R1 Wheels back brake

[greg3852]

So I’m sitting here looking at this bike and remember yesterday when I rode it the back brake was nearly nonexistent.
Since putting on the R1 wheel the rear pads only grab about half of the rotor. It is normal for those that don’t know. That’s just how much it fits on the R1 rotor.

Question is, anyone just remove their rear brake after doing the R1 swap? I rarely used it on the road beforehand anyway. If not, I have to buy a bracket to relocate the caliper to the top of the swingarm. Another thing is eventually (hopefully soon) I’ll be going extended swingarm and most delete it at that point anyway.

Thoughts? Good or bad I don’t mind.

 

[sixpack577]

I don't know the exact answer on what's wrong as to how it fits, but I do remember reading the threads, and that the rear does need a new bracket to eliminate the problem you have.
And, don't remove the rear brake.
Even though the front brakes do most of the stopping, using the rear with them really helps. Meaning the front don't get as hot, fade as quickly, and front and rear brakes combined will stop you sooner than just the front.
Not to mention the unlikely event your front brakes fail, which can be as simple as a bad o-ring in the master cylinder.
Just rear brakes is better than no brakes.

 

[Nastee]

So I’m sitting here looking at this bike and remember yesterday when I rode it the back brake was nearly nonexistent.
Since putting on the R1 wheel the rear pads only grab about half of the rotor. It is normal for those that don’t know. That’s just how much it fits on the R1 rotor.

Question is, anyone just remove their rear brake after doing the R1 swap? I rarely used it on the road beforehand anyway. If not, I have to buy a bracket to relocate the caliper to the top of the swingarm. Another thing is eventually (hopefully soon) I’ll be going extended swingarm and most delete it at that point anyway.

Thoughts? Good or bad I don’t mind.

Greg the rear rotors of R1 are a smaller diameter believe busa is 260mm so yes only half grabs pads. I am going with SAE Performance they make the rotor you need out of steel $137.

 

[Nastee]

So I’m sitting here looking at this bike and remember yesterday when I rode it the back brake was nearly nonexistent.
Since putting on the R1 wheel the rear pads only grab about half of the rotor. It is normal for those that don’t know. That’s just how much it fits on the R1 rotor.

Question is, anyone just remove their rear brake after doing the R1 swap? I rarely used it on the road beforehand anyway. If not, I have to buy a bracket to relocate the caliper to the top of the swingarm. Another thing is eventually (hopefully soon) I’ll be going extended swingarm and most delete it at that point anyway.

Thoughts? Good or bad I don’t mind.

R1 rear rotor measures 220mm compared to the Busa's 260mm. that is a lot of break pad contact to give up. Think the rear caliper bracket was from Suzuki TL but does not completely fix the issue which is why I didn't go that way. Will post the SAE steel rotor mounted.

 

[ROADTOAD1340]

R1 rear rotor measures 220mm compared to the Busa's 260mm. that is a lot of break pad contact to give up. Think the rear caliper bracket was from Suzuki TL but does not completely fix the issue which is why I didn't go that way. Will post the SAE steel rotor mounted.

Gen 1 rear rotor is 240mm , the Gen 2 is 260mm .

 

[Nastee]

Gen 1 rear rotor is 240mm , the Gen 2 is 260mm .

Ahah new that seemed very big thankyou Toad. Here is the eye candy i promised.

 

[fallenarch]

Wow those are pretty slick!

 

[Nastee]

Wow those are pretty slick!

Put the rear on finally & it needed 3 hardened washers on each bolt to space the caliper. Which is fine but it was shipped to me with 1 washer for each bolt. So just know if going R1 you will have to play with the set-up. No one selling a set really gives accurate direction they just make it sound simple.

 

[Nastee]

Also all washers are not all the same thickness when measured & can vary even if same batch & appear identical. So had the front on for awhile seemed the left rotor was alittle warped so bought new floating ones & found one bolt hole was partially stripped & most likely the problem. Bolt stripped for sure when tightened it; so anyone have an idea how to repair this? Anyway this is how they look mounted but that was the only good part. Roll with the punches.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

The stripped thread in the wheel hub needs to be drilled, tapped and a heli-coil insert or similar fitted.
All other threads need to be cleaned up with a tap and carefully checked for damage, and repaired if necessary too.
Remember, this is brakes we are dealing with here, needs to be done with care and patience.
I recommend taking the wheel to an engineer or a wheel repair specialist.