pair mod under $10

davidl9953

Registered
parts - 3/4 x 36" steel from home depot - gasket maker silicone from autozone

first i removed the pair setup
then i measured the distance between the 4 pair connections on the motor, marked out the holes on the steel, drilled all holes and then cut down the steel to fit within the motor. i didn't do single block plates because i used a dremel to cut the stell (would have took to long to do). once the holes were lined up i put gasket maker around the holes on the motor, put the plates on, put loctite on the studs, then bolted it down. the hole that is on the air box i just sealed it up, and the hose that comes off of the throttle body, i just put a bolt off of the pair setup to plug it up, then zip tied it to keep it secure.....I think that's about it.... i didn't want to spend 30+ dollars when i could just run to the store and do it myself..... any questions feel free to ask

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what exactly does this benefit? i have no shame in asking when i don't know something. ???
 
what exactly does this benefit? i have no shame in asking when i don't know something. ???

The pair valves pull fresh air from the air box to reduce emmisions and is the cause of approximatley a 1 1/2 to 2 hp loss by robbing air and using vacuum.
 
The pair valves pull fresh air from the air box to reduce emmisions and is the cause of approximatley a 1 1/2 to 2 hp loss by robbing air and using vacuum.
there is no power loss...

This is just a passive AIR system that induces a bit of 02 into the exhaust system to allow any unburned hc's to burn..

The vacuum line is a static vacuum sensor that shuts the "passive" air flow "off" during periods of high manifold vacuum (such as under periods of decel to keep the system from "back firing" out the exhaust pipe..

do save all the parts you take off, you could very well need them some day if your state starts inspecting emission control devices on bikes.. I bought a set of plates for $12 off ebay (new)
 
i never knew what it was or what it's purpose was until i read in on this site, seems like most people take it off... i used to ride a gsxr600 and gsxr750 and it didnt have that, so i figure it wouldnt hurt to take it off, plus my plastics are being painted for my 08 tail conversion so i had nothing else to do.......not sure if i should do the airbox mod or not ??
 
the valve that shuts off the air flow tends to fail on the bikes.. the result is a bike that backfires under deceleration.. it is cheaper to disable the system (although technically Suzuki may be required to fix this under the 5/50 rule) to disable the system, it is just easiest to block off the air line from the right rear corner of the air box with a marble..

I would leave the air box alone unless you are going to have the bike re-tuned.. any modification like that usually comes at the expense of other parts of the power range.. You increase top end power, often you loose low end.. If this is a street ridden bike, low end torque is your friend..
 
there is no power loss...

This is just a passive AIR system that induces a bit of 02 into the exhaust system to allow any unburned hc's to burn..

The vacuum line is a static vacuum sensor that shuts the "passive" air flow "off" during periods of high manifold vacuum (such as under periods of decel to keep the system from "back firing" out the exhaust pipe..

do save all the parts you take off, you could very well need them some day if your state starts inspecting emission control devices on bikes.. I bought a set of plates for $12 off ebay (new)

Actually, if you were to run a bike on the dyno, which I have seen done, b4 and after the pair valve mod, the function of the pair valve does rob the engine of a minor amount of hp during certain stages of the rpm band. As you stated tho, the pair valve does put o2 into the exhaust, BUT, it cannot "BURN" hc's in the exhaust. That in itself is physically impossible. Thus the reason for the pair valve is to MIX fresh air with the unburned gases to lower emissions.
 
i never knew what it was or what it's purpose was until i read in on this site, seems like most people take it off... i used to ride a gsxr600 and gsxr750 and it didnt have that, so i figure it wouldnt hurt to take it off, plus my plastics are being painted for my 08 tail conversion so i had nothing else to do.......not sure if i should do the airbox mod or not ??

In my opinion, only do the air-box mod IF you are planning to re-map the bike. I lost top-end on my bike when I did the mod, BUT, my bike was already mapped with a 4-2-1 yosh, PCIII, TRE and pair mod.
 
MR. Biscuit.......what is this 5/50 rule you spoke of?

p.s. props on the the 10k + posts brother...........
 
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MR. Biscuit.......what is this 5/50 rule you spoke of?

p.s. props on the the 10k + posts brother...........
5 year/50,000 miles is applied to all factory installed emission control devices.. meaning if there is a failure in the system, the manufacturer is obligated under law to fix or replace the system.. tampering with the system of course voids the warranty and it becomes the vehicle owners problem..

I just wanted the toaster :)
 
5 year/50,000 miles is applied to all factory installed emission control devices.. meaning if there is a failure in the system, the manufacturer is obligated under law to fix or replace the system.. tampering with the system of course voids the warranty and it becomes the vehicle owners problem..

I just wanted the toaster :)

So, basically, for most of us, within a day or so of pulling off the showroom floor, we've pretty much voided the warranty...no?:whistle::laugh:
 
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