Sweet Spot setup is 540 lbs

dcnblues

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Finally found a certified industrial scale to weigh the bike. 540 lbs, full tank of gas, no tank bag.
-Carbon BST Wheels, and Yosh AT2 four into one. Moore Mafia ECU flash with mild pops and bangs.
-Lightweight aftermarket kickstand.
-I could lose more weight by ditching the grab rail, going with aluminum sprockets and a 520 chain, but I don't want to. The bike just needs a handle on the back. The supersproxs rear is aluminum with steel on the outside teeth, acceptably lightweight, and I think my steel setup will get me 25 or 30 grand in mileage.
-Raising links lifted the ass a little over an inch in the air, rear tire is the light and agile stock 190/50.

My gen 3 handles like a 600, has the torque of a nuclear sub, and is comfortable enough to ride twisties all day long. I wouldn't trade it for any other bike in the world, and recommend this setup for anyone considering buying one who likes leaning over.
 
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…”and is comfortable enough to ride twisties all day long.”

I have twisties all day long if I want about a quarter mile from my driveway. Ever hear of Yosemite NP? It’s 22 miles away and this is just under 60 miles away. SF area is close enough. I rode over here frequently when I lived in SanJose.
 
I'm actually surprised we haven't have any updates of your quest to lighten up the RS yet.....
Its light but not to the extent of RJ . A Stock RS is 536 wet . My RS has been reduced by exhaust / emissions saving about 38 pounds . However I always ride with heavy tools, tail bag / tank bag / top case . Added bash plate to engine from a GS1200 , GS1250 handguards , bar risers , tour seat , fog lights , tip over bars , swing arm slider , radiator guard, tail bag, larger rear rack for BMW OEM top case .
This took the RS right back to over stock wet weight . 546 lb full of fuel with all the above added items . However if I remove case / bags / tools it drops down to 500lb
Remove guards / lights / rack / tour seat it gets down to 480's.

Thing about a RS / Boxer is low CG vs the Hayabusa . My Tuned RS would give RJ a fit up to 130 mph but after that it would be Zero contest . 1/4 miles for both would be similar with the BMW out 60' , and 300' due to longer wheel base ( 60.5" ) and rider aids vs RJ's shorter wheelbase and Zero rider aids , but mph @ end would be huge with the RS in the low 130's and RJ in the upper 140's . RS 9.9's vs RJ 9.50's

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FM 377 October 7th 2023.JPG
 
Finally found a certified industrial scale to weigh the bike. 540 lbs, full tank of gas, no tank bag.
-Carbon BST Wheels, and Yosh AT2 four into one. Moore Mafia ECU flash with mild pops and bangs.
-Lightweight aftermarket kickstand.
-I could lose more weight by ditching the grab rail, going with aluminum sprockets and a 520 chain, but I don't want to. The bike just needs a handle on the back. The supersproxs rear is aluminum with steel on the outside teeth, acceptably lightweight, and I think my steel setup will get me 25 or 30 grand in mileage.
-Raising links lifted the ass a little over an inch in the air, rear tire is the light and agile stock 190/50.

My gen 3 handles like a 600, has the torque of a nuclear sub, and is comfortable enough to ride twisties all day long. I wouldn't trade it for any other bike in the world, and recommend this setup for anyone considering buying one who likes leaning over.
Do not, I repeat DO NOT look into titanium bolts, nuts, and hardware. You'll be giving handies behind the Circle K to feed that weightloss addiction.
 
Its light but not to the extent of RJ . A Stock RS is 536 wet . My RS has been reduced by exhaust / emissions saving about 38 pounds . However I always ride with heavy tools, tail bag / tank bag / top case . Added bash plate to engine from a GS1200 , GS1250 handguards , bar risers , tour seat , fog lights , tip over bars , swing arm slider , radiator guard, tail bag, larger rear rack for BMW OEM top case .
This took the RS right back to over stock wet weight . 546 lb full of fuel with all the above added items . However if I remove case / bags / tools it drops down to 500lb
Remove guards / lights / rack / tour seat it gets down to 480's.

Thing about a RS / Boxer is low CG vs the Hayabusa . My Tuned RS would give RJ a fit up to 130 mph but after that it would be Zero contest . 1/4 miles for both would be similar with the BMW out 60' , and 300' due to longer wheel base ( 60.5" ) and rider aids vs RJ's shorter wheelbase and Zero rider aids , but mph @ end would be huge with the RS in the low 130's and RJ in the upper 140's . RS 9.9's vs RJ 9.50's

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.....and it's a good looking bike too......

(but it's no RJ)
 
So, do those carbon wheels feel different from the stock on the twisties? I thought I read that they do due to their unsprung weight. If that's true, the busa should handle like a 600 in curves. Do you guys agree? If it does, I may just buy some carbon wheels instead of another $30k 1000cc bike. Also, which carbon wheels are the best for not cracking and delaminating?
 
So, do those carbon wheels feel different from the stock on the twisties? I thought I read that they do due to their unsprung weight. If that's true, the busa should handle like a 600 in curves. Do you guys agree? If it does, I may just buy some carbon wheels instead of another $30k 1000cc bike. Also, which carbon wheels are the best for not cracking and delaminating?

Compare the cf wheels weight to Core-Motos wheels
 
So, do those carbon wheels feel different from the stock on the twisties? I thought I read that they do due to their unsprung weight. If that's true, the busa should handle like a 600 in curves. Do you guys agree? If it does, I may just buy some carbon wheels instead of another $30k 1000cc bike. Also, which carbon wheels are the best for not cracking and delaminating?
Even with a big weight loss, a Hayabusa still weighs a lot more than a stock 600.....and a lot more than a stock liter bike....either of which will easily out-handle it.

It will handle much better than a stock Hayabusa though.......as long as the suspension is re-worked, that's the key to a good handling bike.....suspension.....
 
…”and is comfortable enough to ride twisties all day long.”

I have twisties all day long if I want about a quarter mile from my driveway. Ever hear of Yosemite NP? It’s 22 miles away and this is just under 60 miles away. SF area is close enough. I rode over here frequently when I lived in SanJose.
Yep. I can do day trips up into the Gold Country, over the Sierras and down into Nevada and then home before the sun sets. And other than gas, I'll typically only stop for lunch. I really should stop more often, smell the roses, and recuperate from fatigue but covering miles is addictive. I was just want to keep going.

Demon
 
So, do those carbon wheels feel different from the stock on the twisties? I thought I read that they do due to their unsprung weight. If that's true, the busa should handle like a 600 in curves. Do you guys agree? If it does, I may just buy some carbon wheels instead of another $30k 1000cc bike. Also, which carbon wheels are the best for not cracking and delaminating?
I was really worried about the fragility of carbon until I saw the YouTube of a guy bouncing them on a concrete floor like it was a basketball. The carbon will actually take a really bad pothole better than the metal. It can deform and spring back. When I found out about that, it killed my last reservations and I sprang for them. It's absolutely better, more agile, and feels amazing. The Gen 1 and the stock gen 3 are so rock solid once leaned over I actually got laughed at at a track school day at Sears point on the Gen 1. Going through a left right transition my foot peg (feelers removed) hit an inside curb hard enough to actually make the bike wobble for just a second. Later when an instructor mentioned it he laughed and said " the track sees everything!" But he also laughed and said that if I could get a Hayabusa to wobble, I was doing something right. That kind of total solidity is reduced, but the gains far exceed the loss. Here's what Chris Moore said:

Better mod than engine

With the raising links & wheels the bike has gone from something I loved to absolute perfection. MAYBE, Maybe, down the road a set of semi active Ohlins suspension would make it even better, but I'm so happy with the bike now it's hard to imagine. The only tiny down side is that raising the ass does put a little more weight on your wrists. I'm tall so I don't really notice it, but if you're on the bike all day paying attention to your RPMs while cruising home can pay off if you don't like your wrists buzzing. It's not that hard to upshift and keep the RPMs under about 4400rpms (?) I think that's about where the balance shaft stops working on my bike and the engine buzz comes through to the bars. But even that's pretty minor as I like softer grips and have the foam grip puppies over the heated stock grips.
 
I was really worried about the fragility of carbon until I saw the YouTube of a guy bouncing them on a concrete floor like it was a basketball. The carbon will actually take a really bad pothole better than the metal. It can deform and spring back. When I found out about that, it killed my last reservations and I sprang for them. It's absolutely better, more agile, and feels amazing. The Gen 1 and the stock gen 3 are so rock solid once leaned over I actually got laughed at at a track school day at Sears point on the Gen 1. Going through a left right transition my foot peg (feelers removed) hit an inside curb hard enough to actually make the bike wobble for just a second. Later when an instructor mentioned it he laughed and said " the track sees everything!" But he also laughed and said that if I could get a Hayabusa to wobble, I was doing something right. That kind of total solidity is reduced, but the gains far exceed the loss. Here's what Chris Moore said:

Better mod than engine

With the raising links & wheels the bike has gone from something I loved to absolute perfection. MAYBE, Maybe, down the road a set of semi active Ohlins suspension would make it even better, but I'm so happy with the bike now it's hard to imagine. The only tiny down side is that raising the ass does put a little more weight on your wrists. I'm tall so I don't really notice it, but if you're on the bike all day paying attention to your RPMs while cruising home can pay off if you don't like your wrists buzzing. It's not that hard to upshift and keep the RPMs under about 4400rpms (?) I think that's about where the balance shaft stops working on my bike and the engine buzz comes through to the bars. But even that's pretty minor as I like softer grips and have the foam grip puppies over the heated stock grips.
I went the "cheap" route with mine and went with a Progressive rear shock/front springs and heavier oil in the forks.....

I managed to get the sag just about spot on then went out to a few favorite roads and set up the compression rebound....

I think the bike rides a little rough over some roads but it stays very true when in a corner.

I was once thinking of Ohlins but they would cost more than what I paid for the bike.
 
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