Stage 1 Gen 1 HP

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PfrikinF

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New to the site and I must say, Damn! Lots of info! I'm also new to the turbo scene. Just picked mine up this last fall. Seems to run good and all but I went to a bike show and there was a mobile dyno. Paid the man $25 and got 3 passes. 1st - 220RHP. 2nd & 3rd - 206RHP. It is a stage 1 Velocity Racing kit with an 8 lbs spring and a pc3. That is literally all the info I have. Guy I bought it from didnt know anything about it being he bought it from the widow of a friend who passed away along with all of the knowledge of the bike. What HP numbers should i be getting with a good tune and pump gas? Also, should I keep the PC3 or get rid of it and go with an ECU flash?

If needed, I can post pictures of what the kit looks like on the bike. Thanks!!!
 
Usually 240hp is where they end up. That's being said, if it's really rich that will kill your HP. On the 206hp run did it pull through smooth, or was it sputtering at all? Do you have a boost gauge on the bike and know for a fact it's seeing 8psi?
 
There is no real ecu flash for that bike. Tuners probably have one that is close enough to get them on the dyno without it running too lean but in all honesty each bike needs its own tune and it needs to be done on the dyno. As little as I know, I tried my best to eliminate my power commander. I tried to autotune my turbo with Woolich software and at 90 seconds per flash, it was taking forever as well as bad data being introduced would put me a step back sometimes. The ecu way was very tedious. The pc3 is the easy way to go. Stick with that and get a wideband. You need a wideband. Let me say that again, you should get a wideband. I would recommend that AEM with the datalogger. Rob and some other guys would probably have the patience to do an ecu tune with a gen 1 but most tuners do not. Your learning is severely limited without being able to see the AFR.
 
Boosted - It seemed to run the same on all 3 pulls. No hiccups. Guy said it must be getting hot and dropping HP. Or something like that. As far as the spring goes, I'm assuming its 8 lbs cause that's what i see on the boost gauge. Haven't physically looked at spring. Guy running the Dyno, while doing the first pull, looks at me " 8lbs spring, eh?"

Kevin - Wasn't looking for "someones file" to flash into mine or for me to attempt to map it myself. I understand it's going to need time on the dyno. More just curious if tuners have better luck with PC3 or ECU flashing. I'm all for leaving the PC3 in there, if that works better. I will look into a wideband.

Either of you know of any tuners in the MN or surrounding states? Dont want to have to resort to shipping the bike.

Thanks
 
Usually if you make 2 pulls back to back you'll gain a little HP due to the oil thinning out, and more complete burn because of combustion chamber heat built up.

A few HP drop would be expect on the 3rd pull, not 15hp. If it was me, I would of started looking for problems after seeing the HP drop on the second pull. Not everyone knows how to treat a turbo bike tho.
 
Fueling, boost leaks, cracked header, stuff like that. If everything is right, they always make the same hp within a few hp of each other.
 
Well, sometime after the runs, i did install 3 missing header bolts, and have noticed the bolts for the plenum brackets were stripped out. I can probably assume its sucking air through those holes(will be fixed this winter). Also, is it common for a thin film of oil to be present in the plenum. It's not dripping wet, but is there none the less. I thought I've read somewhere that a little bit could be present in a turbo motor.
 
sucking air through the plenum holes wouldn't be an issue. It's the boost that blows out of them that would cause a little concern. I'd also check the plenum boots if you don't have straps on the plenum. They don't hang in very long, or well without them.

Loose or missing header bolts will can also cause boost issues.

Oil in the plenum is an indication of turbo shaft seal, and possibly bearing failure. Pull the air filter off and see how much play is in the shaft.
 
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Brackets are there and the boots are in perfect condition. Temporarily I used some loctite to hold the bracket bolts into the plenum. Thinking of using longer bolt and nut with some crush washers to seal up those holes.

I will have to get back to you on the freeplay of the shaft. Sounds like i need to take care of a couple things then line up a tuner. Bike only has 6000 miles on it so I want it to last. On the other hand, if the bad happens, just means I get to build the motor and upgrade to a stage 2! HAH
 
Last thing you want to do is use nuts on the inside of them plenum. If one falls off, you'll end up sucking it in to the engine. Best case it makes it through the engine, it will tear up the turbo on its way out.
 
OMG! Wasnt thinkin on that one... Maybe fill the holes and weld a threaded bung as a new mount point. That way if the bolt falls out, there is not a gaping hole anymore.
 
tap them to the next size and use low profile bolts or allen head .
also check your clutch , the original owner may not have upgraded the springs , does it have a real heavy pull and is there a brace on the sprocket cover , you may be loosing hp there
pic of the dyno run would help diagnose whats going on
I like the flash as a background setup on a gen 1 stg 1 , rpm limits with hardcut , pull a bit of timing in the 80-100% tps , injector size comp if needed
 
The power commander or secondary fuel computer will be a much better way in most bikes case of tuning a turbo bike. Most people who ecu map bikes don't do it very accurate at all due to the time factors involved & they normally 'dumb' the ECU by reducing it down to one gear map rather than 6 individual gear & ignition maps etc.
 
Thanks for the input guys. So, i pulled the turbo, just waiting for taxes to send it out for inspection/rebuild. One thing I was reading is about the "old" VR kits had an issue of the turbo sitting too low and oil building up in the turbo from that. If that is the case, is there the option of getting a shorter header to solve this issue? Or is there something else I can do to help? Would also like to knwo if anyone has cut the 1 piece header holder into 4 separate holders so its easier to bolt that thing back up. What a pain in the ass that was to pull...

Boosted - I'm planning on being in Houston for TX2K16(mar16-mar20) - What would it take to get some dyno time with you? Would love to get this thing tuned(if needed) by someone who has been in the game for a while and I don't know anyone around Minnesnowta!
 
You'll have to get a new header, but there's no garrentee that turbo would work with a Rcc header.

As far as dyno time, not a problem, just call me a little ahead of time a few days prior so we can set something up.
 
It's a t3 housing same as what you have. But we're the difference will be as how the flange is angled. Depending on the turbo it could hit the block, or too far forward pushing the radiator forward reducing tire clearance.
 
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