Steering sticks

[GAmedic]

So, quite often I will be riding and the steering feels as though it sticks a little and i have to force it to move. I did remove the factory steering damper since i have a GPR stabilizer. I rarely adjust the stabilizer beyond "0" and I've wondered if I need to send it off to be serviced. Most of the time when this happens, it's when I begin a trip to the mountains or when I've been in traffic for 20ish minutes or so. Before I go through the hassle of reinstalling the factory damper and removing the GPR unit, does any of this sound like bad steering head bearings? If so, what all would I change when I do the bearings?

 

[bigoltool]

Check them steering head bearings!

 

[GAmedic]

Fresh grease or bearing replacement?

 

[fallenarch]

Bearings. They are cheap and easy to replace. I upgraded to roller bearings. Don't remember the source.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

You need to remove or disconnect all dampers and then lift the front end off the ground and turn the steering side to side through the full arc of the steering, lock to lock.
How does it feel?
Go slowly through the arc and feel for any stiffness/notchiness from the center position to a few degrees left and right of center.
Any resistance/ notchiness at all, she needs new bearings.
I fitted new bearings and removed my damper altogether and it was a major improvement in the feel and accuracy of the steering.
I have NEVER had a wobble or headshake since removing it and the bike tracks in a straight line perfectly! With the damper it was weaving slightly in a straight line. Enough to be really annoying.
Hope that helps, let us know the outcome.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Bearings. They are cheap and easy to replace. I upgraded to roller bearings. Don't remember the source.

Which planet are you on Arch??
I would not say the upper or lower bearing shells are easy to remove from the cast steering head at all.
Takes a lot of time and effort to do the job!
I also went for the tapered roller bearings, I bought SKF bearings locally, about $48 for the set.
All Balls also supply them at your local dealer or online.

 

[GAmedic]

I'll work on it Wednesday sometime. Thanks for the input.

 

[fallenarch]

Which planet are you on Arch??
I would not say the upper or lower bearing shells are easy to remove from the cast steering head at all.
Takes a lot of time and effort to do the job!

Ha ha ok I will grant you that Kiwi. I should have said it's not complicated but it is a PIA.

 

[GAmedic]

If I'm gonna take a bunch of stuff apart, I'm just going to replace them. Would suzuki parts warehouse be a good place to get them?

 

[fallenarch]

Suzuki will only have the ball bearing OEM ones. The tapered needles are aftermarket. I got mine from the dealer, but not sure where to buy them otherwise. I think Kiwi had some sources.

 

[GAmedic]

@Kiwi Rider you know where the best place for steering head bearings would be at?

 

[bigoltool]

Most net resellers carry the "All balls" brand similar to the link. Never used them myself but I hear good things...
https://www.bikebandit.com/aftermar...e-steering-stem-bearing-kits/p/22712?m=147537

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Try looking here . . .
https://www.allballsracing.com/dealerlocator/index/dealer/

 

[mjl3truck]

Besides the fact I like the name, the All Balls kit is great. Lot cheaper then stock and the quality is awesome. A couple things to look out for if you are doing them yourself. The races don't just slide into the frame. I used a long piece of all-thread and a couple plates to pull them in. The preload on the bearings is little to none. I loaded mine just until the front end stopped "klunking" when grabbing it by the forks with the wheel off the ground. If you load them too much the bearings doesn't allow the geometry of the front end to center itself so you start to correct it slightly (without knowing you are doing it), then you end up with a weave at high speeds.
This advice came from Karl Gunter who had some of the fastest N/A bikes out there at 235 an dit has worked for me.