OB_Bill Collins
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they want you to rotate the engine forward when ajusting I would think this should be done by hand? If so where can can you rotate the crank .
question on manual tenisner install
- Thread starter OB_Bill Collins
- Start date
OB_cbxchris
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Bill not telling you what to do but if you have to ask that question get some help...better safe than sorry...don`t take this wrong only trying to help....if you insist....take off the right side of your fairing....on the crank end of cases you will see a large round plug with a large allen ...unscrew it and a 14mm will do the job...the smaller one above will allow you to see when you are on TDC....GOOD LUCK
OB_NumbNuts
Registered
Just put bike on paddock/centre stand, take plugs out, put into second gear and turn wheel correct way (make sure it is the correct way!! back of wheel goes UP). You'll feel it when the valves springs are not exerting any force, thus you can screw in the adjuster by hand.
Nuts
Nuts
Bill
I assume you're taking the rocker cover off first to check the cam timing? Remove the plugs mentioned, (10mm allen + smaller size -can't remember) turn the engine with a socket wrench on the 14mm bolt on the end of the crank until the line on the starter clutch (visible through the small inspection hole) lines up with the notch in the bottom of the hole.
Now look at your cams. there should be an arrow on the exhaust cam with a No. 1 on it. the arrow should be parallel with the edge of the head. You may have to turn the engine over again to see this.
There is a No 2 and an arrow on the exhaust cam, and a No 3 and an arrow on the inlet cam these arrows should point at 90 degrees to the head. if you count the cam chain pins, starting with the one next to arrow 2 (this is pin 1)- the pin next to arrow 3 will be PIN 15.
This ensures that you are at TDC when you start, and that your cam timing is right. the important thing is to check it again once you've installed the tensioner.
With the engine at TDC, remove the old tensioner, and put in the manual. Screw the bolt it until you feel resistance, then turn the engine over with the wrench, whilst screwing in the tensioner bolt by hand. when the tensioner has gone as far as it is going to, back it out 1/4 turn, and tighten the lock-nut.
This is as far as the instructions go on the tensioner, but it seems that most people (me included) then put the bike together, start the engine, and fine tune.
The way I did it was to back the tensioner out until the cam chain begins to rattle, then screw the tensioner in until it stops. This is actually more difficult than it sounds, because if you blip the throttle, the chain will probably rattle on the over-run when you close it. What I did was to blip the throttle whilst screwing the tensioner in, until the rattle JUST stops. Then I tightened the tensioner slightly moer (maybe 16th of a turn?) nad did up the lock-nut. It may sound obvious, but make sure you're listening to the right thing! - there are numerous brackets and things which can rattle when you rev the engine.
two tips I found:
i) If the tensioner bolt becomes too hot to hold, use a 16mm socket over the end, and turn that by hand
ii) use a thin steel rod with a point (I used a scriber) to count the links, as it is difficult to get a straight view of the chain.
Sorry for the long post
Good Luck!
DD
I assume you're taking the rocker cover off first to check the cam timing? Remove the plugs mentioned, (10mm allen + smaller size -can't remember) turn the engine with a socket wrench on the 14mm bolt on the end of the crank until the line on the starter clutch (visible through the small inspection hole) lines up with the notch in the bottom of the hole.
Now look at your cams. there should be an arrow on the exhaust cam with a No. 1 on it. the arrow should be parallel with the edge of the head. You may have to turn the engine over again to see this.
There is a No 2 and an arrow on the exhaust cam, and a No 3 and an arrow on the inlet cam these arrows should point at 90 degrees to the head. if you count the cam chain pins, starting with the one next to arrow 2 (this is pin 1)- the pin next to arrow 3 will be PIN 15.
This ensures that you are at TDC when you start, and that your cam timing is right. the important thing is to check it again once you've installed the tensioner.
With the engine at TDC, remove the old tensioner, and put in the manual. Screw the bolt it until you feel resistance, then turn the engine over with the wrench, whilst screwing in the tensioner bolt by hand. when the tensioner has gone as far as it is going to, back it out 1/4 turn, and tighten the lock-nut.
This is as far as the instructions go on the tensioner, but it seems that most people (me included) then put the bike together, start the engine, and fine tune.
The way I did it was to back the tensioner out until the cam chain begins to rattle, then screw the tensioner in until it stops. This is actually more difficult than it sounds, because if you blip the throttle, the chain will probably rattle on the over-run when you close it. What I did was to blip the throttle whilst screwing the tensioner in, until the rattle JUST stops. Then I tightened the tensioner slightly moer (maybe 16th of a turn?) nad did up the lock-nut. It may sound obvious, but make sure you're listening to the right thing! - there are numerous brackets and things which can rattle when you rev the engine.
two tips I found:
i) If the tensioner bolt becomes too hot to hold, use a 16mm socket over the end, and turn that by hand
ii) use a thin steel rod with a point (I used a scriber) to count the links, as it is difficult to get a straight view of the chain.
Sorry for the long post
Good Luck!
DD
OB_NumbNuts
Registered
saves me typing it!!
Cheers Dave
Nuts
Cheers Dave
Nuts
OB_Bill Collins
Registered
Hey guys thanks for the help.I was just trying to make sure.When I tried to turn the bolt on the end of the crank it almost felt like the bolt was going to stretch and possibly break dont need that crap.anyway I adjusted liked I did on my 900kaw rotated the crank by hand while I took slack out of the chain took about six complete turns while tuning the bolt on tenisner by hand then backed off A 1/4 turn.I think that should do it.
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