Overheated Part II

[Doc_Busa]

OK, I posted this at sh.org, but I am desperate. Here is the deal...

My turbo busa is overheating quickly when stuck in traffic. It is running engine ice coolant
and appears that the fan does not kick on until it is in the red. The other day when it was
NOT overheating it was puking the blue coolant onto the belly fairing during "normal"
riding. Tonight I got stuck on the strip (Vegas) and it went into the red. I quickly got out of
the traffic and within seconds it went back down.

Some of you may remember that I had a similiar problem with my '01 non-turbo running
Evans.
Some recommended removing the thermostat. Some recommended modifying the
thermostat. Some recommended removing the Evans and going to water/coolant...

Please give me some opinions since I want to RIDE this monster!!!

Thanks in Advance.

 

[TJFAST]

Do you have an intercooler? It might be the turbo blowing all that hot air in. I'm just guessing or run the fan all the time. With the turbo the fan might not keep up with the motor.

 

[MET]

No Turbo should not be making additional heat. Did you purge the system to make sure you have no air in it? I would start with putting in a new thermostat. That fan should kick in just slightly above the mid mark just like a stock motor.

 

[mikeyusf]

yea you need to burp the system to make sure it doesnt have any air. Usually this can be done by putting the bike on center stands, and running the engine at slightly above idle with the radiator cap off, you should see the air bubbles coming out.

This problem is narrowed down to your cooling system, period. Radiator, thermostat, fan switch, coolant, something isnt working right. My fan kicks on when the temperature reaches about halfway, which is about 210 degrees I think.

My money would be on air being in your radiator. Get it to a shop and burp the air out of it

 

[MET]

Just in case you did not get to Motorheads comments yet.

 

[jwcfbd]

I don't know about the overheating part but you said that you are getting coolant in your fairings. This happened to once and I found out that the overflow tube was split at the radiator end.

 

[Frank Adams]

I still tend to think that you have a blown head gasket. It is VERY easy to blow a gasket if you're using a stock head gasket. Especially if your using stock head bolts. Reason why is because when you torque head down with the stock bolts they in some cases will stretch in what I call a candy cane fashion, which is twisting. When that happens you will get a false torque reading which of coarse is not good. This may have been a issue for you right from the get-go after first installing your system. Also the higher compression your bike has, the easier the gasket can be blown.

I would highly reccomend using one of the new o-ring Cometic gaskets, and torque the head to 48pds with the stock bolts.

BUT!

If it were My bike, I would also use APE bolts & nuts. and maybe even lower the compression with a spacer plate.

 

[cache]

Frank is right.

The other day when it was NOT overheating it was puking the blue coolant onto the belly fairing during "normal"
riding.[/QUOTE]

If it was not overheating, but was spitting out coolant, a blown head gasket would cause that..

Blown head gasket can cause a few different problems, one being exhaust forced into the cooling system. In turn, bubbling out coolant. AND then you have air in your cooling system which will cause the thermostat and temp sensor to not operate properly, therefore also no fan kicking on. You get the pic, Doc. Get it checked out before you hurt that monster.

 

[Doc_Busa]

Thanks guys, I do think Frank is right... I just didn't want to admit it... this really stinks, this turbo stuff is even more of a money pit then the regular busa. If I had to do it over, there is NO WAY I would have bought the turbo. Too much headache and cost.

Thanks again.

 

[Frank Adams]

Hey once you get the right parts in the bike, there will be no such thing as a head ache.

 

[cache]

I agree. get it fixed properly, re-tuned, and enjoy it for a long time.

but fix it before I come out!!!! GOTTA play with the turbo!

 

[MET]

Thanks guys, I do think Frank is right...   I just didn't want to admit it...  this really stinks, this turbo stuff is even more of a money pit then the regular busa.   If I had to do it over, there is NO WAY I would have bought the turbo.  Too much headache and cost.

Thanks again.

Doc, don't worry you willget it fixed. Plus you will make out well on the invvestment if you choose.

 

[mikeyusf]

Yea Doc_Busa I feel for ya dood. I know exactly what you're going through. When I started majorly fixing up my 2000 GSXR750, I ran into every problem under the moon. The bike ran perfectly until I started really getting into it. Once I shaved the head, cams, nos, porting and polishing, the bike had major reliability issues. Once I got the engine running, the transmission would go, once I fixed the transmission, it was already time for a new rear tire. After the rear tire the cooling system would start acting up, it was like demons would start at the front, and work their way back. It was a non-stop battle to keep the bike running. Then, after spending thousands on it and got it running right, the spring on the #3 header pipe came off my YOSH system, causing it to rub a hole through my radiator at high speed! The fluid coming out of it almost put me into the curb!

F*ck that, I'm done with aftermarket performance parts. From now on, bone stock, period. I went through the same crap you're going through, and trust me it gets worse

Mike

 

[Doc_Busa]

The bike will go into the shop ASAP! I am hopefull the bill will not be too insane. Wish me luck!

 

[MET]

Best of luck Bro. You will get it going fine.

 

[Doc_Busa]

I dropped it off yesterday. We will see how it goes... Thanks!

 

[Doc_Busa]

I still tend to think that you have a blown head gasket. It is VERY easy to blow a gasket if you're using a stock head gasket. Especially if your using stock head bolts. Reason why is because when you torque head down with the stock bolts they in some cases will stretch in what I call a candy cane fashion, which is twisting. When that happens you will get a false torque reading which of coarse is not good. This may have been a issue for you right from the get-go after first installing your system. Also the higher compression your bike has, the easier the gasket can be blown.

I would highly reccomend using one of the new o-ring Cometic gaskets, and torque the head to 48pds with the stock bolts.

BUT!

If it were My bike, I would also use APE bolts & nuts. and maybe even lower the compression with a spacer plate.

Frank: I just heard from the Motor Head that the stock bolts are STRONGER than APE bolts. He recommends I stay away from the APE studs and bolts. What do you think? It would save me nearly $200 to stick with stock bolts. Now I am really confused... any other opinions?

 

[Frank Adams]

There are pro's & con's with both bolt setups. To get the stock bolts to a torque level thats good for your application will more then likely twist/stretch and give a false reading. And even more so on a setup that has uses a spacer plate.

If the stock bolts keep turning past the point you think they should torque, replace it.

 

[jwcfbd]

I dropped it off yesterday.  We will see how it goes...  Thanks!

Did they find out why your bike keeps overheating?

 

[race24x]

I do believe that if you use new stock bolts each time you will get a true reading from them. The factory counts in some of that twisting. I know this is true on cars I am not sure about bikes I was a GM tech for 9 years. Some cars require you to replace the head bolts any time the head is removed, due to that stretching. I am not sure about which bolts are stronger but Motorhead is very reputable.