OB_hayabusa
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Does anyone make rear ride height adjusters for the Busa. I want to raise the rear of the bike to stop the clutch and generator covers getting filed off.
rear ride height adjusters
- Thread starter OB_hayabusa
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OB_Malcolm
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If you know what you want speak to Brock Davidson of BDE at 937-429-5832 or if you want adjustability call Andy at Adjustment Tech at 905-863-5245
OB_KawAbuser
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Dirty Pete bring it on!
Is there a Clean Pete?
Is there a Clean Pete?
OB_Dirty Pete
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Perhaps I should assume that you've already done this, but have you screwed down the pre-load rings on your rear shock? That will raise the rear AND reduce suspension travel under heavy g-loads.
Reef down your compression and damping screws, too.
The Busa comes from the factory set much too soft. Even their suggestions for "firm" ride
are ridiculous.
Screw everything down hard. If you want my settings, I'll post them for you. I weigh 190 punds.
Reef down your compression and damping screws, too.
The Busa comes from the factory set much too soft. Even their suggestions for "firm" ride
are ridiculous.
Screw everything down hard. If you want my settings, I'll post them for you. I weigh 190 punds.
OB_Dirty Pete
Registered
Speed: Here are your settings and instructions.
KawAbuser: I take a shower every day, but no amount of scrubbing can clean my filthy soul.
To business: Put the bike on its side stand.
FRONT SUSPENSION FIRST:
The big gold nuts on the triple tree clamp are your pre-load adjusters. Socket them in until only three lines are clearly showing. Stop just before the third line disappears. You should be able to see the third line and maybe 1/64" under it.
The slot screws inside the pre-load nuts are your rebound damping adjusters. Using no force at all, screw them in until they bottom out, then screw them out 2 clicks each. Stop immediately when you hear the second click.
To set the compression damping, go to the rear-facing slot screws at the bottom of the forks. Lightly screw them in until they bottom out, then screw them out 4 clicks and stop when you hear the 4th click.
REAR SUSPENSION:
To set rebound and compression damping you net that small slot screwdriver with an 8 inch shank, and a flashlight.
Kneeling on the the rider's left side of the motorcycle, you'll see the compression damping adjustment screw at the top of the rear shock between the chain boot-guard and the tail fairing. Screw this in until it bottoms, then screw it out exactly 4 clicks.
The rear rebound damping screw is harder to get at. Aim your flashlight at the bottom of the shock, then put your long screwdriver on the screw, bottom it gently, then screw it out 6 clicks.
For rear pre-load, use a long drift or other metal rod, and whack it with a hammer to turn the top toothed ring (lock ring) counterclockwise (both of these toothed rings have normal right hand threads) to loosen it. Then whack the ring below it clockwise one complete revolution. Lastly, whack the lock ring tight again.
You're done!
Brace yourself for a true sportbike ride and get out there!
Hayabusa: If this doesn't help your grinding problem appreciably, tighten the rear pre-load until it does. Grinding covers though is a fact of life when you're cornering as hard as you must be doing. I scrape my peg feelers and just behind the fairing chin, but have not hit motor casings.
Could be the nature of the different tracks we are riding/rider weight/tire profile...
Hey, I cut the flapper valve and the bottom out of my airbox today, and does it haul ass! The result is so dramatic I can feel it by the seat of my pants. Perhaps the extra air is just what my low restriction Yosh RS-3 slip-ons needed.
Air in...air out! Breathe baby!
And I got none of the predicted poor idle and low end response.
Have fun with your new suspension settings. They gave me an instant 4 seconds on a 1:45 track day when I first did them, even though I didn't have time to get used to the new settings. Now that these settings are normal to me after 3,000 miles on them, I believe I'd be several seconds quicker yet.
[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 17 August 1999).]
KawAbuser: I take a shower every day, but no amount of scrubbing can clean my filthy soul.
To business: Put the bike on its side stand.
FRONT SUSPENSION FIRST:
The big gold nuts on the triple tree clamp are your pre-load adjusters. Socket them in until only three lines are clearly showing. Stop just before the third line disappears. You should be able to see the third line and maybe 1/64" under it.
The slot screws inside the pre-load nuts are your rebound damping adjusters. Using no force at all, screw them in until they bottom out, then screw them out 2 clicks each. Stop immediately when you hear the second click.
To set the compression damping, go to the rear-facing slot screws at the bottom of the forks. Lightly screw them in until they bottom out, then screw them out 4 clicks and stop when you hear the 4th click.
REAR SUSPENSION:
To set rebound and compression damping you net that small slot screwdriver with an 8 inch shank, and a flashlight.
Kneeling on the the rider's left side of the motorcycle, you'll see the compression damping adjustment screw at the top of the rear shock between the chain boot-guard and the tail fairing. Screw this in until it bottoms, then screw it out exactly 4 clicks.
The rear rebound damping screw is harder to get at. Aim your flashlight at the bottom of the shock, then put your long screwdriver on the screw, bottom it gently, then screw it out 6 clicks.
For rear pre-load, use a long drift or other metal rod, and whack it with a hammer to turn the top toothed ring (lock ring) counterclockwise (both of these toothed rings have normal right hand threads) to loosen it. Then whack the ring below it clockwise one complete revolution. Lastly, whack the lock ring tight again.
You're done!
Brace yourself for a true sportbike ride and get out there!
Hayabusa: If this doesn't help your grinding problem appreciably, tighten the rear pre-load until it does. Grinding covers though is a fact of life when you're cornering as hard as you must be doing. I scrape my peg feelers and just behind the fairing chin, but have not hit motor casings.
Could be the nature of the different tracks we are riding/rider weight/tire profile...
Hey, I cut the flapper valve and the bottom out of my airbox today, and does it haul ass! The result is so dramatic I can feel it by the seat of my pants. Perhaps the extra air is just what my low restriction Yosh RS-3 slip-ons needed.
Air in...air out! Breathe baby!
And I got none of the predicted poor idle and low end response.
Have fun with your new suspension settings. They gave me an instant 4 seconds on a 1:45 track day when I first did them, even though I didn't have time to get used to the new settings. Now that these settings are normal to me after 3,000 miles on them, I believe I'd be several seconds quicker yet.
[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 17 August 1999).]
OB_Dirty Pete
Registered
Speed...check in for my settings tonight. My bike's at home and I'm at work. These settings made my bike very good for high speed tracks, and just barely tolerable for uneven pavement. Fine on good pavement, though.
You will have a solid sportbike feel, with no discernable suspension travel on long bumps or undulations, but with sufficient rebound and damping to let the tires track bumps accurately at any speed or attitude.
To change your settings, you'll need a small slot straight screwdriver with an 8 inch shank, a flashlight and, unless you have a way to lift the chassis only to unload the rear suspension, a hammer and a large headed drift or other solid metal rod at least 8 inches long to turn the shock rings (the "factory" tool is useless).
I don't think the owner's manual tells you very well where the adjusters are, so I'll include instructions for you.
It's a breeze by the way.
You will have a solid sportbike feel, with no discernable suspension travel on long bumps or undulations, but with sufficient rebound and damping to let the tires track bumps accurately at any speed or attitude.
To change your settings, you'll need a small slot straight screwdriver with an 8 inch shank, a flashlight and, unless you have a way to lift the chassis only to unload the rear suspension, a hammer and a large headed drift or other solid metal rod at least 8 inches long to turn the shock rings (the "factory" tool is useless).
I don't think the owner's manual tells you very well where the adjusters are, so I'll include instructions for you.
It's a breeze by the way.
OB_hayabusa
Registered
Thanks Dirty Man
OB_Dirty Pete
Registered
Ozzybusa, I haven't touched my EFI, and don't feel the need to.
Then again, I don't have easy access to a dyno.
When I first put the RS-3s on, I did dyno pre and post, and got 5 peak horsepower, which I could not feel by seat of the pants.
With the airbox mod, I can definitely feel it seat of the pants.
My spark plugs are the right colour, I have no temperature problems, and power delivery is smooth.
[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 18 August 1999).]
Then again, I don't have easy access to a dyno.
When I first put the RS-3s on, I did dyno pre and post, and got 5 peak horsepower, which I could not feel by seat of the pants.
With the airbox mod, I can definitely feel it seat of the pants.
My spark plugs are the right colour, I have no temperature problems, and power delivery is smooth.
[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 18 August 1999).]
G
Guest
Dirty Pete, if you used the Yosh-box to optimise your setup for the RS3 slip-ons, could you please post them. Thanx
OB_Dirty Pete
Registered
Speed or anyone else who uses the settings I posted above...I'd love to hear back from you as to whether they work as well for you as they have for me.
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