Rear axel nut
- Thread starter Strife
- Start date
And remember to put the cotter pin back in. I didnt and the nut tightened itself and had to use a montsrous 3 foot wrench and step on it with my body weight to get it off....
I recently bought a bag of 100 cotter pins from Fastenal for like 5 bucks so I never run out when I break them and have to replace them
I recently bought a bag of 100 cotter pins from Fastenal for like 5 bucks so I never run out when I break them and have to replace them
And remember to put the cotter pin back in. I didnt and the nut tightened itself and had to use a montsrous 3 foot wrench and step on it with my body weight to get it off....
I recently bought a bag of 100 cotter pins from Fastenal for like 5 bucks so I never run out when I break them and have to replace them
Does his bike use a cotter pin ???
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Cant tell if it is a Gen2 or not. If i had a Gen2 I would definitely mod it so it had a cotter pin though...
rockethead
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+1 36mm definitely 1/2 in drive and get a breaker bar (life saver lol)
rockethead
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And remember to put the cotter pin back in. I didnt and the nut tightened itself and had to use a montsrous 3 foot wrench and step on it with my body weight to get it off....
I recently bought a bag of 100 cotter pins from Fastenal for like 5 bucks so I never run out when I break them and have to replace them
wow. i figured it would work itself loose not tight.. that would have been something to see you bouncing on that wrench lol
Yeah me too... And i use a torque wrench so i KNOW i did not tighten it more than 72 ft lbs.
I broke my 3/4 to 1/2 adapter on my breaker bar trying to get it off and had to go get the wrench from my uncles
Rainbow7
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That's what rattle guns are for.
EDIT: Russell, how does a cotter pin stop the nut from over-tightening? Do you have holes drilled through the nut itself?
That's what rattle guns are for.
EDIT: Russell, how does a cotter pin stop the nut from over-tightening? Do you have holes drilled through the nut itself?
The castle nut Gen1s have are slotted for the pins to slip through so it stops the nut from tightening or loosening.
BiggDaddyBusa08
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That's what rattle guns are for.
EDIT: Russell, how does a cotter pin stop the nut from over-tightening? Do you have holes drilled through the nut itself?
On the GenI it uses a castle nut with slots for the cotter pin. GenII uses a "lock nut" no cotter pin needed. I drag race my Gen II and have done many sprocket changes, and having removed the axle nut several times have not had a problem. Proper torque and RED loktite everytime works very well.
Try a little anti seize next time...axle nuts don't get tighter on their own
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Thanks for all the replies! Job already finished. 20min job taking my time. Cotter pin and everything tightened up to spec. It's a Gen 1. 06 fastest colors. Black and charcoal(grey)! 
Seems I might be taking a 750mi(1500 round trip) road trick tomorrow so bought a new tire for the rear. First time using a Shinko. I Know my postings seemed pro Shinko in the tire threads concerning Shinko tires. I always said they work for their intended application. The place that had a tire in stock and a mechanic on hand to swap it only had the 009 raven in stock. Cost me $25 for mount and balance. I'll be heading to Shelbyville TN.
Seems I might be taking a 750mi(1500 round trip) road trick tomorrow so bought a new tire for the rear. First time using a Shinko. I Know my postings seemed pro Shinko in the tire threads concerning Shinko tires. I always said they work for their intended application. The place that had a tire in stock and a mechanic on hand to swap it only had the 009 raven in stock. Cost me $25 for mount and balance. I'll be heading to Shelbyville TN.
Have a great trip brother 
Rainbow7
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I think that must be an aftermarket part, because my '06 does not have a castle nut, nor does any other other Busa I have ever seen. Ever.
rockethead
Registered
my 01 has it stock.
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