Preliminary dyno pass

G

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With the ECU reset to +10,+10,+10 we did one pull. PC2 is coming with a custom map, but not here yet. 181 HP and 113 TQ. Needs a lot more fuel. Looks like 190HP/120TQ with a stock pipe is more than possible.
 
When you start guoteing large numbers like that you need to answer a few basic questions to avoid being flamed.

What are ALL your mods?

What model dyno?

Corrected for altitude, temp and baro pressure?

SAE or STD HP?

4th gear rollon or another method?

Can you post the graphs, torque and HP somewhere we can see.

Thanx man. Sounds like a helluva bike.
 
He doesnt need to answer **** , his mods have been discussed previously.
Unbelievable torque Tom, good luck.
 
Lyle. Its cool. List of mods follows;

4mm Wiescos
Cometic head gasket
3mm Falicon stroker crank (=1500cc)
Carillo's
Flowed head
Stainless valves (stock sizes)
Web Cams I-.395"/244@.050" E-.378"/244@.050
APE valvesprings/ti retainers
Airbox mod - stock filter
Adjustable cam sprockets
Manual adjuster
Fuel pressure increased
Remapped ECU
Stock pipe (completely stock)
Stock throttle bodies

We did another run with the ECU remapped to +10 +10 +9 to get an idea just how lean it is. Lost 11 HP. Theres a bunch of power left, but it will take the PC2 to get it. Peak HP was at 9000. As for the particulars of the dyno pull, I havent been to the shop to pick it up, but I will try to post it this weekend.

[This message has been edited by Tom McQueen (edited 30 June 2000).]
 
Top like I said that yosh box is no good once you can breath.
My plugs are still white at +5+10+10
Have PC2 now I need time to install.
Which method did you use on the head? E-mail me if you want.

[This message has been edited by Johnnycheese (edited 30 June 2000).]
 
One pull? I assume you engine was already at operating temperature, a single dyno run will not achieve proper running temp.
 
stock pipes and box and filter costs about 18 horse on that motor.helll it was worth 14 on my stock motor so its gotta cost you that.but sleepers are fun!
 
GIXXER - The crank is a welded up stroker. For a normally aspirated street motor, they will hold up fine. If youre gonna turbo or spray the motor, stick with the stock stroke or step up to a billet. I had mine done last November by Falicon, and I believe it took 4-5 weeks and cost in the $850 range. I know now that APE is also performing this work and Johnnycheese has had them do one for him. Maybe he can share the cost and turnaround time he experienced. Cometic has a good selection of diferrent thickness cylinder spacers available. Muzzy offers a 3mm welded stroker crank for the ZX-11 in his catalog, but Im not sure who is actually doing the crank work.
 
jeff - the bike was at full temp. it wasnt meant to be a complete test, just a peek at where we are.

rob - Once the fuel curve and timing are optimized, I expect to be in the low 190's with the stock pipe. Im probably giving up a solid 7-10 hp at this level by staying with the stock pipe. At this point I dont think Ill miss it.

johnnyc - stroker motors are where its at. on the street, torque is king.
 
Tom, try advancing your tps to richen it up even more...
Also try pulling the lid off your airbox just to see if your # gets any better(higher)?
 
Sounds like a helluva machine Tom. Thanx for the info on the bike.

Is "manual adjuster" the APE manual cam chain adjuster?
 
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