small box mod

[samw5]

just did my small box mod and after everything was cleaned up and sealed I realized that the block off plate will sit right on the engine block.

I'm now wondering whether the regular 5min epoxy i used is just gonna melt (duh!).

Any thoughts?

 

[Professor]

It will be fine!

 

[samw5]

k thanks... i feel a bit reassured now!

 

[Don Hardcastle]

That is exactly the same stuff that I used over 12K miles ago. No probs what so ever and it looks good too.

Don

 

[rockadaous]

same here....

 

[HeloMech74]

yeah, no problems with using it. It will hold just fine.

 

[webbashl]

does this mod require a PC or is stock ok?

 

[samw5]

you will need a PC! I have yet to find a map for my setup (TRS full system, small box with stock filter). I'll eventually dump it on the dyno but for now I'm still putting things back together, hope I'll find a map before I drop the PC back on!

 

[Goes9s]

I'm confused why appoxy was used in this mod. Brocks instructions for an air box mod doesn't call for any appoxy or plates just cut and remove and replace stock filter. Can some one shed light on this? Thanks.

 

[Professor]

You can leave the stock actuator in place and just disconnect the linkage. Or you can remove it and block the hole by gluing a fabricated patch in place.

 

[Goes9s]

Thanks Professor - Is one way better than the other or are the results the same and its just preference?

 

[Professor]

I really don't think there would be any difference. It is just barely in the airflow. I didn't have time to wait for mine to harden and just left it in place. I might make a cover and glue it on the next time I have it apart.

 

[samw5]

5min epoxy!!! wut no time??? LOL, did you push a hole thru the box and toss it back on the bike?

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

I always cut a round plug out of the flapper that you remove. It's in your hand and you are gonna throw it away anyway. May as well get some use out of it.
I seal it in place with Ultra silicon, because it's sensor safe.
I don't know if that part is actually necessary. It's just the way I do it.

 

[Goes9s]

Here's what Brock had to say when he wrote me back:

Either way as long as it seals properly.

I leave the valve but remove the lever/spring cap assy"¦.we have heard of them falling out to be ingested into the $engine$!

BD

 

[samw5]

how does an engine ingest it?? hehe...

ya i agree, either way, the valve (opening) should remain closed.

I removed mine so that it would look cleaner. I ended up adding a couple of layers of exhaust tape i had left over on top of it so that it may help the epoxy from melting in case it gets too hot. I'll definitely be checking it from time to time (but my guess is that if the airbox isn't melting then the epoxy should be in good shape).

From the Brock perspective, I'm sure that it helps their sale by shaving install time by another 15min. It isn't huge but when it comes down to marketing every min counts.

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

Sam,
some folks(myself included) have a small box mod, but when at the track only use a lid to seal the box, NO filter.
If the valve arm were to come loose at that point, it would get sucked right into the throttle bodies.
That's another reason that I glue the plug to the outside of the airbox, instead of the inside.
I would hate to eat a plug at 140mph.

 

[Goes9s]

I still can't comprehend why people plug the valve hole. If you cut the box by design, remove the flap and linkage wouldn't that be easier, faster and give you the same results? Not sure why peoeple want to cut the non-functioning value completely out. Once the linkage is gone everything should be fine. Is that not correct. Don't want to cut the valve out if I don't have to.

 

[SLEEPERBUSA]

You are correct. It would just open and close itself, and wouldn't hurt a thing. I just take it off cause it's 1 more thing out of the way.
Personal choice. Plug the hose that runs to it, and remove it, or just leave it. Makes no difference.