Possible starter problem

vinnycr2

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Took my bike out last Friday. Hadn't been started in about a week.

Battery was bought new in June this year from Walmart.

Started up with strong cranking and fired up immediately.

I drive to the gas station a few miles away it started fine. I go down the highway for about a 15 mile ride to the seafood store. Come out of the store 5 minutes later and the bike is cranking like it has a weak battery and won't start.

I tried about a half dozen times until it sounded just about completely dead. I didn't crank it constantly just a few seconds at a time.

I call a neighbor to take me home to get my portable battery to start it. When I get back to the bike I tried again before jump starting it. It cranked over and fired up like it had a new battery.

I hadn't started it since then. This morning it cranked strong and fired up immediately.

I tested the battery before starting it. 12.2 volts

Fully warmed up at idle 14.2 volts.

Fully warmed up at 5,000 rpm 13.8 volts.

On a car the starter solenoid acts the same way. I'm sure a few here have used the tap the starter solenoid trick on there cars to get it started.

I searched through the starter threads but didn't find a fix or similar topic.

Am I looking at the same scenario with the starter motor or solenoid on my bike? I'll check the connections to the starter motor when I get a chance but that doesn't seem likely and use the shop manual to try and diagnose the problem.

Vinny
 
Vin,
Make sure the positive and Negative connections on both ends are tight. Battery/ground/starter...
 
Has the starter been upgraded to the 03 and newer one
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I think your problem is here! Battery was bought new in June this year from Walmart. Walmart has good stuff but i know the Zuki Bandit 1200 had to have a top shelf battery, sealed and with the cranking amps or this would happen shortly after it was installed. Don't have a bud you can borrow one from for a test ? Does W Mart have sealed ones now? The none, vented type will make a mess!  
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Brendan,

The connections to the starter and ground seem to be the only logical thing right now.

I won't have time until probably next week end to pull the side panel off and check them.

Rich I'm not sure if the starter has been upgraded. I'm the 3rd owner and the guy I bought it off of didn't mention it.

Lee I can't see it being the battery. It tested 12.2 volts before I started it today and 14.2 at idle fully warmed up and 13.8 at 5,000 rpm's.

If there was any problem with the battery it would have showed up testing the charging system. The battery has to be be pretty close to 100% when testing the charging system ( according to the shop manual ).

One note to add I put a battery tender on it and showed fully charged in about 10 minutes.

Vinny
 
If you have a volt meter and 10 minutes you can do a voltage drop on the battery cables to see if it is a battery or a cable problem.

The meter is set to a low voltage setting, usually to a 3 volt DC setting and the meter probes are put on the ends of the cable to be tested. Then a load, in this case, the starter is activated and the meter observed. Any voltage above 1.5v DC indicates that there is excessive resistance in the wire and it should be replaced. If you are using an analog meter and the needle swings backwards you have the leads reversed. Go from the positive lug to the starter relay and test then from the relay to the starter test again and dont forget the ground cable(s).
 
When the engine is still hot, there is more resistance for the battery to overcome. I had the same problem a couple years ago, I'd be stranded until the bike cooled all the way down.

But ever since I bought a high output battery, I haven't had any problems. A high output battery puts out 235 cold ranking amps while the stock battery puts out 175 cold cranking amps. Both at the same voltage.
 
+1, you need a stronger battery. engine and starter gets hot and starter needs more battery power to overcome the resistance
 
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