Repost on installing tensioner!

[OB_JRBusa]

Since there have been such an alarming number of cases of tensioner failures recently I am reposting my earlier instructions on how to install a manual tensioner. I know that many of you will probable switch to the manuals soon, so here goes round two:

To install and adjust you manual cam chain tensioner: Remove valve coverf and observe factory cam timing, yu may want to use a shop manual to verify proper timing marks at this time. Mark the timing dots, lines, whatever, I don't know at this time with correction fluid for easy reference.Mark the crank and case markings as well. this will dispell confusion. now remove the factory tensioner. Now set the reach of the new tensioner so that you are just barely able to bottom the base of the tension against the block, Dont tighten the locknut yet, just snug it for now. Now recheck your cam timing and make sure that no timing change has occured. Now install the tensioner bolts and torque to factory specs. Check timing again. Pull on your crank wrench and observe any slop in chain. If all is well, crank the engine and observe any clicking or ratcheting sounds, if so lightly tighten the tensioner bolt until sound becomes inaudible. Let engine fully warm up.Now slowly loosen tensioner up until you hear a faint ratcheting sound. Tighten back up once more until sound disappears. Now from this point is where tuners might disagree as to what the tensioner should be moved or not. I say to run the tensioner another 1/8 turn and tighten lock nut. When you hear faint ratcheting return later, time to adjust. I used this method for 6 years on my mid 8 second 81 Suzuki 1260 drag bike with cam motion G3 cams and never had a single cam or valve train related problem. Put over 1000 passes on this bike. Need I say more.

 

[OB_Cisco San Jose]

Thanks for the good information.

 

[OB_CaveDweller]

Thanks JR

 

[OB_carlitobusa]

I just finished with the installation my new tensioner adjuster. I took the following steps:

1)Remove R fairing
2)Raise Tank
3}Remove Air Box
4}Disconnect all wires to plugs
5}Lift protective rubber mat cover(try to secure it away from the valve cover}
6}Remove Throttle and choke cables
7}Remove Throttle linkage bracket(Need clearance for valve cover removal)
8}Remove valve cover bolts and valve cover,(be careful not to drop cover bolts gaskets inside the engine while removing)
9}Remove all 4 spark plugs
10)Set engine on TDC by using your starter push button. Ensure
cam lobes are NOT depressing valves and all valves are closed}
11)NOW remove old tensioner(Follow JRBUSA instructions above)

note: Tensioner is located on the rear right section of your engine looking fron the back of the bike FWD, behind the frame. You may run into clearance problems while removing the auto adjuster allen head bolts. Be extra careful when reinstalling the valve cover,make sure the rubber gasket is seated.

After installing the cam according to JRBUSA instructions, replace all parts. Do not screw the tank in place and the R fairing until you run the bike to temperature for final adjustment. The tank must be lifted up for final adjustment.

After installation test run the bike throughout the different RPM ranges for 5 to 10 min. and listen for unusual noises.

For extra safety add a drop of loctite to the manual adjuster screw just behind the lock nut.

I have heard of people cutting corners, by not removing the valve cover. DO NOT TAKE CHANCES.
No more worries,
carlito




[This message has been edited by carlitobusa (edited 30 July 2000).]

 

[OB_Jay]

Be sure to occasonially check to make sure the jam nut is tight.

Jay