Suspension settings?

[SGVridgerunner]

Hey guys,

After some good advice and lots of practice, I've dropped my ET from a regular 11.2 to a 10.1 without any additional power mods. I really want to get that 9.9 before I pull the motor next month so I can say I hit 9's on a (underpowered) stock motor. My next focus is on my suspension settings.

I am 6' 210# without gear, run a stock-length arm, stock height, 16-40, BT-003 @16psi, and....144rwhp (on MR-12) .
I run a 1.8 60' and wheelies are my big obstacle right now, even with leaning on the tank. I want to run my 16-43 gearing because of the power deficit, but I'm worried that it will hurt my 60' due to the wheelies.

I had the suspension setup for me at a trackday, so the front has quite a bit of preload. I'm guessing that I want to take all the preload out of the forks and give it as much rebound damping as it's got. Now, I do run a strap, but I'd like to break 9's w/o it if possible. I also have a lowering triple. How much should I bring the front end down?

For the rear, I'm guessing I need to increase preload and compression damping as much as possible, correct? I also have 2.5" lowering links to be installed if needed. Would that hurt my wheelie issue even more, or help my 60'?

I really think I can get another 0.2 out of the ET if I can keep the front end in check.

What do you guys think?

 

[dadofthree]

Lots of great guys here, you might PM Teezy or Professor ........ many, many more here. I think you need to slam that front end and drop that arse. Brocks makes a brick that might help the front end stay down. Very rough with stock wheel base. PM Glenn71 I think. he drags a stock wheel base.

 

[card16969]

Lots of great guys here, you might PM Teezy or Professor ........ many, many more here. I think you need to slam that front end and drop that arse. Brocks makes a brick that might help the front end stay down. Very rough with stock wheel base. PM Glenn71 I think. he drags a stock wheel base.

another person to try to message would be goldenchild

 

[fiend]

If your not lowered in the back right now then do it and you should be able to pick up what you are looking for. Run the strap too and your wheelie problem should be as close to fine as your going to get running swb.

 

[SGVridgerunner]

If your not lowered in the back right now then do it and you should be able to pick up what you are looking for. Run the strap too and your wheelie problem should be as close to fine as your going to get running swb.

LOL, the wheelie problem is with the strap. Knocked the wind out of myself hugging the tank when I came down hard from an 11 'o clock strapped last week.

Thanks for the direction guys, I'll hit them up.

 

[Dennis]

Front settings aren't going to matter much with a strap. Without it, max rebound dampening would be best. As for the rear, I'd go max compression dampening and minimum rebound. Since you are fighting wheelies you don't want that rear squatted when the power comes on. As mentioned, lowered with a strap is preferred. If you have a stock shock your total range of adjustment is fairly narrow so you may not find the silver bullet you are looking for. Lots of practice may get you there though.

Why do you think your bike is down on power? Elevation, or is it a stingey dyno?

 

[Dennis]

Also, tighten up the rear spring to give you only 1" to 1-1/4" of sag if possible.

 

[SGVridgerunner]

Great, thanks for the advice!

I think it's down on power compared to everyone else I've spoken to, dyno graphs I've seen, as well as race numbers (LSR speeds, ET', etc). Elevation isn't it because I've it dynoed multiple places, plus dynojets correct for Baro.

I'm producing 144rwhp with 24Kmiles, valves adjusted, compression good, M4 full system, pipercross filter, small airbox mod, short stacks, fully tuned ECU, and MR12 race fuel. I should be well over 160 with all that. Torque drops off pretty rapidly at 7800 rpms, especially compared to other stock busas, which leads me to think that there might be an internal harmonics/friction issue. AFR is holding steady throughout, so I've got the fuel. The bike sat for a number of years before I bought it, but I figured that 20K miles of use would have worn off any deposits.

So I figured I'll just rebuild the whole thing and throw in some power adders while it's open.

 

[Dennis]

Interesting. I wonder if a few valve springs went bad from hanging open for a number of years.