Slipper clutch

boofhead

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I have a Bking that I have setup for the track. Its taken me a while to get it to learn the bike and get it to where I want (coming from an Aprilia RSV4).
Now that I'm riding it more aggressively I'm noticing on downshifts anything above 6k RPM its locking the rear wheel (yes I blip the throttle), the higher the RPM the harder it locks.

I've been riding the RSV4 on track for years (it has a proper slipper clutch), I'm used to banging down the gears quickly and using lots of engine braking, you can feel when the slipper clutch is working cause the rear dances around but no locking.

I realize I'm going to have to try and change how I ride the BKing on track which is gonna make me slow as poop having to use less engine braking and try and remember to feather the clutch so I don't high side (how I ride is instinctive at this point so I'm not looking forward to this)

My fault I thought the Bking/Busa had a slipper clutch, after reading I find out it has a back torque limiter which works with launching the bike, but obviously doesn't allow much or any slip on high RPM downshifting like a slipper clutch you find on other 1000's.

So that brings me to the solution , get an aftermarket slipper clutch. Wondering if anyone has one or could recommend one ?

Cheers
 
Are you running the stock springs? I have felt the stock Busa clutch slipping on decel at higher rpms but can't comment on how good it is for track riding. A Bking is a bit of an odd choice for the track I must say.
 
Are you running the stock springs? I have felt the stock Busa clutch slipping on decel at higher rpms but can't comment on how good it is for track riding. A Bking is a bit of an odd choice for the track I must say.
A B-King is a big fatty...but will rail curves with a proper suspension setup.
 
Are you running the stock springs? I have felt the stock Busa clutch slipping on decel at higher rpms but can't comment on how good it is for track riding. A Bking is a bit of an odd choice for the track I must say.
Yeah I've set her up. Front has been resprung/revalved and rear has a gen2 busa shock that I just finished setting up (sag was out by a lot) which has reduced the locking substantially still happens a bit though.

Brembo master cylinder, braided lines, Vesrah pads, -1 +2 sprockets, de-catted, air box mod, woolich tune. I won't be pushing as hard as I would on my Aprilia track bike, just dial her in throughout the day and should be a lot of fun.

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My fault I thought the Bking/Busa had a slipper clutch, after reading I find out it has a back torque limiter which works with launching the bike, but obviously doesn't allow much or any slip on high RPM downshifting like a slipper clutch you find on other 1000's.

There are contrary ideas here.

Back torque is force from the rear wheel through the drivetrain opposing the engine drive force. When that force is applied the cam set in these clutches puts pressure on the clutch to move it towards disengagement. For clarity this is the same action as high RPM downshift slip.

Did you purchase this used, have you been in the clutch, and is the OEM cam set there, versus possibly a shiny brass-colored billet replacement from Brocks?

I experience jerky launches (I am not performing race launches either) and some here attribute this to the clutch, while others with these bikes state that they have no issues. The bad launch from an otherwise awesome sport bike seems to be an unintended consequence of this clutch, if not something else.
 
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There are contrary ideas here.

Back torque is force from the rear wheel through the drivetrain opposing the engine drive force. When that force is applied the cam set in these clutches puts pressure on the clutch to move it towards disengagement. For clarity this is the same action as high RPM downshift slip.

Did you purchase this used, have you been in the clutch, and is the OEM cam set there, versus possibly a shiny brass-colored billet replacement from Brocks?

I experience jerky launches (I am not performing race launches either) and some here attribute this to the clutch, while others with these bikes state that they have no issues. The bad launch from an otherwise awesome sport bike seems to be an unintended consequence of this clutch, if not something else.

But it does not perform the same.
Downshift at high rpm on a Gen1 or Gen2/B-king and either the rear tire slides or hops.
Try the same with a true slipper clutch, like a Gsxr1k, and the rear wheel will not slide or hop with a high rpm down shift.
 
I have an STM slipper in a gen 1 that definitely allows for much more aggressive downshifts.
The sprocket cover on a gen 1 needs reinforcement
the clutch pull is stiffer.
Will this fit a B king?
I don't know.

cheers
ken
 
riser bars on a track bike?
It's a factory dirtbike bar bike, so countless bar bends to choose from, to change all of the sizes of every angle.
Adding risers to a lower height bar can help you get a more comfortable wrist angle, while not actually rising the height of the bars.
Also, SuperMoto comes to mind...you would be suprised at just how much leverage and control that you can get from a setup like that, without being crunched down holding clip-on bars.
Also, once you've seen a 40hp SuperMoto pass a skilled rider on a 1000cc sportbike on a track or twisty road, all thoughts that the tall bars are a limitation disapear.
The only real disadvantage to taller bars is top speed, as your hands and arms are more in the wind and cause more drag.
This isn't a problem on most road courses.
And no, Superbike and Moto-GP don't use taller bars for just such reasons, but then again, those guys will smoke the best riders we've probably ever met, but it's a non-issue for us mere mortals, lol
 
It's a factory dirtbike bar bike, so countless bar bends to choose from, to change all of the sizes of every angle.
Adding risers to a lower height bar can help you get a more comfortable wrist angle, while not actually rising the height of the bars.
Also, SuperMoto comes to mind...you would be suprised at just how much leverage and control that you can get from a setup like that, without being crunched down holding clip-on bars.
Also, once you've seen a 40hp SuperMoto pass a skilled rider on a 1000cc sportbike on a track or twisty road, all thoughts that the tall bars are a limitation disapear.
The only real disadvantage to taller bars is top speed, as your hands and arms are more in the wind and cause more drag.
This isn't a problem on most road courses.
And no, Superbike and Moto-GP don't use taller bars for just such reasons, but then again, those guys will smoke the best riders we've probably ever met, but it's a non-issue for us mere mortals, lol
My 1200 Bandit set up like it was would give fits to 600s out on the back roads......they just couldn't believe how fast I could go through the corners on that thing.....those big wide bars sure do help.......that and a decent amount of torque.
 
My 1200 Bandit set up like it was would give fits to 600s out on the back roads......they just couldn't believe how fast I could go through the corners on that thing.....those big wide bars sure do help.......that and a decent amount of torque.

Oh yeah, my friend's 1200 Bandit has some serious torque low in the rpms, it hits hard around 3k, and is alot of fun to rip about on.
I talked to him the other day, and he'll be by with a new set of tires for it as soon as I make some more room.
And with warmer weather coming, we'll be doing alot more riding.
He's one to always come and take any one my bikes and leave his, which is always fun for both of us...I might as well own a 1200 Bandit now too, as if I want it I just go get it or he drops it off.
I've been very fortunate to have had a few close friends for many years who ride, as we've always traded bikes about.
It's this one that I posted here a year ago when we went and got it.
These go for $4k-$5k here, and still have quite the following...he paid $2500 or I think even better $2200 for it.
Full exhaust, 20k miles super clean, runs like a top.

Screenshot_20250327-121739_Gallery.webp


Screenshot_20250327-123015_Gallery.webp
 
Oh yeah, my friend's 1200 Bandit has some serious torque low in the rpms, it hits hard around 3k, and is alot of fun to rip about on.
I talked to him the other day, and he'll be by with a new set of tires for it as soon as I make some more room.
And with warmer weather coming, we'll be doing alot more riding.
He's one to always come and take any one my bikes and leave his, which is always fun for both of us...I might as well own a 1200 Bandit now too, as if I want it I just go get it or he drops it off.
I've been very fortunate to have had a few close friends for many years who ride, as we've always traded bikes about.
It's this one that I posted here a year ago when we went and got it.
These go for $4k-$5k here, and still have quite the following...he paid $2500 or I think even better $2200 for it.
Full exhaust, 20k miles super clean, runs like a top.

View attachment 1696772

View attachment 1696774
Mine was the first gen which all the bike mags in the day said was the angriest of the Bandits.......I put a GSXR exhaust cam in the intake, a full Hindle Ti system and stage 3 kit......it was fun as heck.....

......and they don't sell around here very well......I put mine up and it took a long time to sell....I was just about to take it off the buy and sell when I got a call.....the guy drove 2 hrs to get it and as soon as he saw and heard it, he wanted it with no bartering......

Before I listed it, I offered it to my older son for nothing.....he said he probably couldn't afford the insurance and I don't think he ever called to actually find out so he lost out on a great bike.
 
riser bars on a track bike?
I was a national level olympic weightlifter and I tore my right shoulder during a competition which required keyhole surgery to reattach ending my career. I could no longer overhead press anything beyond 300lb so switched to powerlifting and 5 years into that after reaching national level tore the shoulder again benching in a comp, this one finished the shoulder completely severed the supraspinatus, major surgery 5 inch scar.

So on track with the Aprilia after about 5-6 laps my shoulder is dead I can't keep proper body position can't keep the shoulder and elbow low enough and start to straighten it and because its the throttle hand if I stay out too long I'll make a mistake and bin it.

The main reason I wanted to try the King on track was specifically the risers and being less pitched forward. Low and behold so much better, obviously the way my shoulder has been reattached the elevated position of the bars and less pitch of the riding position put less stress on my shoulder I was doing 9-10 laps. My only gripe is the OEM rearsets are too low and you can't get enough lean without scraping them.

 
I was a national level olympic weightlifter and I tore my right shoulder during a competition which required keyhole surgery to reattach ending my career. I could no longer overhead press anything beyond 300lb so switched to powerlifting and 5 years into that after reaching national level tore the shoulder again benching in a comp, this one finished the shoulder completely severed the supraspinatus, major surgery 5 inch scar.

So on track with the Aprilia after about 5-6 laps my shoulder is dead I can't keep proper body position can't keep the shoulder and elbow low enough and start to straighten it and because its the throttle hand if I stay out too long I'll make a mistake and bin it.

The main reason I wanted to try the King on track was specifically the risers and being less pitched forward. Low and behold so much better, obviously the way my shoulder has been reattached the elevated position of the bars and less pitch of the riding position put less stress on my shoulder I was doing 9-10 laps. My only gripe is the OEM rearsets are too low and you can't get enough lean without scraping them.

That sucks that you got hurt enough to end your career.....those sorts of injuries tend to stay with you.

...................but...................awesome that you are out on the bikes and enjoying them....now you will have to find the right set up for you...

A set of rear-sets that gets the pegs up and back will help with ground clearance.....
 
The main reason I wanted to try the King on track was specifically the risers and being less pitched forward.
Well that makes sense then! Welldone for not shying away. I sold my last Busa to an Afghanistan vet who was blown through the turret hole of his armored vehicle on patrol when it ran over an ied. the rest of the crew died and they said he'd never walk again but he proved them wrong. I actually tried to talk him out of buying it, I said he's be far better off on something lighter, but when I saw his determination I backed off and handed it over.
 
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