Smart TRE and Pair Valve benefits

Jose J Ortega

Registered
Was just doing some homework around and I saw a post that Busa's are prone to uneven idling that many had found that the original TRE was the cause for there problem. Some they just fitted a Smart TRE, loads available on ebay and they fix the issue. That the unit recognises when the bike is in neutral and turns off, the standard TRE doesn't and whatever the technical reasons are (someone will know) tells the bike it is in 5th gear. If you pull in the clutch while the idle is high you should see a drop of about 500 RPM. Also that they have cured the back popping by removing the PAIR valve or the cheap 5 minute trick is to put a marble in the PAIR feed from the airbox, the one on the brake lever side just above the throttle linkage. Thanks in advance

My question is :
Is all this true? What other benefits the Smart Tre and removing the Pair Valve gives to the busa?
 
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Before u go plugging in parts and guessing... when u get the motorcycle together and running... u should spend the 200 dollars and have a COMPETENT tuner look at it and dial it in... that way u wont melt anything and itll give you peace of mind,
 
Mine never popped --almost never at all. I still removed the PAIR for AFR tuning purposes and to loose the unnecessary weight. I would suggest using a dowel and hose clamp instead of a marble and zip ties just for a little added security if you just block the hose. Also, the busa needs a terminator plug if you take the PAIR off. I've had no issues from removing the PAIR.

My 14 pops every time I cut the throttle. Always at the same rpms, 6000 and 3000. PAIR block on that reduced it by about 33%. PAIR removal made no change but it's a nice weight loss and clears space at the top of the engine. I happen to like the popping but it was absolutely insane with the PAIR operational.

BUSA PAIR ELIMINATION>> https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/thre...d-reed-cover-removal-block-off-plates.168731/

As for the HealTech smart TRE, I'm considering it for the 14 first. Mainly I like the gear indicator since any TRE will lock the ECU and stock gear indicator to one gear map. A single gear map should be beneficial for AFR and timing tuning with modules like PC5 and Ignition Module. The TRE will eliminate timing restrictions in all gears if gear map 5, 6 or N is selected. The flies map is locked to the same gear map. Maybe the Neutral idle issue with a TRE is caused by flies mapping. Flies should be open in Neutral at all throttle positions. If the N map is chosen, that would seem to provide proper flies control in Neutral as well as eliminate timing restrictions in all gears and provide the single fuel map for self tuning AFR. Only problem is, the busa likes flies partially closed at low rpm small TPs. ...so I think a TRE of any kind might be solving one problem and causing another.

Glad you brought this up. It gave me the opportunity to think out loud about it. Flies tuning is important on the busa. On the 14, we just rip em out.

I recently purchased an ECU Editor box from Boost By Smith. Greg Smith is a busy guy but he's here on the forum. I have not had the opportunity to play with ECU editor yet. I'm sure it has the ability to remove all timing restrictions but the problem would be to find the optimum adjustment for every single cell in each of the timing gear maps. The TRE would just lock to an optimum timing map. No need to know what that map looks like, it should cause zero timing restriction. If you custom tune by module, flash or ECU Editor, you need to know the correct plusses and minuses. I do not think anyone who knows those numbers (like Ivan) will tell you. You probably could get a generally accepted safe and effective timing curve from someone and that probably is sufficient. I'm a perfectionist and I'd like to have the timing table 100% spot on and that is the reason for my interest in TREs.

Before investing in the smart TRE, I'd check into ECU Editor. It will cost you less and offer a whole lot more.

If you get a smart TRE, get a Healtech GIPro. I've read the Chinese cheapies fail.

If you are not an ardent DIYer, just let a good flasher do your ECU. I've done a lot of work on my bike and I guess I'm starting to consider myself more advanced than a beginner but self tuning has been the most intense learning experience out of everything and I mean by a longshot. I have all the info for beginner self tuning of AFR if you are interested but it will still be many hours of study and road tuning. ...and there is much busa specific info I don't know yet.
 
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If the N map is chosen, that would seem to provide proper flies control in Neutral as well as eliminate timing restrictions in all gears and provide the single fuel map for self tuning AFR. Only problem is, the busa likes flies partially closed at low rpm small TPs. ...so I think a TRE of any kind might be solving one problem and causing another.

..but a smart TRE avoids that. It goes to N for N and 5 or 6 (or whichever gear mapping you select) for all other gears. I still think the GIPro ATRE is going to be worth the extra $$.

The only question is, "is optimum flies mapping the same for gear 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6?" Probably, if power is the main objective.

https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/gipro/gpat/

or just get a tune.
 
Before u go plugging in parts and guessing... when u get the motorcycle together and running... u should spend the 200 dollars and have a COMPETENT tuner look at it and dial it in... that way u wont melt anything and itll give you peace of mind,

Hi Ali123... I am not planning to buy it. Was just verifying the advantage to have a Smart TRE. But thanks for the advice
 
Mine never popped --almost never at all. I still removed the PAIR for AFR tuning purposes and to loose the unnecessary weight. I would suggest using a dowel and hose clamp instead of a marble and zip ties just for a little added security if you just block the hose. Also, the busa needs a terminator plug if you take the PAIR off. I've had no issues from removing the PAIR.

My 14 pops every time I cut the throttle. Always at the same rpms, 6000 and 3000. PAIR block on that reduced it by about 33%. PAIR removal made no change but it's a nice weight loss and clears space at the top of the engine. I happen to like the popping but it was absolutely insane with the PAIR operational.

BUSA PAIR ELIMINATION>> https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/thre...d-reed-cover-removal-block-off-plates.168731/

As for the HealTech smart TRE, I'm considering it for the 14 first. Mainly I like the gear indicator since any TRE will lock the ECU and stock gear indicator to one gear map. A single gear map should be beneficial for AFR and timing tuning with modules like PC5 and Ignition Module. The TRE will eliminate timing restrictions in all gears if gear map 5, 6 or N is selected. The flies map is locked to the same gear map. Maybe the Neutral idle issue with a TRE is caused by flies mapping. Flies should be open in Neutral at all throttle positions. If the N map is chosen, that would seem to provide proper flies control in Neutral as well as eliminate timing restrictions in all gears and provide the single fuel map for self tuning AFR. Only problem is, the busa likes flies partially closed at low rpm small TPs. ...so I think a TRE of any kind might be solving one problem and causing another.

Glad you brought this up. It gave me the opportunity to think out loud about it. Flies tuning is important on the busa. On the 14, we just rip em out.

I recently purchased an ECU Editor box from Boost By Smith. Greg Smith is a busy guy but he's here on the forum. I have not had the opportunity to play with ECU editor yet. I'm sure it has the ability to remove all timing restrictions but the problem would be to find the optimum adjustment for every single cell in each of the timing gear maps. The TRE would just lock to an optimum timing map. No need to know what that map looks like, it should cause zero timing restriction. If you custom tune by module, flash or ECU Editor, you need to know the correct plusses and minuses. I do not think anyone who knows those numbers (like Ivan) will tell you. You probably could get a generally accepted safe and effective timing curve from someone and that probably is sufficient. I'm a perfectionist and I'd like to have the timing table 100% spot on and that is the reason for my interest in TREs.

Before investing in the smart TRE, I'd check into ECU Editor. It will cost you less and offer a whole lot more.

If you get a smart TRE, get a Healtech GIPro. I've read the Chinese cheapies fail.

If you are not an ardent DIYer, just let a good flasher do your ECU. I've done a lot of work on my bike and I guess I'm starting to consider myself more advanced than a beginner but self tuning has been the most intense learning experience out of everything and I mean by a longshot. I have all the info for beginner self tuning of AFR if you are interested but it will still be many hours of study and road tuning. ...and there is much busa specific info I don't know yet.

Great info Mythos... Thank you for taking your time to clarify me all my questions. I really appreciate
 
Mine never popped --almost never at all. I still removed the PAIR for AFR tuning purposes and to loose the unnecessary weight. I would suggest using a dowel and hose clamp instead of a marble and zip ties just for a little added security if you just block the hose. Also, the busa needs a terminator plug if you take the PAIR off. I've had no issues from removing the PAIR.

My 14 pops every time I cut the throttle. Always at the same rpms, 6000 and 3000. PAIR block on that reduced it by about 33%. PAIR removal made no change but it's a nice weight loss and clears space at the top of the engine. I happen to like the popping but it was absolutely insane with the PAIR operational.

BUSA PAIR ELIMINATION>> https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/thre...d-reed-cover-removal-block-off-plates.168731/

As for the HealTech smart TRE, I'm considering it for the 14 first. Mainly I like the gear indicator since any TRE will lock the ECU and stock gear indicator to one gear map. A single gear map should be beneficial for AFR and timing tuning with modules like PC5 and Ignition Module. The TRE will eliminate timing restrictions in all gears if gear map 5, 6 or N is selected. The flies map is locked to the same gear map. Maybe the Neutral idle issue with a TRE is caused by flies mapping. Flies should be open in Neutral at all throttle positions. If the N map is chosen, that would seem to provide proper flies control in Neutral as well as eliminate timing restrictions in all gears and provide the single fuel map for self tuning AFR. Only problem is, the busa likes flies partially closed at low rpm small TPs. ...so I think a TRE of any kind might be solving one problem and causing another.

Glad you brought this up. It gave me the opportunity to think out loud about it. Flies tuning is important on the busa. On the 14, we just rip em out.

I recently purchased an ECU Editor box from Boost By Smith. Greg Smith is a busy guy but he's here on the forum. I have not had the opportunity to play with ECU editor yet. I'm sure it has the ability to remove all timing restrictions but the problem would be to find the optimum adjustment for every single cell in each of the timing gear maps. The TRE would just lock to an optimum timing map. No need to know what that map looks like, it should cause zero timing restriction. If you custom tune by module, flash or ECU Editor, you need to know the correct plusses and minuses. I do not think anyone who knows those numbers (like Ivan) will tell you. You probably could get a generally accepted safe and effective timing curve from someone and that probably is sufficient. I'm a perfectionist and I'd like to have the timing table 100% spot on and that is the reason for my interest in TREs.

Before investing in the smart TRE, I'd check into ECU Editor. It will cost you less and offer a whole lot more.

If you get a smart TRE, get a Healtech GIPro. I've read the Chinese cheapies fail.

If you are not an ardent DIYer, just let a good flasher do your ECU. I've done a lot of work on my bike and I guess I'm starting to consider myself more advanced than a beginner but self tuning has been the most intense learning experience out of everything and I mean by a longshot. I have all the info for beginner self tuning of AFR if you are interested but it will still be many hours of study and road tuning. ...and there is much busa specific info I don't know yet.

Great info I am a Ardent DIY person lol. But need to learn and understand more about editing and what all the numbers are lol
 
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The benefits I see with the New Smart TRE is a big bright gear indicator and the ability to switch it off and go to normal mapping. You can also leave the stock mapping in place and just turn off the top speed limiter. The drawbacks are increased stuff on your bike and the potential for electrical issues.

If you have your ECU flashed you have no options to turn it off without reflashing the ECU. You also don't have additional stuff on your bike that can cause problems.

I would just get your ECU flashed.
 
The benefits I see with the New Smart TRE is a big bright gear indicator and the ability to switch it off and go to normal mapping. You can also leave the stock mapping in place and just turn off the top speed limiter. The drawbacks are increased stuff on your bike and the potential for electrical issues.

If you have your ECU flashed you have no options to turn it off without reflashing the ECU. You also don't have additional stuff on your bike that can cause problems.

I would just get your ECU flashed.
Thank you for the info E Zurcher. Need to find out who can flash my ECU
 
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