Quickshift sensor for power commander V

[Oldtimermick]

I have a 2006 with power commander V and need to know if the Dano’s sensor will will work to have quickshift?
I asked the site and they said I would need an expansion module but I thought that was only needed for the Gen2 .
Has anyone used one of these sensors on power commander V with success? The link for the sensor is.

Quick Shifter Switch

Any help or advice will be much appreciated.

 

[Berlin Germany]

hi @Oldtimermick

if i were you i wouldn´t install a QS

if it is not adjusted 100% perfectly and/or used not in abs. perfect menor it can cause these damages - the owner of that bike (trans) had to pay around 1000 € for parts only to fix it + ~12 hours of work.

to avoid that damages for sure an undercut (see circle) at the "docks" is necessary

(special costs for the undercutted gears is around 400-500 €)

will be 1/10 of a second be worth it if you shift gears without QS but with standard clutch (lever) ?

i would say - no.

so leave the qs in dealers shelf and save that money for other investitions

 

[Oldtimermick]

hi @Oldtimermick

if i were you i wouldn´t install a QS

if it is not adjusted 100% perfectly and/or used not in abs. perfect menor it can cause these damages - the owner of that bike (trans) had to pay around 1000 € for parts only to fix it + ~12 hours of work.

to avoid that damages for sure an undercut (see circle) at the "docks" is necessary
View attachment 1634179
(special costs for the undercutted gears is around 400-500 €)

will be 1/10 of a second be worth it if you shift gears without QS but with standard clutch (lever) ?

i would say - no.

so leave the qs in dealers shelf and save that money for other investitions

I agree totally that if not adjusted correctly it will do serious damage, but if it’s set with a long enough time to do the shift fully and safely there is less chance of gear damage. An example is on some other bikes I have had in the past I would get a little cocky and do a fast shift while distracted and throttle on with clutch out before the full shift occurred. That’s when damage happens. I know it’s different but I had air shift on my GSXR1100 back in the eighties for drag racing and it never damaged anything for years. As I said I know air shift is different but it’s not the time saving between shifts that I am after, it’s the positive shift with full power that I want. I won’t be adjusting it to the smallest time frame possible because that is taking a risk. A long enough safe time frame is the way I will set it up. Thanks for the advice though, much appreciated.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Oldtimermick

all right - your experiences seem to protect you from harm/damages.
good luck 4 the future

but i stick in hating the qs for the use at roads because I've been riding bikes for almost exactly 45 years and have never missed a QS .

however, what has always bothered me a lot is the need to somehow thread your foot under the shift lever when shifting gears (up or down - no matter).

to prevent this, I have been thinking about and trying for a long time to develop a so-called double shift-lever (á la honda "dax") so that I can work with my heel when shifting gears and no longer have to thread under the lever.

but all of my previous "solutions" have never been satisfactory - they have all been too shaky so far, which means they were too unstable and therefore too imprecise.

should someone have found a good or even perfect solution, please send / post here a picture or even a dimensioned drawing so that I can recreate it.

thanks 4 that in advance

 

[Oldtimermick]

@Oldtimermick

all right - your experiences seem to protect you from harm/damages.
good luck 4 the future

but i stick in hating the qs for the use at roads because I've been riding bikes for almost exactly 45 years and have never missed a QS .

however, what has always bothered me a lot is the need to somehow thread your foot under the shift lever when shifting gears (up or down - no matter).

to prevent this, I have been thinking about and trying for a long time to develop a so-called double shift-lever (á la honda "dax") so that I can work with my heel when shifting gears and no longer have to thread under the lever.

but all of my previous "solutions" have never been satisfactory - they have all been too shaky so far, which means they were too unstable and therefore too imprecise.

should someone have found a good or even perfect solution, please send / post here a picture or even a dimensioned drawing so that I can recreate it.

thanks 4 that in advance

Yeah, wearing boots makes it harder to feel the shifts, that’s why most of the time I wear thongs on the bike. Have done for many years now and much better feel of the shift lever.

 

[busakiller]

If it’s a gen 1 busa yes it will work.

 

[Oldtimermick]

If it’s a gen 1 busa yes it will work.

Thanks busakiller, do you know if they are any good at all please? It’s just that they are much cheaper than the dynojet one but if they don’t work as good I won’t get it.
Thanks again mate.

 

[busakiller]

I haven’t used them yet. But I’m curious how good they are. I’m tempted to get one. Curious how it works for you.

 

[Oldtimermick]

I haven’t used them yet. But I’m curious how good they are. I’m tempted to get one. Curious how it works for you.

If I get one I will let you know how it goes.

 

[Mythos]

Danno's works with ECU Editor. I don't know that it will work with the PC5 quickshifter function. For the PC5, I'm quite sure the switch needs to be open at rest and closes when you make the shift. The PC5 needs the switch to connect to ground when the switch is closed.

This recnt thread might help.

Quick shifter question | Gen 2 Busa Information

I was doing some reading on quick shifters and found out about being able to set one up thru the ecu. I think I've decided my buddy and I are gonna split the cost and and get a flash kit from Greg but while reading i seen someone say you could use different quickshifters to send the signal. My...

www.hayabusa.org

 

[Mythos]

Ask DynoJet. They won't know about Danno's but they will know what kind of switch is required. Make sure the person you talk to knows what they are talking about. Sometimes they seem a little iffy or that they are in a hurry. I might try to talk to someone more knowledgeable than the average tech support guy. That has been my experience in the past.

 

[Berlin Germany]

hey men,
you ever heard of "Tellert" qs ?
see here what they offer.

a youtuber named jan stecher, near hamburg, offers this qs as the best of all (his experiances)

hmmm - i trust him but i have no clue how to install etc. - a bit more knowlegde of electronics is necessary

tellert say that for the suzukis you need a special kit or you get the FI lamp glueing - ignition is stopped for shifting.
at the models later than ´07 / ´08 the ecm can be flashed against that fault what means that the special suzuki-kit is no more nec. but the standard tellert is sufficiant then.

and
jan shows a video of an old ´78 suzuki gs 750 with the tellert and trying it at his testbench looked really nice - he shifted up through all gears without turning (closing) the throttle grip and that worked nice.
see here his video (sorry in german - scroll forward to minute 14:00 to see how he shifted and watch same time his right hand )

 

[Oldtimermick]

Danno's works with ECU Editor. I don't know that it will work with the PC5 quickshifter function. For the PC5, I'm quite sure the switch needs to be open at rest and closes when you make the shift. The PC5 needs the switch to connect to ground when the switch is closed.

This recnt thread might help.

Quick shifter question | Gen 2 Busa Information

I was doing some reading on quick shifters and found out about being able to set one up thru the ecu. I think I've decided my buddy and I are gonna split the cost and and get a flash kit from Greg but while reading i seen someone say you could use different quickshifters to send the signal. My...

www.hayabusa.org

Yeah Dano,s switch will work with PC5 ( I found out by emailing them) you just put the two wires from the switch in port 4 and port 5 in the PC5. Doesn’t matter which wire in which port because the port 4 and port 5 are waiting for continuity from the switch to cutout engine.
But what I would like to know is how good and reliable are the Dano’s switches?
They are cheap but is there a reason?
Big thanks for your help and guidance to the other thread too.
Thanks mate, much appreciated

 

[Oldtimermick]

Danno's works with ECU Editor. I don't know that it will work with the PC5 quickshifter function. For the PC5, I'm quite sure the switch needs to be open at rest and closes when you make the shift. The PC5 needs the switch to connect to ground when the switch is closed.

This recnt thread might help.

Quick shifter question | Gen 2 Busa Information

I was doing some reading on quick shifters and found out about being able to set one up thru the ecu. I think I've decided my buddy and I are gonna split the cost and and get a flash kit from Greg but while reading i seen someone say you could use different quickshifters to send the signal. My...

www.hayabusa.org

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that mine is a 2006 Gen1

 

[Mythos]

Yeah Dano,s switch will work with PC5 ( I found out by emailing them) you just put the two wires from the switch in port 4 and port 5 in the PC5. Doesn’t matter which wire in which port because the port 4 and port 5 are waiting for continuity from the switch to cutout engine.
But what I would like to know is how good and reliable are the Dano’s switches?
They are cheap but is there a reason?
Big thanks for your help and guidance to the other thread too.
Thanks mate, much appreciated

Sorry, I can't vouch for the longterm reliability of the Danno's sensor. Seems like the member who used it was satisfied when he answered the thread l linked above. That was a thread in the last few months. No idea how long he had used the Danno's sensor. The only one of these kinds of sensors I ever heard of failing regularly was the DJ sensor and they have fixed that a long time ago.

 

[Oldtimermick]

Sorry, I can't vouch for the longterm reliability of the Danno's sensor. Seems like the member who used it was satisfied when he answered the thread l linked above. That was a thread in the last few months. No idea how long he had used the Danno's sensor. The only one of these kinds of sensors I ever heard of failing regularly was the DJ sensor and they have fixed that a long time ago.

I looked into getting this one but the postage to Australia is $107 USD
The postage for the Dano’s switch is $38 USD.
I like this new one I found because it is nice looking and slimmer. Plus it definitely works with PC5.

IRC QuickShift Sensor Kit for Dynojet Power Commander V

Motorcycle quickshifter for Dynojet PCV 5 quickshifter kit from IRC. Clutchless motorcycle quick shifter, programmable, standalone. Made in Italy.

www.motodracing.com

 

[Mythos]

@Oldtimermick , The IRC looks nice but I wonder what the module is for if the settings are made in the PC5? I guess you would need to set the sensor for compression or extension and maybe there is a setting for sensitivity like my HM shifter has. Maybe there is a shift kill delay you can set in the module too? You'd think they would list that. All they say is that it's faster than the DJ switch and less bulky which I can see by looking at it. I don't know about the"faster" part. Electricity travels as fast as it travels. All it is is a switch to open and close the circuit. Shift kill delay might reduce the kill time by 15 or twenty mls if the IRC shifter has that. If you're not a really highly competative racer, you won't know the difference except the shift kill delay is one less thing to play around with. For $250, I might start to look for a standalone shifter. I think I paid about $400 for my HM Plus. ...although I'd still prefer to have the shifter work through the PC5 and have the option to cut fuel and ignition for shifting and especially the kill time/ gear.

 

[Oldtimermick]

@Oldtimermick , The IRC looks nice but I wonder what the module is for if the settings are made in the PC5? I guess you would need to set the sensor for compression or extension and maybe there is a setting for sensitivity like my HM shifter has. Maybe there is a shift kill delay you can set in the module too? You'd think they would list that. All they say is that it's faster than the DJ switch and less bulky which I can see by looking at it. I don't know about the"faster" part. Electricity travels as fast as it travels. All it is is a switch to open and close the circuit. Shift kill delay might reduce the kill time by 15 or twenty mls if the IRC shifter has that. If you're not a really highly competative racer, you won't know the difference except the shift kill delay is one less thing to play around with. For $250, I might start to look for a standalone shifter. I think I paid about $400 for my HM Plus. ...although I'd still prefer to have the shifter work through the PC5 and have the option to cut fuel and ignition for shifting and especially the kill time/ gear.

If you look again just below the first pics it quoted
“Adjustable pre-load settings (via Two-Buttons on Unit) allow the rider to customize six (6) settings making shifts seamless and smooth versus "switch units" which can be harsh: 1. Cut Time ("T"), 2. Cut Type ("U"), 3. Up-shift Pre-Load ("L"), 4. Minimum RPM Limit ("SR"), 5. Push or Pull ("CE"), 6. Up-Shift Smooth Adjuster ("RR")”
I think I am going to bite the bullet and just get the Dano’s because it is $174 USD shipped. I asked them how reliable they are and they said they have been making these for 15 years and sold many with no complaints. Of course they have t say that I guess.

 

[Oldtimermick]

I ended up buying the IRC one. He reduced the price to $299 USD shipped.
My next problem is the programming of it. I have ordered the usb cable to plug in the PC5 and now need to see if my laptop is capable.
Even if the laptop is capable then I wonder if I am coz I’m not real computer smart lol.

 

[Oldtimermick]

@Oldtimermick , The IRC looks nice but I wonder what the module is for if the settings are made in the PC5? I guess you would need to set the sensor for compression or extension and maybe there is a setting for sensitivity like my HM shifter has. Maybe there is a shift kill delay you can set in the module too? You'd think they would list that. All they say is that it's faster than the DJ switch and less bulky which I can see by looking at it. I don't know about the"faster" part. Electricity travels as fast as it travels. All it is is a switch to open and close the circuit. Shift kill delay might reduce the kill time by 15 or twenty mls if the IRC shifter has that. If you're not a really highly competative racer, you won't know the difference except the shift kill delay is one less thing to play around with. For $250, I might start to look for a standalone shifter. I think I paid about $400 for my HM Plus. ...although I'd still prefer to have the shifter work through the PC5 and have the option to cut fuel and ignition for shifting and especially the kill time/ gear.

Oops I replied to you earlier but forgot to reply to your message. Sorry mate.
See my earlier post, I bought the IRC one.