sprocket talk

H

hayabusa_83

Registered
im sure im gonna hear a million different opinions but here goes... obviously the 16/42 sprockets are the most common upgrade, referred to as the "wheelie/accelereation package" a busa i ride with, insists i just drop a tooth in the front, and run a 16/40 setup... but then id hafta get a shorter chain right? people have tried to explain the dropping a tooth up front is like adding two back there... well im still lost...
rock.gif

i need a good explaination/ ideas in lehmans terms, b/c i want them real soon... top speed isnt the most important anymore, i just want the bike to pull harder.... and be faster on the street.
Brian~
 
I've got a 16/40 setup right now and I can tell a difference in torque. It's easier to ride. No, you don't have to get a shorter chain, just replace the sprocket and you're good to go. I will eventually get a 42 rear. Go ahead and do it, you will be glad you did. Still screams up top.
 
well my question is a little different i just changed out my reae sprocket to a 42 will i be able to keep my stock chain also what effect does that have on the bike using the 17/42 setup



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I tried all the combos of 16T and 17T fronts with 40/41/42T rears and the stock chain worked on all of them.
A 16T front raises RPM's 6.25% over a 17T front. On the rear, each tooth over the stock 40T raises the RPM's 2.5%. So, one down tooth less on the front sprocket equals exactly the same as +2.5T on the rear.
As an example, the popular 16/42 gearing would be the same as 17T front and 44.625 rear (+4.625T), but, last I looked, they were not making a 44.625T rear sprocket. That .625T is a very complicated gear to cut for a chain wheel.
 
so what is the advantage of the 17/42 or 43 over a 16/42? top end is not an issue... acceleration?,wheelies?,loss of MPG? dependability?
helpme out here ~Thanks
 
Everything is give and take. You want to change gears, but don't really say why besides "Pull harder".

when you gear to pull harder, you are also going to get that front end up easier, faster acceleration, and a loss of mpg if you do alot of highway crusing. As you gear up in the back/down up front, your engine is going to turn faster doing the same speed in the same gear. You are going to loose top end speed, and shift more often in town. While you will accelerate faster, it doesn't mean you are going to win that stoplight race.

An actual clearly laid out intent will help get the answer you want.

gears are a way of multiplying torque. <span style='color:blue'>stock is 17f 40r which is 2.352
first gear is 2.615</span>

<span style='color:blue'>2.352 x 2.615 = 6.15</span>
98ftlb torque x 6.15 = 602.75ftlb torque hitting the rear wheel. *STOCK*


<span style='color:blue'>16F 42R = 2.625
2.625 X 2.615 = 6.86</span>
98ftlb torque x 6.86 = 672.71ftlb torque hitting the rear wheel.

That's a 70ftlb difference just changing gears. Yes, it's going to pull harder. but...... the 11.5% difference is going to cost you in top end. <span style='color:blue'>186mph vs 165mph</span> (don't have the gear calculator handy, but that's all off of my own numbers.
 
I'm running 17/42 and love it. If you ride two up and/or live in hilly terrain, it's the ticket. Fayetteville, Ar is basically built on the side of a hill, many streets are steep and winding. The 42 made starting out on a steep hill with her on the back a snap, feels much easier on the drivetrain. In the twisties, it rocks...I can now pull the front wheel just a bit coming out of the corners and I shift less. Plus, with the stock chain, you shorten the wheel base up a tad, falls a little quicker into the corner. Still need to get a healer to correct the speedo. If ya can, go with a tri-metal sidewinder rear sprocket. Kind of spendy but hell, it's a busa....if possible, always best to change both sprockets and chain together for consistant wear and longevity. I like the stock Suzuki 17t front because it has rubber dampners for noise, harshness and vibration. It will "sing" a little less. And, since I replaced the cheap ek stock chain with a DID zvm 530 x-ring, I only adjust when I change a rear tire, about every 2500 miles. Hope this helps!
 
It just comes down to how you ride, 16/42 is better for drag racing, may be a little harder on the chain. 17/42 is right for me, but I live at 800' above sea level and am realizing all my stock power. 17/42 makes 1st almost unmanagable, roll it on and she stands straight up or frys the tire if it's cold. 2nd is a blast, nice controllable power wheelies. Now, if I lived at 5280', I would have to go 16/42 to comensate for the loss of power from the thin air. Down here, 16/42 may be a little much for me, I kind of like the front end to stay planted above second gear. What are you trying to accomplish?
 
(hayabusa_83 @ Oct. 08 2005 said:
so im missing something here.... what advantage does 16/42 haveover 17/42? pros? cons?
rock.gif
Click to expand...
16/42 at highway speeds your looking for another gear but, not many people hangin with you on roll ons
17/42 It will feel like the bike is reving a little higher than stock but, roll ons are not as drastic
I don't drag race but, I do like the 16/42 combo
 
like i said b4, i do alot of street riding. commuting mostly but come weekends, i open er up... me and some friend hit the road, not much of a stoplight racer, but love the occasional roll ons! its obvious, that both the 16 and 17/42 gears raise up the front....but im also lowered 2.5" so that helps out alot...like i stated b4, i want a good setup that will improve my acceleration/roll-ons dramatically, but also reliable for the bike,etc also stated was top speed: not an issue anymore....just wanna get there real fast...
thanks
 
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