Spacer plate and timing chain
- Thread starter markwt
- Start date
I believe so...wait for an expert to say whats up though...it seems hard to get a chain that would be a minor oversize. Here is a link for a different size chain...might be for a longer stroke rod... Vance & Hines Heavy Duty Cam Chain Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa (99-13)
There's plenty, but if your worried about it RCC makes a tensioner spacer that spaces it out a bit.
The spacer plate to space the tensioner out a bit is normally only necessary with a brand-new cam chain. The stock cam chain and tensioner will work fine with an .080" spacer plate in most cases.
I have never heard of anyone having to change the chain due to adding the plate so I figured it would be fine. I am pretty positive that my starting problems that I am having is that my cam are degreed incorrectly. Does anyone have a photo of their cams with APE adjustable sprockets degreed around 105 intake/ 106 exhaust at TDC. Just want to see where they should be so I can see if mine are off.
It would be nice to "eyeball" the cams and see where they are - then I could throw away my degree wheel and dial indicator. That is just not possible. Look at the diagram in the service manual when the motor is at top dead center - you will see where "approximately" the lobes should be . . . anywhere close to that, the motor should either start, pop, fart, or do something encouraging. Degreeing you own cams - for the first time - on a build like yours is not always the high road to take . . .
I completely agree with you. I do have a degree wheel and indicator which is what I set it with but apparently I did not do it correctly if it will not start. The pic was just to see if I was infact off and that was my issue but I don't see anything other it could be. Unfortunetly I could not find anyone in Pittsburgh that can degree the came, therefore I did myself.
OZBooster
Registered
Simple indication that there in the ball park is at tdc (and check your crank sprocket is fitted dot to dot on pre 05 bikes)
the fine line on the camshaft at the sprocket end , on the exhaust should be pretty much parrallel with the gasket surface of the head facing forward
and the inlet should be angled up slightly from the gasket surface facing back
remember there are 2 tdc when your working with cams , if its at the wrong one rotate another 360 crank degrees
I used to know the lift at tdc , which is another simple way of quick referencing, but can only remember my 750s , if i find the busa i will post
the fine line on the camshaft at the sprocket end , on the exhaust should be pretty much parrallel with the gasket surface of the head facing forward
and the inlet should be angled up slightly from the gasket surface facing back
remember there are 2 tdc when your working with cams , if its at the wrong one rotate another 360 crank degrees
I used to know the lift at tdc , which is another simple way of quick referencing, but can only remember my 750s , if i find the busa i will post
The spacer plate to space the tensioner out a bit is normally only necessary with a brand-new cam chain. The stock cam chain and tensioner will work fine with an .080" spacer plate in most cases.
So like I said, there's plenty.
