Questions Before The Build / Dyno

[Blkoutbusa]

Ok, so I have built bikes before, and my most recent 2006 GSXR 1000 made good power so I have an idea of what direction I wanna go.

2012 Hayabusa is the bike I am overhauling this winter.

The biggest things I am for sure on are: Brock's Alienhead 2 already on, Sprint air filter is on order.

Questions on things I have always been on the fence about:

Short velocity stacks, are they beneficial for a DD street bike? I saw good results on the 1000 but wasn't sure how the Busa will react to them.

87 vs 93 octane? I have always ran and had my bikes tuned on 93, but I have heard 87 can yield more power? Since its a basically stock motor I have heard this is ok to run and tune on for more power.

Pair delete vs Pair Sucker: I have watched my own 1000 back to back runs gain almost 3hp, wasn't sure how the Busa faired with the sucker mod versus just deleting the system.

Any input or real experience on this is welcome! This will be a daily ridden street bike that RARELY sees the track / strip. But more power is always fun. Not getting inside the motor for now, and most I would prob get into would be head / cams at a later date.

 

[1busa]

Can only speak from personal experience because I'm not an "Engine" guy.

Almost everyone does the pair valve delete on a Busa

Bought the billet pro velocity short stacks and my Engine builder/tuner didn't like them @ all and switched them out. The billet 1's are very hard to get a proper seal onto the air box and Stay properly sealed on the air box....

I've Run 93 in every motorcycle I've ever owned. Look in the drag race forums and such and you'll see different opinions on it. Kinda like motor oil..... Everybody has a preference and swears they have the right opinion. Whatever you choose to have to bike tuned on make sure you stick to it cause it can make a difference. Don't tune on 93 and then run 87 and vice versa.

If your gonna touch the motor grab it all the way! Adding cams or just a port n polish will not yield you 20+HP like some claim or advertise....... A lot of "Dyno Games" are being played with to make customers happy looking @ a piece of paper and a chart but real world HP to the back tire will not reflect it. It's like baking a cake gotta use a combination of all the right ingredients to wind up with a masterpiece

When I built my Busa I had 1 goal in mind.... a street killer! Focused on doing Mods and upgrades that would benefit me on the street just not in a straight line for an 1/8 mile. Why spend $2500 on 5 rear wheel HP when you can spend that money to lighten the bike up 25 pounds, braking and suspension Mods. Things you will actually feel and notice 5 mins after getting on the bike.

 

[Blkoutbusa]

Totally agree! I am not chasing a certain HP #. I know that the dyno is a tuning tool, and that HP is only a number so to speak. And the head and cams would be a maybe in a few years..maybe.

I am also doing other stuff to the bike. Some cosmetic things, but I'd like to respring the front for my weight and get the suspension tuned to me. Just looking for some feedback like you gave on some of the things I have been tossing around in my head.

 

[sixpack577]

Pm PirateDiver
I think he still has short stacks on his gen2 and liked the result.

An ecu flash, with or without a dyno tune, doesn't matter, is the cheapest performance you can get, that you can actually feel.

And, most definately, have the suspension sag set, regardless of your riding style or ability.

 

[Blkoutbusa]

ECU flash is def happening. Then after all the mods are done, dyno tune the ECU to get it running optimal.

 

[GIXERHP]

After my experience with my gen2 , Ecu reflash with the Woolich Log Box Pro and a wide band O2 sensor is the way to go.
Tune the bike on the fly, and and ride it like you stole it.
Upload all changes, and you'll be amazed at how far you can get the bike before it hits the Dyno.
As for fuel, Gne 2 needs the 93 octane, you can tune a Gen 1 on 87 But not recommended for a Gen 2

 

[busakiller]

After my experience with my gen2 , Ecu reflash with the Woolich Log Box Pro and a wide band O2 sensor is the way to go.
Tune the bike on the fly, and and ride it like you stole it.
Upload all changes, and you'll be amazed at how far you can get the bike before it hits the Dyno.
As for fuel, Gne 2 needs the 93 octane, you can tune a Gen 1 on 87 But not recommended for a Gen 2

This right here is what you want to do. Get the woolich. That will help you fine tune the bike and really get the most out of it. Tune the bike on 93 so you can add timing. You must delete the pair valve. As that will mess up your tune/tuning.

 

[POWERHOUSE]

Short velocity stacks, are they beneficial for a DD street bike? I saw good results on the 1000 but wasn't sure how the Busa will react to them.

87 vs 93 octane? I have always ran and had my bikes tuned on 93, but I have heard 87 can yield more power? Since its a basically stock motor I have heard this is ok to run and tune on for more power.

Pair delete vs Pair Sucker: I have watched my own 1000 back to back runs gain almost 3hp, wasn't sure how the Busa faired with the sucker mod versus just deleting the system.

Any input or real experience on this is welcome! This will be a daily ridden street bike that RARELY sees the track / strip. But more power is always fun. Not getting inside the motor for now, and most I would prob get into would be head / cams at a later date.

Short stacks, top end, long stacks, low and mid. I would stay with the mixed stacks the bike comes with. The PAIR sucker mod you refer to will also give you around 3 more rear wheel with a Busa, but sometimes issues with oil pressure at idle, so be careful with this one. Deleting the PAIR entirely does not affect hp either way.

Flash the ecu for derestricting, disabling top speed limiter, disabling PAIR solenoid, raising rev limit, optimizing timing, changing fan temps, secondary throttle mapping, etc. Forget about the ECU when it comes to fuel tuning, either through Editor or Woolich. Both a waste of a lot of time and not as precise as a good custom dyno tune through a PC, IMO. Been there and done that with several bikes. Better throttle response, mid range, overall hp and torque, and absolutely straight air/fuel lines with a PC and competent tuner.

Keep in mind there are different approaches out there, think it through and ask questions. There is a lot of experience on this board and many who have already gone down the road you are considering. However you get there, a good result is the goal . . .

BTW, POWERHOUSE is still flashing Ecus for org members for only $50, probably one of the best things you can do for that amount . . .

 

[Blkoutbusa]

Short stacks, top end, long stacks, low and mid. I would stay with the mixed stacks the bike comes with. The PAIR sucker mod you refer to will also give you around 3 more rear wheel with a Busa, but sometimes issues with oil pressure at idle, so be careful with this one. Deleting the PAIR entirely does not affect hp either way.

Flash the ecu for derestricting, disabling top speed limiter, disabling PAIR solenoid, raising rev limit, optimizing timing, changing fan temps, secondary throttle mapping, etc. Forget about the ECU when it comes to fuel tuning, either through Editor or Woolich. Both a waste of a lot of time and not as precise as a good custom dyno tune through a PC, IMO. Been there and done that with several bikes. Better throttle response, mid range, overall hp and torque, and absolutely straight air/fuel lines with a PC and competent tuner.

Keep in mind there are different approaches out there, think it through and ask questions. There is a lot of experience on this board and many who have already gone down the road you are considering. However you get there, a good result is the goal . . .

BTW, POWERHOUSE is still flashing Ecus for org members for only $50, probably one of the best things you can do for that amount . . .

Might have to take you up on that! My tuner is more expensive....

ECU flash is for sure in the cards.