Removing tires (F/R)

[el stumpo]

Getting new rubber on Saturday, so I have to pull the front and rear off. Is it as straightforward as it seems? Anything to be aware of that might be a gotcha? Should everything come off with elbow grease - or do I have to break out the impact wrench?

Planning on doing it tonight or Friday and would welcome any pointers. I'm looking for the manual now, so I will be following that.

TIA.

 

[el stumpo]

... clicked on the track topic box ...

 

[rubber2burn]

It is pretty straight forward just remember that when you put them back to torque to spec and do not over torque you could ruin your bearings. Also on the front you need to leave the pinch bolts on the opposite side of the axle nut tightened so the axle will not spin so you can untighten the nut.

 

[pbghost]

try not to let the callipers free hang by the lines any longer than they have too. bolt the front ones back in place when you get the wheel off and you can slide the rear axle back in place to support the rear calliper. when all is said & done and the new tires are on... double check the torque bar bolts for tightness. I lost my forward bolt sunday. all in all it's pretty easy.

 

[el stumpo]

Thanks for the advice pbghost and rubber2burn.

I'll definitely break out my torque wrench. Is locktite a good idea for the nuts? For the calipers, I have a heavy duty piece of coated wire that I usually use to suspend them on my car. Bolting them back sounds good too since it will be a few days.

 

[8Daytona8]

I wouldn't use lock tight, steel to alum is hard on threads. Or at least i don't use it. I R&R my own tires but when out of sight you don't know what they do! I maybe wrong but I didn't notice any diff from Left or Right side of the front wheel

I know the tire has a rotation so maybe a good idea to mark one rotor! Got the 15/16" big allen for the front axle?

 

[el stumpo]

I wouldn't use lock tight, steel to alum is hard on threads. Or at least i don't use it. I R&R my own tires but when out of sight you don't know what they do! I maybe wrong but I didn't notice any diff from Left or Right side of the front wheel

I know the tire has a rotation so maybe a good idea to mark one rotor! Got the 15/16" big allen for the front axle?

Thanks for the reminder - I will mark the rotors with direction...

I'm going to bypass the allen for the po man's wrench - 5/16" bolt and 2 nuts!

 

[8Daytona8]

I used a 15/16" bolt, bent! Then all you need is a cheater pipe, box wrench etc. Leave the left side cinched and after it broke axle spun out with ease. One other thing! Just pinch the brake hose clips from underneath the fender and they pop rite out. U do plan on removing F-fender rite.

 

[el stumpo]

I haven't completely looked, but removing the fender does seem like a good idea

 

[rubber2burn]

As far as Lock tite goes I use it on the caliper bolts when reinstalling so they will not vibrate out but that is the only place I use it. I would agree with pbghost don't let the calipers hang it is not good for the lines.

 

[MsMeow]

you don't actually have to remove the front fender. I just removed the bolts holding the fender on and lifted it up. With a pitbull stand, the tire comes right out.

 

[Big Red]

Any trouble getting your torque values using anti seize compound?

 

[el stumpo]

Thanks to all! I finally got my wheels off.

Rear was easy - one nut and the axle came right off.
Front was a bit harder. I was using the 5/8 bolt and couldn't get it to budge. After trying for 30mins, came back to the board and read s'more. Took it off the front stand and was able to loosen then remove the axle! But the spacer prevented the front wheel from coming off. After wrestling with it for awhile, pulled the fork over a little and it came off.

Nasty Surprise: There are all kinds of deep scratches on the rear swingarm where the chain goes. I'll take a pic, but not sure what happened

Surprise #2: The cushions have deep grooves in them. I guess that means replace? What causes that?

Another question: Should I replace the bearings? Is it cheap enough to just go ahead and do? Or only if there is a problem?

Gonna take the wheels down to get new rubber tomorrow. Thanks to all the helpful people on the oRg!

 

[8Daytona8]

The cush drive rubbers have a groove in them normaly. You must drag race or?? those things last a long while. Many busa's go a life time with original ones. Wheel bearings as long as there is no side to side and spin with your finger smoothly is probably better than the beating most give em putting another set in.

 

[el stumpo]

THanks for the info. I don't drag, but the bike was purchased used. Makes me wonder how much it was abused

I'll take a look at the bearings. I won't get my tires back until Mon/Tues because of their sale. But that's ok....