straping the busa for drags

OB_maui

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Where do you route a strap over the triple tree? Any one have a picture? does it go diagonal over the top? I've never used them before. What else sould I expect with it straped?
 
The strap runs over the head of the frame where the 2 bolts that hold down the tank.The strap runs from the top of the Brake caliper to the other.This way it doesnt interfer with your steering.I cut a suspension link in 2,drilled a hole in both of the newly cut ends and mounted them in the top hole that holds the brake caliper on,this allows you to put the hook for the strap in the other hole.Schnitz makes a tie down strap also.
 
Thanks Gix
So the strap sits on the frame? Does this affect your steering a little?

Do you lower the back when you strap? I saw you had made some dog bones with a different set of holes before, What were the dimensions on those?
 
Yes I lower the rear when I strap the front end.I removed the stock suspension links,measured the hole,made the new suspension link with the new hole 3/4 inch longer than the original.I then made another hole the same length as the original so all would have to do is remove one bolt to lower the bike.Cost me $5 and my time to make them.Brock makes a set of suspenion links and Murdock racing makes a Hime joint that will fit the Busa.
 
I have the Schnitz straps, they bolt right on the caliper with out having to make any kind of link.

3/4" in the DB, what does that work out to in the rear set up, 3" drop?

When you strap, do you change your launch technique? I'm doing the Brock mod (this afternoon I hope) and will have to re-learn a small bit.
 
I set my lowering of the rear end to my weight when I sit on the bike.The swingarm completely horizontal when I sit on the bike.I have run the Busa with and without the front end strapped.You can launch harder with it strapped and not have the front end come up so easily.My 60' times are in the low 1.60s with a stock clutch.I dont have the Modified clutch yet.
 
Maui,

I use the same front strap. Bolted to the top caliper bolts, over the frame near the tank bolts. Make sure you run it under the cables/clutch line. When it is pulled down hard, the steering is a little tighter, remember that when you make tight slow turns.

I use Brock's links in the back, middle hole, believe it's 2" lower. I run this setup ALL the time, hasn't bottomed on street, cornering clearence still good.

This setup has resulted in some 1.58s short times, and I need MORE practice....

Dave

[This message has been edited by DaveO (edited 25 June 2000).]
 
The strap can but threaded under the Clutch and throttle cables.The clutch line is steel,you can go right over the top of it.
 
I don't know about you but running the strap from the fork legs up around the frame can't be the best route for it. Why not around the bottom york?? that way the the strap isn't interfering with the steering and is well clear of cables etc.
 
pooh, i wouldn't sugest running the strap over the lower tripple tree. i've tried it, and it started to chew up the strap.......last thing you need is for that strap to break at 140 mph. i tried routing the strap so that the turn stops would keep it away from the pivot, but it kept sliding over them. i found that over the frame was the best place for me, but i didn't like using the top caliper bolts. i remove the strap for street duty, and didn't want to remove and replace the caliper bolts every trip to the track. my solution was to get a peice of 1/2" threaded rod, and run it thru the front axle, then bolt the strap brackets to it. i drilled the rod and added cotter pins to keep the nuts from backing off. it works great, and strap removal is a breeze.
 
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