Has anyone ever tested a rectifier before? I tested mine and according to the specs in the manual, you should have a reading across each terminal using the chart provided. I get some readings, but across certain terminals I get nothing. Is that normal or what. I thought it was no good so I purchased another on and get the same thing. Any Help?
Rectifier Testing?
- Thread starter vegasbusa
- Start date
I have tested mine, and the readings were off BAD when compared to the manual, Then i went and got a friend of mines who tested identical. Im Airforce and specialize in electronics and test diodes every day. The technique i used testing was perfect and per the manual, but i took it to the avionics shop and they tested it too. Confirmed I did it right. After i swapped his and mine out i realized that wasnt the problem.
Frustrated at the day lost troubleshooting out of the manual i took it to the dealer for them to test. They said they didnt have the tool. So i gave them mine. Said they didnt have the chart, so i showed them where to find it. Said they never tested one so i read the instructions to them.
After them testing it, getting the same results, then they got frustrated. They told me they just swap them out to test them. I argued, i dont have a $280 rectifier lying around to test it with, nor can i afford to buy one and not be able to return it when it doesnt fix it.
They told me to pay a $60 diagnostic fee for them to look at it. Blew my ****ing lid. You mutha****er you already showed me you dont have a clue why would i pay you.
Frustrated at the day lost troubleshooting out of the manual i took it to the dealer for them to test. They said they didnt have the tool. So i gave them mine. Said they didnt have the chart, so i showed them where to find it. Said they never tested one so i read the instructions to them.
After them testing it, getting the same results, then they got frustrated. They told me they just swap them out to test them. I argued, i dont have a $280 rectifier lying around to test it with, nor can i afford to buy one and not be able to return it when it doesnt fix it.
They told me to pay a $60 diagnostic fee for them to look at it. Blew my ****ing lid. You mutha****er you already showed me you dont have a clue why would i pay you.
I have just been going thru the same grief for the last 5 weeks. Swapping batteries in & out
It was the rectifier, put a claim in with warranty, Suzuki sent thru a new rec & a new battery !Saved > Rec = $400 .... Battery = $100 Thanx Suzuki Australia
Good luck with everything
.... I think its a common prob with Suzuki.Hmmm, first of all, how many Volts (AC) come from the generator? Please check all three wires
a) against ground
b) against each other
If you find an AC voltage higher than, well, let's say, 60 V at any rate, your generator is fine.
Next step:
Either try to find another Hayabusa and grab its rectifier for testing purposes or try to get any other rectifier, e.g. from Yamaha R1, Suzuki GSXR 1100, or whatever kind of rectifier you can find. They all work the same way:
The incoming AC voltage is being rectified to DC voltage by using 6 diodes. Now the prob is that the incoming voltage is only depending on the engine's rpms and it'll rise "endlessly". This would give an output voltage much higher than the max of 14,5 V. To get it suppressed you have built-in three short-cicuiting thyristors which connect the voltage to ground as soon as the output voltage gets higher than 14,5 V. Therefor the generator's input voltage drops down under the 14,5 V (into saturation). The thyristors then disconnect the input voltage from ground and the generator's voltage rises again until the game starts again.
Means, the output voltage is more or less "produced" in the same way, no matter what kind of bike you take. All bikes with external rectifier do it the same way and therefor you can use any bike's rectifier.
Btw. the way how the rectifier "regulates" the output voltage gives you the reason why that stuff is getting so hot while working.
O'right, let's assume you found another rectifier... how to handle it?
They ALL have at least three input wires (with the same color) and one output wire (different color to the three above, mostly red). Some of them have an additional ground wire, some not. If not, the rectifier's housing is the ground wire and must be connected to ground.
Just connect your three generator cables to the three same-colored cables on the rectifier (you can't mix them up, it doesn't matter which is connected to which as long as you only connect same color to same color
)
Ok, now you have at least one cable left. If so, this is the "battery +" cable, connect it to your DC voltmeter. Bolt on the rectifier so it is grounded.
If you have a seperate ground cable coming from the rectifier, connect it either somewhere to ground or directly to "battery -".
Gentleman, start your engine and see how many volts you find there.
It should be somewhere between 13,8 to 14,5 V.
Come back with your findings and we'll see, ok?
Hope I could help...
D1
a) against ground
b) against each other
If you find an AC voltage higher than, well, let's say, 60 V at any rate, your generator is fine.
Next step:
Either try to find another Hayabusa and grab its rectifier for testing purposes or try to get any other rectifier, e.g. from Yamaha R1, Suzuki GSXR 1100, or whatever kind of rectifier you can find. They all work the same way:
The incoming AC voltage is being rectified to DC voltage by using 6 diodes. Now the prob is that the incoming voltage is only depending on the engine's rpms and it'll rise "endlessly". This would give an output voltage much higher than the max of 14,5 V. To get it suppressed you have built-in three short-cicuiting thyristors which connect the voltage to ground as soon as the output voltage gets higher than 14,5 V. Therefor the generator's input voltage drops down under the 14,5 V (into saturation). The thyristors then disconnect the input voltage from ground and the generator's voltage rises again until the game starts again.
Means, the output voltage is more or less "produced" in the same way, no matter what kind of bike you take. All bikes with external rectifier do it the same way and therefor you can use any bike's rectifier.
Btw. the way how the rectifier "regulates" the output voltage gives you the reason why that stuff is getting so hot while working.
O'right, let's assume you found another rectifier... how to handle it?
They ALL have at least three input wires (with the same color) and one output wire (different color to the three above, mostly red). Some of them have an additional ground wire, some not. If not, the rectifier's housing is the ground wire and must be connected to ground.
Just connect your three generator cables to the three same-colored cables on the rectifier (you can't mix them up, it doesn't matter which is connected to which as long as you only connect same color to same color
)Ok, now you have at least one cable left. If so, this is the "battery +" cable, connect it to your DC voltmeter. Bolt on the rectifier so it is grounded.
If you have a seperate ground cable coming from the rectifier, connect it either somewhere to ground or directly to "battery -".
Gentleman, start your engine and see how many volts you find there.
It should be somewhere between 13,8 to 14,5 V.
Come back with your findings and we'll see, ok?
Hope I could help...
D1
O.K. Here is the deal. I bought another rectifier and it tested the same as mine. I spoke with a mechanic here in town and they knew less than i did, unbelievable isn't it? Anyway spoke to a friend back home in NY and he said to test; 1) the ground from the battery terminal, and 2) the connectors from both the rectifier and stator. Before he told me this I just glanced at them and they looked fine, but I really examined them and saw that one wire coming from the stator to the connector was black like it was heating up and ready to melt. I looked into the connector and saw that it was a little melted. I then looked at the rectifier connector. What I thought was 2 yellow wires and 1 black wire was actually 3 yellow wires and was that was burning up. I pulled slightly on it and it came right out of the connector. I then cut all the connectors off and soldered and insulated the wires. I took the Busa for a 2 hour ride, shutting off a restarting it several times trying to kill the battery and so far it is working fine. I will do the same tomorrow to see what happens. I hope this helps someone because I was lost before I got this info. Good Luck!
billyerds01
Registered
I had the same problem. I would fully charge the battery. You can only ride as far as the battery charge will take you. I would get a couple of miles before the battery was dead again. Its suppose to be between 13.8 to 14.5 like the above has stated. Cost me 125 for the rectifier. Hope this helps a little.
Blckbrd
Registered
I just had a rectifier failure in the middle of the Smokey Mountains in Tennessee ... far from any shop, tow, or phone service. Luckily I was not alone & my buddy on his ZX14 swapped batteries with me to enable me to make it to "civilization." (just being dramatic ... no offense to any Smokey Mountain residents here!!)
Props to MR Motorcycle of Ashville, North Carolina, for professional and prompt service that got me back on the road - let me have a new rectifier off a floor bike.
Turns out the rectifier crapped out after only about 1000 miles on the bike. A new '09. Although it has a new one on it now, I am very concerned that it will just happen again. Gotta find a stronger/better made one. Any ideas?
Props to MR Motorcycle of Ashville, North Carolina, for professional and prompt service that got me back on the road - let me have a new rectifier off a floor bike.
Turns out the rectifier crapped out after only about 1000 miles on the bike. A new '09. Although it has a new one on it now, I am very concerned that it will just happen again. Gotta find a stronger/better made one. Any ideas?
HELP!
I went to the GSX1300R service manual for instructions on testing the rectifier and needless to say I'm confused. The manual shows a 4-pronged connector on one side and a three slot receptacle on the opposite side to test points.
I pulled my rectifier plug and both have five (prongs on plug/slots on receptacle). Am I missing something in the manual to test the rectifier? Thanks in advance.
Feff
I went to the GSX1300R service manual for instructions on testing the rectifier and needless to say I'm confused. The manual shows a 4-pronged connector on one side and a three slot receptacle on the opposite side to test points.
I pulled my rectifier plug and both have five (prongs on plug/slots on receptacle). Am I missing something in the manual to test the rectifier? Thanks in advance.
Feff
Took the rectifiter to a local bike shop, Cycle House(www.cyclehouseperformance.com) who were kind enough to test it. Passed the test with flying colors. Saves $150.
Feff
Feff
DOBERDEWD
Registered
What's up with the recalls.?
What years does it affect?
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