Questions On My Turbo Build, With Pics, Need Input...

[Road Weazel]

I have recently purchased a '99 Hayabusa with a Hahn Turbo, Water Injection and a Halmeter AF30 gauge. I apparently misunderstood the seller and thought it was a Port Fueller but it is not. I have two fuel pumps and two inlets into the fuel rail. Most of the build documentation is lost but I have some and it would appear that the larger fuel pump will run up to 80 PSI or higher as RPM increases. I found a note in my pile of paperwork that suggests 46 PSI of fuel pressure at 2K RPM, 60 PSI of fuel pressure at 4K RPM, and 76 PSI at 6K RPM. The injectors appear to be stock. I have a PC II but I don't have the input cable so I may be switching over to a PC III USB. I have fouled my sparkplugs in only 3 tanks of gas or so, all highway riding with very few short bursts on the boost. The Halmeter always reads 'full rich'. I have leaned out the mix on the PC II with the push-buttons and I'm thinking about lowering the fuel pressure on the bigger pump. I'll watch the A/F meter carefully on my test ride. I'll schedule some dyno time in the near future for a better tune.

Big Fuel Pump - I'm guessing that the screw and locknut on the top is the pressure adjustment?

Second Fuel Inlet to Fuel Rail

Smaller Fuel Pump

On to the Water Injection.
The water pump is directly in front of the ram air duct, I would guess for cooling. Does it need to be here? I'd like to move it under the tail cowl where the charcoal canister currently resides. Changing #3 and #4 sparkplugs is a real PITA with the pump where it currently resides. Would there be any issues with moving it to a place where it gets less direct air flow?

Thanx in advance,
Weazel

 

[OZBooster]

Ok thats a fairly typical Hahn setup
That first pic is the fuel pressure regulator, don't adjust it
if your rich use the powercommander,
BUT don't use the AF30 as the basis for any changes, its a narrow band sensor,
you could use it only as a warning your going lean, if it shows rich your good, if it shows through the middle your too lean and if it shows lean your motor is toast
i would aim for rich flicking occasionaly to the rich end of the green range as a safe reading .

you can move the water pump , they also fit neatly under the side of the tailpiece

 

[Road Weazel]

YOU, sir, are a WEALTH of information.
Thanx for the input!
Weazel

 

[Road Weazel]

I'm scratching my head trying to figure out what changed to make it foul plugs. I can't imagine that the previous owners changed plugs every three or four tanks of fuel. The previous owner just did a valve inspection, so I'm wondering if he could have installed something incorrectly to cause the issue.
There's a check-valve feeding the pressure regulator and in it's current position will allow pressure to get to the reg but not vacuum. I'm guessing that makes sense.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Weazel

 

[POWERHOUSE]

That first picture is of your rising-rate fuel regulator (FMU), as OZ said. The big screw in the center is for the IDLING fuel pressure. You should adjust that so when you are idling, the fuel pressure is at 43 pounds. The gold screw on a right angle is the "bleed" screw. This screw controls the rate of gain. Turn it in (clockwise) until it seats (GENTLY!), then turn it out 1/2 turn. I recommend that you get a PCV on it, and get it to a dyno for tuning. I also recommend that you KEEP the PCII, zero out its fuel map, and use it to retard the timing slightly on top. Because you have a 99, there is no good way to pull timing, since you cannot get into the ECU and nobody I am aware of makes a box for this. That is why you should hold on to the PCII - just for the timing adjustment. Get a PCV on it and get the fuel map done properly . . . .

 

[dadofthree]

Best of luck with it

 

[Road Weazel]

That first picture is of your rising-rate fuel regulator (FMU), as OZ said. The big screw in the center is for the IDLING fuel pressure. You should adjust that so when you are idling, the fuel pressure is at 43 pounds. The gold screw on a right angle is the "bleed" screw. This screw controls the rate of gain. Turn it in (clockwise) until it seats (GENTLY!), then turn it out 1/2 turn. I recommend that you get a PCV on it, and get it to a dyno for tuning. I also recommend that you KEEP the PCII, zero out its fuel map, and use it to retard the timing slightly on top. Because you have a 99, there is no good way to pull timing, since you cannot get into the ECU and nobody I am aware of makes a box for this. That is why you should hold on to the PCII - just for the timing adjustment. Get a PCV on it and get the fuel map done properly . . .

Thanx for the reply, Frank.
When you say PCV I'm guessing that you mean a PC-V (five) and not a positive crankcase vent. Dyno-Jet does not list a V for the '99, just the III-USB. I was already thinking about the need for adjustablity on the ignition timing. With the III-USB I would need a hub and the timing module. Would upgrading to a used PC-IIIr be a better choice, or just keep the II? Either way, I bought a serial port cable tonight so I'll try to get my laptop to talk to the PC-II tomorrow.
Dadofthree, thanx for the positive vibes also!
Thanx,
Weazel

 

[POWERHOUSE]

Thanx for the reply, Frank.
When you say PCV I'm guessing that you mean a PC-V (five) and not a positive crankcase vent. Dyno-Jet does not list a V for the '99, just the III-USB. I was already thinking about the need for adjustablity on the ignition timing. With the III-USB I would need a hub and the timing module. Would upgrading to a used PC-IIIr be a better choice, or just keep the II? Either way, I bought a serial port cable tonight so I'll try to get my laptop to talk to the PC-II tomorrow.
Dadofthree, thanx for the positive vibes also!
Thanx,
Weazel

Yes, you're right, there is no PC-V for a 99. Go with the PCIIIUSB, and keep the PCII to take care of the timing issue . . .