over the plate relocator.

How does changing out sprockets affect rear wheel position?

If the wheel was to be located further forward I would need to do some additonal trimming, if the wheel moves back some, I'd be OK.

The options I'm looking at are
-1 front
+1 rear
-1 front +1 rear

Where would my wheel sit in each of these options?
With a new chain you can position the sprocket where ever you need to be to clear. The new chain will be cut to fit, try +2 on the rear and add a link or two and your good to go.
wink.gif
 
-1 front will move the axle back about 3/8 inches.
+1 on rear will hardly be noticeable but move axle forward.
-1 front +1 rear will move the axle 1/4 inches back.
-1 front +3 rear will result in no axle movement!
 
Probably a stupid question here. The stock Busa chain is 112 links. When I'm looking at chains they list the chains as 120, 130, 140, I assume this is the number of links. If that's the case, do you order a 120 and remove the extra links or what do you do? I'm really confused here!

Are the chains sold connected, or do you have to buy the tools to connect them? I assume the chain comes with the masterlink if the chain is not connected?

I feel like such a NEWBIE here.
 
Probably a stupid question here.  The stock Busa chain is 112 links.  When I'm looking at chains they list the chains as 120, 130, 140, I assume this is the number of links. If that's the case, do you order a 120 and remove the extra links or what do you do?  I'm really confused here!

Are the chains sold connected, or do you have to buy the tools to connect them?  I assume the chain comes with the masterlink if the chain is not connected?

I feel like such a NEWBIE here.
Yes you remove the extra links. The chain doesn't come connected and its comes with a master link.
 
Probably a stupid question here.  The stock Busa chain is 112 links.  When I'm looking at chains they list the chains as 120, 130, 140, I assume this is the number of links. If that's the case, do you order a 120 and remove the extra links or what do you do?  I'm really confused here!

Are the chains sold connected, or do you have to buy the tools to connect them?  I assume the chain comes with the masterlink if the chain is not connected?

I feel like such a NEWBIE here.
I'm in the market for a chain too. I've been looking for a while for the best prices, maybe you would like to look at Parts411- I've delt with them before and have had good experiences.
 
mzrsq, take it from expereince, if you are going to do the job yourself, get a good chain tool. Will cut the chain down and set the master link rivets properly. Worth the money, should be in every biker tool box. This is one area you don't want to skimp in, wondering, at 150, is my chain done right? If your not comfortable with it, have the shop do it. It's not hard at all, just needs to be done right the first time.
 
Whats the best chain tool to buy? Different types? Aproximate cost?
 
Back
Top