Planning stages begin

horsinaround930

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I have an 06 LE that I want to start planning to build. I have finally decided what i'd like to do with it after a few months of stock riding. I want to build a drag bike that I can compete with in a mirock series because I'll always be close enough to the events to compete. I also want to stay reliable enough to ride on the street for a weekend ride without problems, regardless of the tuning I would have to do before and after race and I would trailer to and from races in case I break. I plan to run a 2-6" swingarm so I can sun shorter on the street and be able to tune for the track. I would change gearing before and after and would run adjustable links in the rear and strap the front at races and keep near stock handling on the street. I haven't raced this bike at all yet and plan to start next season just running bracket classes as I will be building over the next couple seasons. The things I don't know most have to do with weather I will run nitrous or turbo, and what the engine will need to handle either and still run pump gas. I would like to run in an index class just because the rules are less strict so i'm thinking the crazy 8's class will be my goal for the build when it is done. Now for your help, where do I start, and where do I finish? Any input is welcome and if something sounds like a bad idea let me know. I'm running the shinko stealth right now and plan to get the lowering links and straps next and continue running the stealth until I can get a second wheel for just the track. Does this sound like a good start?
 
1397...cams....headwork....gears...good exhaust...good tune....upper or if your a real good rider mid eights. totatlly reliable for street or strip..and a clutch mod
 
I forgot the clutch mod will also come before it ever launches on a track so that is out of the way along with the lowering of the suspension. will this setup allow me to run pump gas? I would think that a naturally aspirated engine capable of running consistent 8.88 1/4 miles wouldn't be as reliable as running a turbo or nitrous.
 
How much cam and compression would it take roughly? About how much power would a setup like this run? Any products you recommend? What cams would be good for street and strip, would I have to run my engine at a higher rpm on the street to keep it in streetable power? Don't mean to ask too many questions or any stupid questions, just this will be my first fully built drag bike and I come from a dirt track late model background as far as my race experience so this a completely different world for me.
 
mild cams maybe some Webs. 13/1 compression JEpistons or wiseco. power comparable to a stocker with delivery just much harder. Make about 200-210 or a little more depending on your builder or tuner. I'm not a mechanic but I know this works for me:laugh:
 
Cool. I kind of wanted to go the nitrous route anyway rather than turbo just because It would leave less to work on as long as I used the nitrous responsibly. I wanna get pretty deep into this after a few years and this bike will end up strictly racing one day so I want to go a direction where I don't have to rebuy stuff that I can prevent. I'm not very educated on nitrous tech, but do they run on lower compression bikes like turbos? What do you look for in the cam department for nitrous?
 
Since I haven't went nitrous myself yet you'd be better off asking someone on the nitrous section here. I'm a nitrous virgin.:laugh:
 
Many many questions at a time

My story with same aims:

To start :
First to do is clutchmod
For what you plan ,get a second rear wheel with shinko and some Sprocket carryers
Change links for rear ,strap her in front , maybe a dragseat
Thats fast to rebuild for street use , and all you need to get in the 9s

And then >>>>>>>>> seat time

Took me a season to hit the 9.92 with short bike on stock engine (K1 Busa)
60s are the game ,not the gentleman from japan

This year i was 4" over and my first season in a bracket class
because of my bad 60s but constant :laugh:(always about 1.65) I hit constant 9.6x

I always dial in 9.58 (hope to hit it :please:) , and then run in a range of 9.61 to 9.72 n 7 out of 10 runs

Thats not more than 1k bucks and i use it still on curvy streets.

the 888 you aim at will cost you much more ,but without seat time you wont see them even on a 300HP Busa.
Get as much launches as possible and youll see what you need .:thumbsup:
 
Having a fast bike and racing it with wins are easier said than done...whatever you do be safe and have fun
 
horsinaround930 if you dont mind me asking...... how much do you weigh?


If I was looking to build a consistent 8 sec bike on motor I would definately do what bisquit61 suggested

1397...cams....headwork....gears...good exhaust...good tune....upper or if your a real good rider mid eights. totatlly reliable for street or strip.

minus the clutch mod...I would spend the extra coin and get a Rock Solid Clutch setup soo you can run it in hand slider at the track and regular clutch on the street. You get someone like Rearick Racing to setup th clutch for you and you will be set. Another thought is if you gonna go go to a 1397cc drop the extra grand and 1441cc it.

. Make about 200-210 or a little more depending on your builder or tuner.:

This is a very true statement!! If you want it done right then get with someone who really knows the busa!! My tuner has been racing busas since 99 when they came out!! He has spent a fortune over the years running different cams,degreeing them different ways,compression changes,head worksuspension work,clutch setups, etc,etc,etc!!! If you are in the central texas area holla at me. Ill get you intouch with him. I can tell you I have seen his cam-only setups make 193-195whp on motor 255-265whp on 60 shot. They just dynoed a stock headed 1397cc he did years ago. Owner finally got it tuned and it made 219whp/123wtq. With it geared for nitrous it went 8.8@152 on motor. He is a good guy and lives at the track so he is always down for helping out with things.



From what I have seen around here weight plays a big roll in how fast the bike is..... but also the air,humidity,sea level blah blah blah all changes what bike do in different locations. ie requiring more power,suspension etc to reach your goal!!


You will see that some things work for some while it doesnt for others. As soon as I stretched my bike the stock shock went to crap!! It would squat so hard that even with a tiger tail it rubbed. I dropped the coin for the penske shock so I would not have to **** with buying stock shock after stock shock {shimming,springing and revalving} a stock shock for it to fail. Mind you Im 230lbs unsuited!!

Its like they told me when I came on here talking about fast plans!!! Welcome to the forum and get ready to spent some money!!!! I dont want you to misunderstand what Im saying!! You dont have to buy the best of everything to get the job done!! I have seen bare bones stuff move the beep beep OUT!!

A suggestion is to go to the track near you and see what the locals are running. Maybe talk to them alittle and see of they will give you a idea of what they have done and what they run so you have a idea of what it will take you to acheive your goal!! Just dont watch what a 140lb rider does if your 230lb because you will never reach that with the same mods!! Little skinny bastards LOL jk!!!

Aside from that................... man have fun!!! I started racing my 03 Busa may of these year and just cant get enough of it!! I too have 8 sec plans. I kinda went the reverse route by doing a fuel system,penske shock and RSM clutch. But after making some passes on my bike I knew I would be addicted and looking to go really fast. So they were things I needed.
 
Hey,hey,hey...I'm one of those skinny bastards!!:laugh:

Lucky mofo!!!


I like watching our track pro rider ride his swb gen 2 with pipe,tune,lowered and strapped run 8.8's@157 then jump on my buddies bone stock 05 LE in 15-20 mph crosswind and run 9.96@141.......... Warms the heart to know I will never be that light!!:banghead:
 
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