silly brake questions....

OZZY

DOIN' WORK...
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ok, so i just went out in the garage and was messin with my bike and i noiticed my front brake fluid level was low.  i can add brake fluid (dot4) with9out having to bleed the front system correct?

also, changing out my brake pads......  is it really as easy as removing a spring and then the lil clip and retaining pin??  no caliper removal necessary??

i usually dont do my own work so that is y i am curious since i am rather mechanically inclined. i jsut never feel like dickin around with it..... even though i should!!!
 
Did you check to see if it was leaking anywhere? It might be a very subtle leak, hard to find, but the fluid level seldom drops without a leak. If you do find a leak, investigate where it's coming from...maybe a loose Banjo or somewhere. In any case, I'd find out why it was low, fix it, then put in all new fluid. Hope this helps
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i will have to take a looksee at it... anyone gotta propane heater i can borrow for a few hrs...... my garage is a friggin icebox!!!!!
 
Yes to adding fluid, but if its dark you may want to bleed the system and clean the cup
 
(Learjett @ Feb. 11 2007,23:00) Did you check to see if it was leaking anywhere? It might be a very subtle leak, hard to find, but the fluid level seldom drops without a leak. If you do find a leak, investigate where it's coming from...maybe a loose Banjo or somewhere. In any case, I'd find out why it was low, fix it, then put in all new fluid. Hope this helps
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good info.
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look for something missing some paint.
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How worn are the pads? As the pads wear down the fluid level will drop! When you compress the calipers to install new pads the fluid level will go back up.
 
im pretty sure the pads are the stock pads still. they only have 7700 miles on them but i did notice a lil chirp when applying the front brake towards the end of the riding season. im taking my bike to a reputable shop in my area next weeks so im just gonna have them go over the system.

these guys work with alot of busa's and have done some work for me in the past so i feel comfortable letting them take a look at it. plus, the owner has a couple busa's for himself.

anyone around the akron area should def check these guys out.... (shameless plug i know). the shop is Manual Motorcycles. they have always taken good care of myself and my riding buddies.
 
(05BusaLe @ Feb. 11 2007,23:14) How worn are the pads? As the pads wear down the fluid level will drop! When you compress the calipers to install new pads the fluid level will go back up.
Now that is thinking!
 
(05BusaLe @ Feb. 11 2007,20:14) How worn are the pads? As the pads wear down the fluid level will drop! When you compress the calipers to install new pads the fluid level will go back up.
+1
 
My stock fronts have 8400 mi on 'em and I'm changing them before the next time I ride.
 
(monster @ Feb. 12 2007,09:39) My stock fronts have 8400 mi on 'em and I'm changing them before the next time I ride.
thats exactly what im doing. im getting the bike serviced and ready to roll.. gotta be top notch by the time the bash comes around.
 
(Bokey@Feb. 12 2007,09:43)
8400 miles on a set of pads?
Sounds like more right hand twist is needed.[/Quote]

+1 or later on the brakes
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(deldewey @ Feb. 12 2007,12:50) (Bokey@Feb. 12 2007,09:43)
8400 miles on a set of pads?
Sounds like more right hand twist is needed.

+1 or later on the brakes
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[/Quote]
Bought the bike with 4900 on it - rear pads shot, front like new. I replaced the rears and now it's time for new fronts
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I have over 18K on my stock pads. I bought a new set of HH pads last September and keep checking mine hoping its time to change but I still have a lot of pad on the fronts left. I'm going to change them before I head to the mountains in March.

INTERESTING READING:

"The big bugaboo with DOT 3-4 fluids always cited by silicone fluid advocates is water absorption. DOT 3-4 glycol based fluids, just like ethylene glycol antifreezes, are readily miscible with water. Long term brake system water content tends to reach a maximum of about 3%, which is readily handled by the corrosion inhibitors in the brake fluid formulation. Since the inhibitors are gradually depleted as they do their job, glycol brake fluid, just like anti-freeze, needs to be changed periodically. Follow BMW's recommendations. DOT 5 fluids, not being water miscible, must rely on the silicone (with some corrosion inhibitors) as a barrier film to control corrosion. Water is not absorbed by silicone as in the case of DOT 3-4 fluids, and will remain as a separate globule sinking to the lowest point in the brake system, since it is more dense.

DOT 4 glycol based fluid has a higher boiling point (446F) than DOT 3 (401F), and both fluids will exhibit a reduced boiling point as water content increases. DOT 5 in its pure state offers a higher boiling point (500F) however if water got into the system, and a big globule found its way into a caliper, the water would start to boil at 212F causing a vapor lock condition [possible brake failure -ed.]. By contrast, DOT 3 fluid with 3% water content would still exhibit a boiling point of 300F. Silicone fluids also exhibit a 3 times greater propensity to dissolve air and other gasses which can lead to a "spongy pedal" and reduced braking at high altitudes.

Since DOT 4 fluids were developed, it was recognized that borate ester based fluids offered the potential for boiling points beyond the 446F requirement, thus came the Super DOT 4 fluids - some covered by the DOT 5.1 designation - which exhibit a minimum dry boiling point of 500F (same as silicone, but different chemistry). "
 
Dude, changing the brake pads is about the second easiest thing to do on the bike. Go for it!

Just remember to remove the reservoir cover before you compress the piston on the caliper. The fluid level will rise again and should be sufficient.

Obviously, check the pad wear and make sure they actually need replacing.

Make sure you put the little clippies back in the same way they were before working on it.

What else . . . .

Oh, if the fluid is low and the pads are NOT worn, you could have a leak somewhere but frankly, I'd bet that's the lowest probability.

Let us know how it goes!

--Wag--
 
How about a few pics to go with the thread... I can't help it, I'm a picture whore.

I took these when I was replacing the front tire/rim and decided go install the Galfer pads I had sitting in my tool box.

You don't need to remove the calipers, I did in order to get the front wheel off.

This picture shows the brake pad cover, remove the two screws... pretty easy. This will allow you to gain access to the hairclip retaining pin.
DSC04033.jpg


You can see the retaining clip and pin.
DSC04034.jpg


The pieces removed.
DSC04036.jpg


The old and new pads....
DSC04038.jpg
 
(Wag @ Feb. 12 2007,22:24) Dude, changing the brake pads is about the second easiest thing to do on the bike.  Go for it!

Just remember to remove the reservoir cover before you compress the piston on the caliper.  The fluid level will rise again and should be sufficient.

Obviously, check the pad wear and make sure they actually need replacing.

Make sure you put the little clippies back in the same way they were before working on it.

What else . . . .

Oh, if the fluid is low and the pads are NOT worn, you could have a leak somewhere but frankly, I'd bet that's the lowest probability.  

Let us know how it goes!

--Wag--
after talking with the shop that is gonna be doin some work on my bike (qualifiers, chain, sprockets, and a few other things) they said they would do my brakes for 10 bucks.  after looking at the pics i know that i could do it myself but for 10 bucks (one night less of drinkin a few beers) i will let them do it since they are gonna be doing everything else.  i appreciate all the help here from the board!!!! i guess it pays to develop a good relationship with local shops. they do excellent work and arent out to get every penny i have in my pockets.

thanks again for all the replies!!!!
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