Rear Axle Nut Past Cotter Pin Holes

Kat600

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Hey all, I have a question about the rear axle and nut that I couldn't seem to find an answer to in the site search. I noticed last night when putting the rim back on that the rear nut now tightens past the cotter pin holes. When I first bought the bike, the holes were near the top of the castle nut to begin with.

It is an 03 busa that I purchased in the fall of 08 and everything in the rear axle assembly is OEM except for the Gilles Chain Adjusters, so I'm not sure if they are thinner than the OEM adjusters which might be affecting this. When I bought the bike, the chain and OEM sprockets were newly replaced and I have since put on about 13,000 kms (7,000 miles) and have adjusted the chain when needed. On the Gilles adjusters, I have moved from approx the 2 mark to the 4 mark since I bought it.

I know that the threads and/or the axle can stretch due to over tightening, but is there any harm in having the nut where it is? The cotter pin is just resting on the top of the castle nut, so it still shouldn't move. I do recall that on my old Katana that I drove for years, that as I neared the end of the adjusters that the same thing would happen with the castle nut and cotter pin. When I replaced the chain and sprockets, thereby moving to the front of the adjusters again, the problem would go away until I neared the end of the adjusters again.

And no, I have never used a torque wrench on the rear axle nut. Because of this, I do not go super crazy in tightening it. I have never needed anything leverage-wise to get the rear nut off other than a socket wrench and 36mm socket. Any thoughts or opinions on this? Obviously, I don't want this thing to move. I know the busa has a lot of hp so I will replace the axle and nut if need be.

Here are 2 pics from different angles.

nut2.jpg

nut1.jpg
 
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Its just the adjusters are thinner.
As long as the axle is tight your all set!
 
Would putting a washer between the Gilles and the nut cause any problems?
 
In your second pic, just drill a new hole as it sits right thru axle and set pin in new hole.
You'll be fine then. Or just get another axle and drill one nice new hole after you torque it once to what your comfy with. Should be able to get an axle for a decent price.
With the way it is the pin or nut cant come out or loosen much.
Just depends on how comfortable your mind is.
 
LOL I was copying and pasting this post to put up on a local forum and before I hit paste, I already had multiple replies here. Thanks so much everyone, I really appreciate it!!!

I had a bit of a scare on the Katana a few years ago as one of the adjusters failed which in turn lodged the rear wheel sideways. Thankfully the final 'failure' happened in a parking lot and not at highway speeds. I just needed some piece of mind, thanks again!!
 
Also a good idea possibly.
There is a washer on my 09 in between nut and adj so I dont see why this would not be a quick fix as well.

yup just get a thin washer and you will be all set. You can probably get one at Home Depot.
 
I would also go to a quick pin and get rid of that one. Not sure if you can see it in the pic.

Tires 008.jpg
 
I would use a torque wrench.
It is surprising how tight that has to be to be in specs.
The cotter pin is not necessary, but the right torque is.
 
I would use a torque wrench.
It is surprising how tight that has to be to be in specs.
The cotter pin is not necessary, but the right torque is.
+1. The cotter pin is there to keep the nut from backing off. Gen2 doesnt require the use of a cotter pin, at least mine didn't come with one but If you dont want to use any of the above suggestions tighten it up and use torx strip to manage the slippage of the nut. I suggest the washer stack, JMO
 
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+1. The cotter pin is there to keep the nut from backing off. Gen2 doesnt require the use of a cotter pin, at least mine didn't come with one but If you dont want to use any of the above suggestions tighten it up and use torx strip to manage the slippage of the nut. I suggest the washer stack, JMO


The Gen2 is a lock nut as well, that's why it doesn't need the pin. And you should always use a torque wrench!
 
Simple solution would be to add a flat washer under the nut and you are in business!

Torque wrench! It's your best friend!
 
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