Rewiring battery/starter

tarock

tarock

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I recently purchased a PB-2 battery from schnitzracing.com which has a claimed cold cranking amps of 380amps. The stock hayabusa battery has 175 cold cranking amps.

I am dumb when it comes to wiring, and I do not know what the stock wire gauge is (im guessing 8 awg), so...would updating my bikes wire from battery to starter relay, from relay to starter, and the starter ground to battery neg with heavier gauge wire be beneficial? How big should I go? I have read people going with 4 awg...but would 2 awg be bad?

Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes

The link shows how many amps the wire gauge can transfer so this is where I am assuming that I should run a large enough wire to get the best bang for my buck from the new beafy battery. Please let me know if I am off base.
 
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you can run bigger cables if you want, it doesn't cause any problems. The biggest headache maybe the small plastic cap that covers the cables on the starter relay. You may have to cut it for extra clearance.

P2076527_v2.JPG
 
tarock said:
I recently purchased a PB-2 battery from schnitzracing.com which has a claimed cold cranking amps of 380amps. The stock hayabusa battery has 175 cold cranking amps.

I am dumb when it comes to wiring, and I do not know what the stock wire gauge is (im guessing 8 awg), so...would updating my bikes wire from battery to starter relay, from relay to starter, and the starter ground to battery neg with heavier gauge wire be beneficial? How big should I go? I have read people going with 4 awg...but would 2 awg be bad?

Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes

The link shows how many amps the wire gauge can transfer so this is where I am assuming that I should run a large enough wire to get the best bang for my buck from the new beafy battery. Please let me know if I am off base.
Click to expand...

how do you like the pb-2? anyone else use this battery? i am about to do the 03 starter upgrade thanks to goldenchild :bowdown: when my parts get here on tues but thinkin this battery would be a good idea also
 
schnitzracing.com is where I got it...was cheaper than the bigger yuasa has more CC so thats why I got it. I like the battery but it didn't do much to show more kick on the starter.

NITRO...can you explain the kit that you got from goldenchild??
 
So I know it has been a while, but I just got the girl all buttoned up with the new battery and 4 awg wire all around.

----THIS THING IS CRAZY. The battery alone did not make a difference (for me) however, the larger 4awg wire allows more engery to be delivered...thus utilizing the batteries power. I would be willing to guess that the stock battery may also work well with increased wiring (but I'm not an electrical guy). Anyways, The bike now cranks over at least twice as fast and thus starts twice as fast. Completely solved my long crank/hard starting problem! :thumbsup:
 
I did not take any photos. It is pretty easy though, and you can use commuta's photo above for the "hard" part.

Take a look at your bike. There is a short wire from your battery+ to the "box" pictured above. This then has a wire+ running to your starter under the tank on the right side. There is then a single negative wire running from the frame right by the starter to the battery negative. Pretty simple, three wires that just need to increase size from stock 6-8awg to new 4awg. Also, I did not have any problem with fitment in the "box" commuta has provided above. The plastic housing cap is as stated the hardest thing just to initially pop off. :thumbsup:

I bought 6ft of 4 gauge wire (could probably get away with 5ft) and then picked up some matching 1/4" connectors. Total cost was less than 20 bucks if you shop around.

I have a new high power battery, and I am not an electrical expert at all so this assumption may be wrong, but I would submit that a stock battery and this wire change would still yeild the same results becuase the stock wire is not large enough to actually deliver the full amount of power the stock battery has.
 
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I bought off of ebay...the cheapest and fast enough shipping. I checked a couple car audio places and radioshak. The local shops all wanted way too much...radioshak wanted $6 a foot!!! I bought the connectors off of newegg...cheapest on that end and decent shipping.
 
$4 sounds like a lot...plus shipping. However, these are gold plated which conducts electrical current the best.
 
Just got all my stuff to do this :thumbsup:

14 bucks for my terminals, shipping cluded. Ended up buying 8 in a set.
15 bucks for good Stinger 4 gauge wire. (6 ft)

So just under 30 bucks for this mod
Thanks for the inspiration to do it :beerchug:
 
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