small efforts in 2013

[B-12]

Here i went in 2013
Season has finished here in germany.
last race on sunday , and my new MTC hub lays in the customs office...waiting for monday morning ???

Could make some little efforts this year in topend due to a 35 dryshot.

9.42 > to 150 mph and 6.20 > nearly 122 in the 1/8th

But my 60s still suck..........never have seen a 1.5999999 , only 6es

So i decided to cut off the human error and will switch to a two stage lockup to solve my "cochones-problem" with some technical stuff for next season.
With a 50shot my baby could see the 8.99999 but the driver cant .........

Do you think just a twostage with MTC hub would help me in my 60s ? Need some advice how i could cut theese sucking 60s.

actual setup:
2001 model switched to 32bit (engine never opend , just valves checked)
stretched 4" to wheelstand of about 63" (its my daily driver)
handclutch with mod
Boostbysmith Quickshifter (not Airshifter)
Boostbysmith Shift-Launchlibht
16-43 gearing EK ZZZ530 chain (small boy ~170+ suited)
slammed with straps and links
Shinko Hook up running 8-12 PSI (unprepped airfields)
a mild 35 shot (mixed setup with WON pulsoids and the rest from Gixx and Goldenchild)

Here a nice pic i got from a good hobby fotographer
and my best slip 2013 scanned as pdf

 

[dadofthree]

Best of luck, interesting ride

 

[Stevo80]

I like the bike, the clutch will definitely help you if you can get it dialed in of course. Keep at it, and those 60's will come down either way.

 

[Dennis]

I'm not sure what the two stage is going to do for your 60's, but honestly at that length you should be able to go quicker than you are with a hand clutch. I've been 1.44 on unprepped concrete at 63-1/2" with a stock clutch + Brock's clutch mod. I have no special riding gift, I'm no better than anybody else. It just takes practice. You should go high 1.5's at stock wheelbase. Practice, practice, practice is what it is about. Then practice some more.

 

[Got-Busa?]

I'm not sure what the two stage is going to do for your 60's, but honestly at that length you should be able to go quicker than you are with a hand clutch. I've been 1.44 on unprepped concrete at 63-1/2" with a stock clutch + Brock's clutch mod. I have no special riding gift, I'm no better than anybody else. It just takes practice. You should go high 1.5's at stock wheelbase. Practice, practice, practice is what it is about. Then practice some more.

+1

 

[B-12]

I'm not sure what the two stage is going to do for your 60's, but honestly at that length you should be able to go quicker than you are with a hand clutch. I've been 1.44 on unprepped concrete at 63-1/2" with a stock clutch + Brock's clutch mod. I have no special riding gift, I'm no better than anybody else. It just takes practice. You should go high 1.5's at stock wheelbase. Practice, practice, practice is what it is about. Then practice some more.

I know ,nothing will bring better results than seattime.

But here in germany its not so easy . I had a total of 7 races this year and maybe 100-120 launches in whole season.
We dont have any permanent tracks to do some testing or training. At the big events with well prepped tracks there are so many cars and bikes that maybe only
10 launches can be done in the weekend.
Most events are at smaller airfields for sport planes. Not prepped and only 1 weekend in season.

Its much easyer to buy a clutch than practice.

greets from germany
Bernie

 

[Dennis]

I know ,nothing will bring better results than seattime.

But here in germany its not so easy . I had a total of 7 races this year and maybe 100-120 launches in whole season.
We dont have any permanent tracks to do some testing or training. At the big events with well prepped tracks there are so many cars and bikes that maybe only
10 launches can be done in the weekend.
Most events are at smaller airfields for sport planes. Not prepped and only 1 weekend in season.

Its much easyer to buy a clutch than practice.

greets from germany
Bernie

I understand completely. My best 60' with a hand clutch is 1.410 and I've tried lots of stuff trying to get quicker and finally decided to spend the money on a Rock Solid clutch. I'm still figuring out how to tune it with hopes of going much quicker 60's than I have.

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

The only thing with that clutch is that you are going to have a hard time getting it to work properly at the "short" length your bike is. They really like a bike that is 68" plus. My bike is 64.5", and I had the lightest springs in that MTC sells (super soft) and it was still too much static. I had to put two stock springs in along with 4 Super just to get it to launch. You may have to run three stock springs. Then shim them till it tries to lift the wheel on the launch, then back off on the shims a little. I am running 2-.050" shims on the stock springs to get close on my static.

I was trying to run by MTC's recommendtions, but the bike would launch, then violently wheelie as the arms came in. Changing the springs under the arms just moved the wheelie further out. I ended up with no washers on the arms at all, just the nut and bolt. Try using 3 #9 springs, and 3 # 13 springs to start.

The hardest part is going up there and launching around 5k and just throwing the clutch out and going WOT. If you can't do this, your clutch will never work. It will probably take you at least 5 passes to get the balls to do it, trust me!

 

[DRAGRAC€R]

Try a MTC multistage

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

Wow, I just saw that he has a two stage and not a Multi.......

That is not going to help much, IMO

 

[DRAGRAC€R]

That is not going to help much, IMO

Yup

especially with that short wheelbase

 

[B-12]

Thanks guys
not so good news for me....but hope dies last lease:

all i read is that getting a multistage to work is a hard thing.
Thats why i only have the lockup.
Second reason is ,at some passes when my bottle pressure is high (summer and sun) clutch slips from 2nd to 3 shift or maybe at higher rpms in 2nd (use just a Quickshifter ,no airshifter). I have stronger springs ,but they didnt hold it at that moment.

How about more working with the weights on the arms than with springs ? I could use alu-bolts ??
That should let pressure raise later < at higher rpms

I know how it should work and what it shall do , but i am new to the "reality"
Can test on road just with PilotPower as the Shinkos are not allowed on german roads (speed index way to low),and it will cost me a lot of bucks for a ticket. Nitros is tested and clutch holds just with the bolts and one washer. 198rwp on my small shot.

yes yes Ludicrous.......the balls

 

[DRAGRAC€R]

as Ive said, try a multistage.
its not that complicated to tune it if you understand how it works.
BTW: watch your stack height after every run....very important!

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

I never had clutch slip on my last bike with N20

Stock clutches with billet hub and Brocks cushion with HD springs. Went 5.98 in the 1/8th with my 250 lb butt on it1

 

[sportbikeryder]

What is teh bike doing when you take off?
Are you lifting teh front end or are you bogging?

If you want your et to come around without having much power, you need to do it in the first 300ft.
While a snowflake clutch can be setup to help your launch, you will likely see no benefits from it without extensive tuning.
I would lower the bike more than you have it and concentrate on having teh throttle wide open within about 8-10 ft from the starting line.
With just a 35 shot, I'd probably spray it right after getting the throttle open at the top of first.

Without seeing your pass I can;t be sure, but you are probably hesitating in first gear because you have to concentrate on getting your foot up to shift. An sir shifter would allow you to concentrate on teh throttle and clutch rather than adding your foot and foot shifting to the mix.

John

 

[B-12]

What is teh bike doing when you take off?
Are you lifting teh front end or are you bogging?

If you want your et to come around without having much power, you need to do it in the first 300ft.
While a snowflake clutch can be setup to help your launch, you will likely see no benefits from it without extensive tuning.
I would lower the bike more than you have it and concentrate on having teh throttle wide open within about 8-10 ft from the starting line.
With just a 35 shot, I'd probably spray it right after getting the throttle open at the top of first.

Without seeing your pass I can;t be sure, but you are probably hesitating in first gear because you have to concentrate on getting your foot up to shift. An sir shifter would allow you to concentrate on teh throttle and clutch rather than adding your foot and foot shifting to the mix.

John

Thanks
its just as you wrote.
I am not at WOT fast enough and i know it .Sometimes its bogging ,sometimes just a litle lift about 1" . And i start spray on mid second.
It is low , but my tail raises and so my seat is to high even on the lowered bike. Its not ideal ,but i like the look and spended a lot of everything in the mod.
Mainly its the leak of seattime , to get more automatism in my launch.
I concentrate on throtle ,slipping the clutch ,lift my foot and hit the button at the right time. Maybe to much for my old brain to coordinate.

So i try to cut some action. with the snowflake i hope to just let the clutch snap and no more need to slip it.
step by step i will make efforts.

I am not unhappy with all this because i have so much fun on the track , only thing is i know my bike could run low nines or even high eights......
and i am not able to unleash it

 

[B-12]

Some news

went with the MTC 2 stage (with basket) and could lower my 60s a bit. Now constant 1.6 but still waiting for the 1.5???
Setup with the stock gen1 springs and no shims. Just the bolts and nuts on arms without washers. exactly 4" stretched and 17/44 (i am about 186lbs) Lowered the way i have 2.5" groundclearance to the stock flipper ! (will lower another .5")

Best Et now with a 1.62 > 6.1 on the 1/8 > 9.34 on the 1/4 to exactly152mph
Topspeed averege is about 150-152 with a absolute high of 153.7 on a 30-4 shot (2001,gen1) so there is power enough to go still faster

Needed some runs to get the right feeling for the soft "grip" as i had strong springs before.
Had only abot 20 launches on 2 events so far ,but get now a better "feeling" when launching it with more rpms.(5k)
Maybe its only a psychological effect...but works and gives me more confidence so i will make some more efforts.

Thanks for your advices and helping hints

 

[Stevo80]

Congrats, keep at it!!!

 

[B-12]

Hello again
small efforts now in 2015

same procedure as every year
A little report about my season.

we have been lucky having a test and tune in may in CZ and could do about 30 launches that weekend , so seattime at season beginning
was a good help to get it on faster.
Found the best gearing for me at 17/43 with a 40 shot to stock motor and 4" stretched and 2" lowered front and rear.

With no changes in setup i could start season with constant 9.4x on spray and low 9.6 on motor.
i am running ET class with bikes from 11.5 to 8.5 , so consitance is important under all circumstances and tracks.
Now i am constant at 1.61 to 1.64 60ft no matter if simple airfield or prepped track

Startet season with dial ins at a range 9.42 to 9.35 and had some nice hits
During season i made good efforts and the last three races hit my dial ins on the point with
9.23
9.21
and the last one with a new "anounced" PB 9.18 so three times top qualifier and
so i could win our small championship.

Best run (on 2001 never opened engine) is now 9.50 motor and 9.18 at a 40 shot
Thanks for all tips and advice here. I am not so much writing ,but i always have a loock at the tech parts of this forum and 1/4 and nitrous threads.

I know i am still to slow on WOT , and maybe could go to 17/44 ,but i work on it and next season i dream of the 8.99
My Busa can do it ,and so will i....hopefully :rolleyes2:

I am on the wrong PC now , but wil post some pics later.

 

[Dennis]

Awesome! Just do a little more each year. Small things add up. Set next year's goal now and work for it!