Strange problem solved...maybe

[OB_jimjib]

As I posted a few weeks ago, I have been having a strange electrical problem that nobody could solve. All gauges would freeze at about the 7:00 position and stay there even when the bike was shut off, which would eventually drain the battery. All the lights worked normally and until recently ran great until last time at the dealership the bike just shut down completely. They said they checked for shorts and even replaced the entire instrument panel but nothing helped. After calling the suzuki tech they checked the plugs and found that they were the non
resistor type. Apparently the noise from these non standard plugs can drive the
black box nuts in some way and cause all kinds of goofy behavior. Everything seems to be working so far, we will see. What I don't get is how the gauges could stay energized with the key off, don't sound logical to me.

By the way, my new odometer reads 7 miles (have about 12,000 for real)... its going to be a moral dilemma if I ever sell this thing.

 

[Guest]

Hi Jim,

Glad to hear that they solved your problem but I too don't understand how the wrong spark plugs would cause the panel to be powered. Once you turn the ignition switch off there should be no power to the panel. Well hope it works no matter how weird it may sound.
Take care and let me know when you get your new bike.

Ride Safe, RJ

 

[Guest]

I would bet money that the short is still there waiting to bite you.

Changing the spark plugs to resisters only reduces EFI so you can hear your car radio. It won't cause a major electrical failure.

Check your bars especially near the throttle killswitch wires. RobBase found a y connector that had abraded the adjacent wires into a full shutdown short. See his pictures on Labusas.org.

 

[OB_RobBase]

Yes Jimjib, everything that Lyle said was true. First no matter how much electrical noise non-resistor plugs cause, they shouldn't be able to cause anything when they have no power. (your ignition switch was off!!)

On my bike I was having what seemed to be a fuel cutout. The problem was that when it cut out it wouldn't start anymore. The starter cranked but the fuel pump wasn't being energized. Anyway, I took it to the dealer who looked at it 6 days after I dropped it off. He told me my TPS was out of adjustment and that's why it wouldn't start. I thought to myself, this guy's an sugar! There is no way the TPS can affect the power going to the fuel pump relay. Well I picked it up and it ran so I figured he must know something I don't and off I rode, happy and unsuspecting. A week later, sputter, cough, sputter, the problem came back. Dead bike. Not starting again. Towed it to the dealer since I was stranded and he looked at it right then and there. He noticed that the wires leading to the right hand control pod were quite hot. He also noticed some wires under the seat were squished by the fuel pump relay bracket and pulled them out. Then the bike fired up. He also noticed my A-Tech fender eliminator kit and said since it was aftermarket they wouldn't do any warranty on my problem and I should find the short myself. Well I did just that since they seemed to want me out of there and I don't trust any dealer mechanics anymore.

I got home and took apart the wiring harness all through the back section of the bike and inspected each wire and coundn't find any type of cut or short anywhere. Now puzzled, I went back to the wires leading to the right hand control pod since they were the ones that got hot when the bike wouldn't start. I took off the wire covering sheath, which involved removing the connector plug on the end and lo and behold I found the short. I posted pictures on Labusas.org under "Here's my short".

This is what I found after examining the wiring harness of the Hayabusa in two separate places. In some places in the harness, Suzuki had to splice two wires into one or vice versa. Where these splices are, one of the wires insulation is stripped off and the second wire is connected to it with a small brass crimp connector. Then that is covered with one or two wraps of thin electrical tape. On my bike the sharp ends of the wire stuck out a little and cut through the tape and then cut into an adjacent wire causing an intermittent short. I have heard of some Hayabusas with wiring harness' being replaced and I believe that crimp connection is the reason. Since dealers don't or won't spend the time to track down a short they usually replace the harness or just give the customer a BULLSHITE explanation for their bike problems.

I'll bet money that is what is happening with your bike. Somewhere in your wiring there has to be a short circuit. I'm not sure how to tell you to fix it since I have some experience with electronics and love to work on my bike. I spent about 3 hours studying the wiring diagram and tracking down and fixing my short. I doubt your dealer will put that kind of time and TLC into it either.

 

[OB_BusaGeek]

jimjib,
Listen to these guys. This bike does weird electrical things. If anyone thinks that the guages can't turn if the ignition is off, I've seen it happen. Today driving on an expressway, my speedo started jumping to 220mph. Then the FI ligh would start blinking, mix that with a few stalls, clock goes to 1:00, FI and clock alternate on clock display. Anything else you've ever heard of happing happened to me today. I was 40 miles from home, so I turned around. The bike stalled at every stop light. It didn't stall when I pulled the clutch in, it stalled when the bike rolled to a stop.!!????

The problem turned out to be that the screw on the red terminal of the battery was loose. Every time I eased off the pressure on the seat, the bike did something weird (like shoot to 220mph then stall or blink the FI light). So, if an open circuit can cause these problems, imagine what a short can do.