stuck solenoid?

[johnnycrash]

Let's say for some reason (I'm an idiot) you leave your bottle heater on way too long and reach an indicated pressure of 1800 psi

Then ... you realize the problem and bleed the pressure down to 950 or so before spraying. Then, next time you spray it doesn't work. I assume the pressure overload stuck the solenoid? If it did stick is it now junk? Assuming I'm now in the market for a new solenoid, what kind should I get?

Lastly - at what pressure should the bottle safety valve have blown off?

 

[chevelle]

if you didn't activate the solinoid with the pressure sky high,there should not be a problem with it

i stuck 1 at about 1350 lb's and it was never the same after that,it was tired anyway,so i chucked it

do you have juice (12 v) at the solinoid ?

i think they are supposed to ''vent'' at 1300....but i have had the bottles on my zx 12 over 1300 on a few occasians and they never did....i have heard 1300-1500

i have never used them,but i hear good things about nx solinoids

 

[johnnycrash]

The bike was at my tuners when this happened - so I wasn't there. He says he never tried to activate the NOS with the pressure that high, only that it had been that high momentarily and that it didn't work after that.

I just got the bike home and now I have to deal with a foot of snow so it'll be awhile before I can take a look and start trouble shooting. First thing I'm gonna do is see if I have voltage at the solenoid.

 

[chevelle]

Hmmmm......Not a good day for you. No juice,no dyno run and a foot of snow. I can't help with the snow,but the nitrous problem should be pretty easy to track down.

 

[johnnycrash]

You can post what you're thinking - you won't offend me

I don't think this is a big deal. I had my tuner install that new DynoJet hub for my PC and he may have knocked a wire loose or something. I did do a quick check and there's still power to my TPRS switch that controls my nitrous. I'm hoping it's something simple - but I still have several months before riding season so it's all good.

Since I have it home - I am going ahead and moving up to a 38 jet, and I'm contemplating doing a single inlet with a nozzle rather than those 90 degree T's that I'm currently running into my ram air intakes.

And ... since I'm also about to finalize my gearing with my new swingarm, I'm wondering about going to 17/45 rather than 16/42.

 

[chevelle]

If you are going to a longer arm and chain. Go to a 17 tooth up front,it will spread the load out better. And the stock sprocket will absorb some of the shock on the driveline

How long are you going on the arm ?

What gear do you plan to start spraying in ?

 

[johnnycrash]

(chevelle @ Feb. 15 2007,12:01) If you are going to a longer arm and chain. Go to a 17 tooth up front,it will spread the load out better. And the stock sprocket will absorb some of the shock on the driveline

How long are you going on the arm ?

What gear do you plan to start spraying in ?

The arm is GSXR 600 arm stretched 3 to 9 inches - which would actually be 2 to 8 inches on a busa. I'm planning on setting it up right in the middle at about 5 inches of stretch.

I'm hoping to be able to spray in second - but that will just depend on when I hit the arming switch - I still haven't devised a way to keep it from spraying in first, other than to just turn the system on once I hit second.

 

[johnnycrash]

Update: it was indeed the solenoid. I checked and had voltage at the solenoid so I took it off and ran current across it. Nothing happened the first few times and then it broke free and started working (at least it was clicking like it was working). I went ahead and got a new one - should be here today.

While I am messing with it I am going to go ahead and move it up closer to the airbox - would love to see some pics of how people have mounted theirs if anyone has them.

 

[johnnycrash]

Found what seems to be a nice spot under the tank - using two of the fuel pump bolts. I took exactly two feet of unpressurized line out after the solenoid, so the hit should be much harder now. Also went up to a 38 jet.

I decided on 17/45 gearing, so if anyone needs a brand new never-been-mounted Vortex 42T rear let me know.

Who makes the best billet clutch support/sprocket cover? PS - this **** is getting expensive!

 

[chevelle]

With the shorter line it will hit quicker for sure. What is your total line length from the solinoid to the nozzle ?

Be careful if you are going to spray in 2nd,17-45 is a pretty stout gear for spray. With 2 .028's (same as .040) and 17-42  i had my hands full !!

I don't know who makes the best sprocket covers. I picked one up from canadian mike,just looking for a little more protection. But i instantly noticed that the clutch/trans. felt much more solid. The stock cover,with m/h support must have been flexing.

 

[johnnycrash]

I have one of those cheap clutch slave supports, but it looks kind of mickey mouse to me - if I have to go back in there to change the front sprocket I might as well ante up and just get a good billet cover just for peace of mind.  I'm getting ready to do the Brocks ultra clutch mod and heavier springs also so I'll need it.

You think that's too aggressive of gearing even for a 5 inch stretch?  Maybe I should keep my 42 and try that first (17/42).  

As far as the amount of line after the solenoid, I'm still running a T into two lines that go to both ram air intakes.  It's about 4 inches to the T and a foot of line per side after the T.  (hope that makes sense)

I bought a pretty cool nozzle for a single inlet to the airbox, but I'm not sure where to put it.

 

[chevelle]

I was going to go with a brock utra clutch mod also,but after doing a lot of research i decided against it.

Gearing is very subjective,what works for one may not work for another....I will put it this way. With a full bottle and good pressure,17-42 gearing,if i twist the throttle open at 7 k the front lifts and the shift light is on allmost instantly. Wheel allignmint will be more important then ever (trust me) Because it will be doing most of the steering,until deep into 4 th (even 5th on short bikes) I think i am starting to get off the subject  

 I would hang onto the 42 just in case.

I understand,my line is 2 feet also (single nozzle)

If you have a NOS 13500 nozzle stick with that.

 

[johnnycrash]

When I say the clutch mod I'm referring to the clutch center that eliminates the back-torque limiting feature, not the clutch cushion kit - just to be clear. APE makes the same thing I think. When I launch mine REALLY hard I get that slamming sound that tells me it isn't going to last long. I'm hard on clutches anyway from 20 years on two stroke MX bikes.

After looking at some gearing charts I'll probably try 17/45 first and just not spray till third if it's too hairy. I'm over 220 without gear and will need all the help I can get in that first 60 feet.

 

[chevelle]

I rode 500's....ya don't clutch them too much  

Size does make a diff,i am  160 without gear

 

[johnnycrash]

(chevelle @ Feb. 23 2007,14:37) I rode 500's....ya don't clutch them too much  

Size does make a diff,i am  160 without gear

I had a 97 KX500 for awhile, so I know what you mean. I sorta miss that bike even if I did break three ribs on it.

But on a modern 250 you had to just plain abuse the clutch when you are *ahem* gravitationally challenged.

 

[321CYA]

PM sent on the sprocket