Spit an' Polish...

rubbersidedown

TURBO-BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
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Going to start polishing today . About 4 seconds after you have polished a piece of metal it will start to oxidize .

Anyone had good success shootin' a couple of layers of clear over the top . Acyllic ? Laqu ? To stop it from gettin' ugly if you get caught in the rain , etc .

I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with chrome wheels .
Where did you buy yers?
Is the chrome it standing up?

P.S. Please check out my add in the classified section....

my job as the janitor at the local Mime school doesn't pay $hit . So I should part with some shtuff . Anyone need leathers,full exhaust,wind screens,PC II, etc....?

Hav a good 1...RSD.
 
Get some of ZOOP's polish and sealant . The polished parts will shine for a while even after getting wet .
 
I tried to clear a couple of parts...Didn't workout well...I use Blue Magic to clean with and it holds up really well...Chromed rims couple of years holding up fine...
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I was reading on this the other day on suzukihayabusa.org. The problem is that nothing really bonds the the polished metal as it is too smooth of a surface. The folks over there (cant remember their names) said that the things that they found that would stick to the metal, would create a haze taking away from the look you are going for.

I have been researching for the same thing cuz stuff rusts really, really fast over here in okinawa. But I have not found anything yet. If you find something that works please gimme a shout! -Bill
 
They can do a clear powder coat that protects polished surfaces. If you saw the show "Rides" when they built the full size Hot Wheel Car, that is what they did to the exhaust and some other engine parts.
 
they have to have something they been clearing bear aluminum on auto rims for years check with a place that reconditions rims and see what they say ive seen peaple clear rims but havent seen what they look like after time no laquer though catilized urithane clear coat
 
thx busa,trull,orange...the search continues . I was told of a product once , but of course didn't write it down . . I hear what yer saying about the highly polished surface havin' no place for sprayed products to stick too . When I paint I rarely sand beyond 320 for that reason ...
Hav a good day gentleman....RSD.
 
I've heard ZOOPSeal is good and actually works. Regular automotive clear will peel after a short time. Most "cleared" aluminum rims are actually clear annodized from the factory.

Here's a link to check out ZOOPSeal. The Caswell site also has forums. Lots of knowledgeable polishers in there. Maybe you could post there and get better advice than we can give ya here.
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http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/zoopseal.html
 
I've heard ZOOPSeal is good and actually works. Regular automotive clear will peel after a short time. Most "cleared" aluminum rims are actually clear annodized from the factory.

Here's a link to check out ZOOPSeal. The Caswell site also has forums. Lots of knowledgeable polishers in there. Maybe you could post there and get better advice than we can give ya here.
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http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/zoopseal.html
ahh BT , yer a gentleman , and a scholar ....
No thats not right.....yer a real good....
No thats not right either....yer a great gu.....

awe fug it . yer a jerk , just like eveyone else .
 
Jus kiddin' train , I should have just called the "Master Paint Slapper" to begin with . Should have known....YOU'D BE IN THE KNOW .
thx Chris .
 
Not a problem, bro. I seem to remember some guy from Canada hookin' me up back in the day.
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I want to get some ZOOPSeal to try. If you get it before I do, let me know what you think of it.

Signed,
The Jerk... Hehehehehehe...
 
Awesome BT! Exactly what I have been looking for. $130 is worth not having to worry about the condition of my polishing. I will be grabbing some of this and trying it later this year. I am still doing performance upgrades, then I am going cosmetic.
 
Little secret from the pros..ask Guy Caputo, he'll agree...After polishing at the highest level use PURE carnuba wax. Clear coats always bubble or oxideze from the ammonia in the polishing process, best way to polish is a 12 to 1 ratio of Muriatic Acid and Purified water and dowse with water almost at the same time DO NOT TRY THIS UNLESS YOU ARE FAMiliar with Muriatic Acid. Used to clean Concrete and Swimming pools It eats aluminum and burns it. But I actually have used it on a Harley project to burn the Aluminum Black and then Polished which came out almost as good as an epoxy baked Black High Gloss. Be careful, but to clean and polish use Alcoa Green It is the best stuff around and it has a built in sealer. Available at Most Truck Stops or Larger Commercial Truck Dealers (Sterling, Ford, International, CAT,...etc.)

Roy:O
 
RSD, sorry to tell ya bro but thats the down side to polishin' . A suggestion would be to get your stuff shinin' real good and have someone powder coat your stuff with clear powdercoat. A friend of mine has a 69' Camaro and powder coats almost every thing on it. He never had a problem with clear. Its way better than just a paint on clearcoat.

I can get you info on the product if you need it.



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Well, I don't have any polished bike parts cleared, but I did have my 93 cobra wheels clear powder coated. It works great!! No more having to re-polish the wheels after it rained and it held it's shine for a long long time. Only downfall is that it loses a little bit of it's luster when you coat it. But, if you did the wheels, the frame would be far enough away from them that you wouldn't notice the difference. BTW, everything has to be removed from the rim since they have to bring it to 400+ degrees to cure the powder.
 
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