riccoh
Registered
First i will like to say thanks to all the ones (you all know who they are) that made this an interesting mod for the busas...
they look great and set the bikes of the ones that muster the courage to take things apart worth it....( I use to be one of those who always paid others to do my maint and upgrades)
With that:
I did the led tail and swithcbacks.. here are some things to consider if you (like me) hate cutting or splicing the factory hardness:
if you are going the cheaper route, instead of LED Towers (switchbacks) you could use the following and keep the OEM bliking rate:
1. L/P has the 2 pole flaser relay if you only change the untertail and need to slow down the bliker rate back to OEM (part #122-7500/$12.99)
2. L/P also carries the stock front and rear blinker connectors so you dont have to cut the original sockets that come out of your housings for the turn signals (part #122-9654/$5.95)
3. NAPA part # 1157A/$5.99 (amber dual filament bulbs).
4. For lighting you license plate after the undatail install you could use the BOLT/FX led license plate LED bolts (part #642-1210/$12.99)
If you have all leds then you will need one of the following (all found at NAPA Auto parts for around $12.99)intead of the LP 2 pole relay:
1. Tricco flasher relay (part # EP-35)
2. Tridon flasher relay (part # EP-35)
3. Standard Motors flasher relay (part #ALFP 9)
installation was almost identical as the (switchback led towers-by OMHSLAW), however I did the realy a little different:
1. when conneting the factory tail light sockets, I use the L/P factory connectors and it's strait forward.
2. For the brown wires (running lights) I connected that to the 12 V supply on the spare connector from the nose
3. I also added a black wire to the connector (plug) in the nose to connect the EP-35 relay so that I don't need to break the insulation on the hardness.
For Safety,
I soldered all the wires/connectors, waterproof everything with heat shrink, and is totally plug and play...
As mention earlier, I tried both versions and have created a spare hardness and will really take me only a few minutes to go back to original with no damage to the original hardness... but really don't see a reason for removing my switchbacks...
they look great and set the bikes of the ones that muster the courage to take things apart worth it....( I use to be one of those who always paid others to do my maint and upgrades) With that:
I did the led tail and swithcbacks.. here are some things to consider if you (like me) hate cutting or splicing the factory hardness:
if you are going the cheaper route, instead of LED Towers (switchbacks) you could use the following and keep the OEM bliking rate:
1. L/P has the 2 pole flaser relay if you only change the untertail and need to slow down the bliker rate back to OEM (part #122-7500/$12.99)
2. L/P also carries the stock front and rear blinker connectors so you dont have to cut the original sockets that come out of your housings for the turn signals (part #122-9654/$5.95)
3. NAPA part # 1157A/$5.99 (amber dual filament bulbs).
4. For lighting you license plate after the undatail install you could use the BOLT/FX led license plate LED bolts (part #642-1210/$12.99)
If you have all leds then you will need one of the following (all found at NAPA Auto parts for around $12.99)intead of the LP 2 pole relay:
1. Tricco flasher relay (part # EP-35)
2. Tridon flasher relay (part # EP-35)
3. Standard Motors flasher relay (part #ALFP 9)
installation was almost identical as the (switchback led towers-by OMHSLAW), however I did the realy a little different:
1. when conneting the factory tail light sockets, I use the L/P factory connectors and it's strait forward.
2. For the brown wires (running lights) I connected that to the 12 V supply on the spare connector from the nose
3. I also added a black wire to the connector (plug) in the nose to connect the EP-35 relay so that I don't need to break the insulation on the hardness.
For Safety,
I soldered all the wires/connectors, waterproof everything with heat shrink, and is totally plug and play...
As mention earlier, I tried both versions and have created a spare hardness and will really take me only a few minutes to go back to original with no damage to the original hardness... but really don't see a reason for removing my switchbacks...
